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i looked into this at one stage, the tool from nissan was gonna cost an arm and a leg. and they were only going to supply it from a local specialised tool place any way. if you wanna get that nut undone all you need is a good pin punch and a hammer. much much cheaper.

talk on road racing just what the forum needs......

bigger the better my friend. go the 4k with the a/c system on the a/c gases heat up & thereofre rise in pressure. air flow helps to cool things down and therefore reduce a/c gas pressure. more air movement the better

Datsunman this has to do with the type of diesel motor. ie Direct Inject or Indirect Inject. Indirect Inject will usually have a TB to control the amount of air thats going in and a small controller to control the amount of fuel going in. Direct Inject usually get a full glup of air all the time. and the accelerator cable goes straight onto the injection pump to control fuel. Directs produce more power and run more effeciently. Indirect Inject are smoother and quieter. as for physical difference in motor. its a difference in heads. Indirects have a head with a Pre-combustion camber, and this tends to be a week spot when running BIG boost. this is a small chamber above the cylender. Directs - the air and fuel are injected directly into the cylender, hence the term direct inject. a lot better for BIG boost. the TD27 & TD42 are both Indirect Inject.

great pics Ryan!

70psi :o :confused: excessive is an understatement

well it involves a spring scale. do the preload nut up and use the spring scale to see how many newtons it takes for the disc to rotate. however its a bit vauge as you must try and keep the spring scale at 90 degress from the plain in which you are pulling from at all times. i tried the proper method the first time i played with the pathy front wheel bearings. having repacked them numerous times since and also already done the patrol front wheel bearings going by feel is the way to go ALSO counting the number of turns it takes to take the preload nut off is a fairly good indication as well. sorry no answers to your question just a bit of thought for the topic

spot on. so called 'high performance' filters MAYBE ok for on road (i'll debate that but im entited to my opinion) but off road with em - not such a good idea. they tend to let a bit a junk in to the engine.

welcome back my friend

Hi Ryan spewin bout the cam.... :confused: howd you go with the cb in the end? you never sent across pics.

F L how does a dial indicator help with bearing pre-load? :confused: are you talking disc run-out? yeh replace that cv boot for sure!!!!! leave it and you will have to replace the cv as well.

keeping in mind that those two screws that go thru the locking plate go into the bearing pre-load nut. bearing pre load must be set fairly close, otherwise you will wear out the bearings quickly or have slop in the wheel. if your putting new rotors on you should pull the wheel bearing grease seal and remove both wheel bearings, clean & repack them and fit new seals. as for the cv's are they making noise when in 4wd? do they have visibly damaged boots? if they dont i might question why touch them.

that snap ring has nothing to do with the bearings, thats what the bearing preload nuts are for. that snap ring just keeps the driveshaft all the way out. if you dont put on in the right spot the locking hubs can lose drive for the drive shaft whilst in 4wd.

wow thats alot work..... i think you actually passed me on the amount of work done to the front end.... ohwell doesnt matter anymore anyway good work

good work manual hubs are the way to go

not sure bout setting fire to brake shoes..... but once they have oil on em, you can toss them in the bin and buy new ones. so penny pinching now may come back to bite later........ $300 to change an oil seal???? can you turn a spanner? for the cost of a seal you could do it yourself - undo the metal brake line, undo handbrake cable, undo 4 bolts that hold the hub and bam the axle stub/hub pops out. the seal just sits in the axle housing.

well a friend of mine states that a ryco Z416 works on his td27t. he also mentioned a Z520, but then stated that the Z416 fits better. let us know how you go.

hi buzz that gold ute is a patrol i didnt think you guys got patrols in the states...

quick headsup: arb air compressors are well...... have a small output..... theres better units available elsewhere. btw locker and irs/ifs = :oops:

prehaps sounds like the pressure switch in the ac system maybe a little dicky. possibly when you turn on the ac systems the pressure builds up pass specs. due to a dicky switch, then once it reaches a higher point it then cuts out. it then wont turn on again till pressure has dropped back down. normally they are located on the receiver/dryer (small rounded on both ends cylinder thats normally black & it will normally have the small sight glass as apart of it). maybe see if you can see what condition the pressure switch looks like its in however pressure switches in ac systems going bad, is sort of the thing that is very uncommon. but it could be a possibility edit: ahhhhh..... one way to rule out some stuff is to have the car idling with the ac on and pop the bonnet and watch the ac compressor clutch. you will pyshically see when its cutting in and out.

pffft.... stupid me completely forgot that we were talking lsd's.

i thought the reliability was ok 335 000 km's on my 88 original 4 cyl motor died at 290ish or something.

possibly a dumb question could you swap out the two side gears & two spider gears? be interesting to see how different in size they are just fyi: 4cyl paths have r180's as well, well mines does anyway!

he he he he performance stuff on ebay HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

interesting point with the glo plugs. hmmm well i was quite sure the glo plugs had nothing to do with the running, once started, on the td27. well in a way we are both right, just guess is a bit of a mystery as to when the spontaneoues combustion has enough heat to keep it self going.