sw

a boss at a previous work place had the same thing. ran fine just developed a leak him & his brother pulled the pump out and put some new seals it, seemed to stop the leak. i left that work place shortly after, so i dont know if it was a permanent fix or not how handy are you?

how bout a descent 2 arm puller the one i bought got the pitman straight off, which had never been off before buy cheap tools, what do you expect?

i wouldnt touch snake racing stuff with a 10 foot pole nasty take offs of other peoples designs & work

you do realise the rd28 is a straight six i would have laughed if someone told me they fitted an rd28 in a pathy engine bay.... ohwell if an rd fits why not a td42? so much more potential. the rd doesnt have much before boost comes on, assuming it has a turbo fitted

how do you know the turbo is blowing oil? black smoke from exhaust can be a few things the turbo is a hitachi unit, not sure what model tho.

Ando (vsicks) probably has his t-case lying around now, as he was fitting a 720 divorced case for the borg-warner 5 speed. i shall see if i can get in contact with him, as he is in melbourne. he may sell you his t-case at a reasonable price. i know he sold be the adapter plate for the t700 at a reasonable price.

i did do some juggling of bell housings and transmissions between a td27 and a z24 pathy. the z24 box fitted the td27 motor, once the td27 bellhousing and front plate (of the transmission, where the clutch folk goes on) were put on. we had no dramas what so ever with transfer cases. the terrano was 91 the pathy was 88 perhaps you have been sold something different than what youve expected. maybe a v6 tranny? cant see why the t-case would be different tho. perhaps the particular trans and t-case in your car were from a newer terrano/pathy?? - previous owner?? good luck with another t-case...... what a hassle.

googled td27 valve clearance got one answer at 14 thou exhaust & inlet. funny, same as the td42. prehaps give that a try

for a gu patrol, with td42 no, i only have the specs for a different engine in the family. i might have a poke around and see if i can find anything. why, i have never ever once heard of adverse affects of both raising opening pressure & advancing timing? - (within reason, obviously)

it not a matter of not being able to get insurance. it does not need it, its not driven on public roads. the original poster wanted pics of things he could do, this is just one option of a few. i just mention the disclaimer so some well meaning person doesnt end up the creek without a paddle. if you have any lift and like to find out what the car is capable of, you will rapidly get sick of replacing stock center links, tie rods & idler arms. inevitably leading to trying to find out if there are other solutions. when you dont live in the almighty america, aftermarket support for pathfinders is very few and far between, generally leading to 'home brew' solutions. fyi: you do realise that calmini, hooha and others are just as illegal as a home brew solution (keeping in mind we are talking about steering here). the only difference is someone is marketing the product.

keep in mind modifying steering parts is completely illegal & would render your insurance void if something was to happen. theres two pics here of what i did, as it wont let me link from photobucket.... photos from the stock link i removed the two 'tie rod' style ends, removed the internal plastic bush then welded in some great big dirty bolts. cant remember if they were m14 or m16, one of the two. added some brass & steel washers & twin nuts for simplicity. i did not do heaps of km's with this set up so i dont know how long the brass washers would last - but they are dirt cheap. it seemed plenty strong enough, it did get a absolute monstering during a 4wd competion & loved it. i do agree a bearing welded in would probably be better.

ah what about the old purple & black forum........... :D i remember reading thru great lists of stuff to find your comment & replies to it

another vote for locker i had a locker in the patrol before lift the locker would make other 4wd's with big lift and big tyres look rather drab. however, knowing how to use it gives the confidence to try much harder stuff, then you will be wanting the lift! i know i sure did. the good thing about the airlocker is its selectable. so you still get to try stuff unlocked, which gives you the chance to become a better 4wder.

i did the rear disc swap years back. it works. i had an arb air locking diff at the time. it had a thrust block in the middle so i had to shim the axles out slightly. no big deal, local nissan place was able to get the shims.

the QD32 was in the australian navara. there were R50's released with a version of the td27. that maybe worth looking into as it was made to fit. the zd30 would be another option. with a few key tweaks, they are not so bad

no td42's & td27's are indirect injection there as tough as nails tho, unlike indirect crapota's

even if you made em fit, the springs would be awefully stiff. a troll is alot heavier than a pathy shock valving would be wrong aswell

no sweat, sorry for miss understanding you i can only speculate about a figure but i have, a few times, seen 1600/1650 odd psi quoted, so 115-ish bar

link heres a link to the layout of a td42 injector so i would think a td27 injector is just a bit smaller again i think it would be unwise to start playing with the pressures without a pressure tester

you add shims inside the injector body. but without an injector burst pressure tester i would not go adding shims willy nilly.

sweet!! i like it love the first picture on your page aswell gtr, one very fine piece of machinery. vr38dett

this is the conclusion i came to aswell when i redid the treads for the front top arms. they feel way more solid then before the insert

as far as i know, all d21's all came with mechanical fans. electric fans have massively reduced output compared with mechanical fans, can be up to 1/10th the output. you would also be surprised the difference the plastic shroud makes, but i know with a body lift they would have to be modified to work. i would start by pulling the radiator out and just giving it a good clean inside & out, rinse out all the old coolant from the block and put new coolant in with a new genuine thermostat. then see if anything has changed.

is there actually a problem?? theres many things that cause a cooling system to not operate as the manufacturer intended. radiators are a balance between surface area & air flow thru. having found this out the expensive way, a 'bigger' radiator doesn't always mean better cooling