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no worries man, dont sweet it yeh clevo 302 & 351's are sort of common down here. yeh also the point of heads & vavles, you are spot on however thats not the whole story... the heads with the massive exhaust vavles are know as 4v heads. there are also 2v heads which have a much smaller exhaust valve than the 4v. now i have been lead to believe that you can set a motor with 4v heads up and if you do it right it will run alright below high rpm. however as stated above i have 2v heads, so this isnt a problem for me.

thanks for the info thunderbox however theres a few very cluey ford nuts around the office and i have spoken to them about this. they have said that due to the fact im fully rebuilding the motor that there will be no problem using the 351 crank. have also found out that if i use the 302 rods with the 351 crank i can gain a whole bunch more torque for nothing. obviously i will need pistons with offset gudgeon holes. (cant remember the fancy term for this) also, i know this is pretty simplied....., but i have sat the 351 crank in the block already and spun it over by hand, seemed alright....

mws im not a ford person in any way shape or form. whats some of the differences bewteen windsor and clevland, im sure they can both be set up to run well in this situation. what are the good and bad points for each? bit of a ford noob here figured out what heads i have - 2v open chamber. i also managed to pick up a clevo 351 crank and rods real cheap on ebay. i would'nt of normally gone and got these but the price was right!

with a bit of effort and persistance youll be able to straightn her out you may find as you pull the front out the battery area may come back down, if not i would tend to think mr hammer might fix things. as stated above its a PATHfinder not a SHOWfinder thats not to say we all dont like nice cars, just at the end of the day its a 4wd made for 4wding.

well after a bit of hesitation i finally pulled the motor out of the boat. now the motor is well and truely stuffed but as i dont really have the spare $$$$ to throw at this one its a bit of a hard decision to make. i will be doing everything i can myself, to save $$$, pretty much machining is the only thing i cant do as i dont have my own mill. this is not gonna be something that happens quickly as i will only be doing stuff when there is spare cash, now when the missus is crack'n the wip to buy/build a house theres not much spare cash around. she's a clevland 302 V8. anyways a few pics as starters the last few nights work one very sad motor one very sad stripped block worn crank & 6 out of 8 pistons with cracked rings....... the cam is heavily pitted, so i guess it will make a good paper weight now.

clutch master cyl was next the brake booster before engine and trans swap

yes steering box, brake booster & clutch master cyl on the right hand side I take a few pics then..... i was being lazy

photos would help do you have a website to put the photos on or do as most others do, put them on photo bucket then link. as for fixing the car, get those photos up...

now thats a garage!!!!! :cool2:

i believe it was f off, not f word...... yeh maybe not this one

morning steveo i hope the new house is in as nice a area as the old one...... the whole creek area was reall pretty all the best mate!

quick update awhile has gone by now and weve even got in a 4wding trip. as far as ratios are concerned we cant notice any difference. so alround

ah hello Australia got plenty of em'

that turned out to be the exact problem. however its not the location of the ball the fork snaps on to, its the height of it and its also the length of the machined shaft on the plate, were the trans input shaft pops out of. swapped em over and she's sweet as now! still a little early to say about ratios, but we both drove it and it did really feel any different so all in all this is a do-able thing to save some big $$$$$

AHHHHHHHHH another night & no love something not right with the thrust bearing fork................ i accidently put the z24 front seal plate on the the td27 bell housing. i think the ball that the fork snaps on to is in a different position. = no drive clutch out and gear selected or crunching gears with clutch in trying to grab a gear. we unbolted the slave cyl & grabbed a gear with the motor off & started her, got drive. something dodgy with the fork/throw out bearing its all gotta come out AGAIN...... :confused:

well a good friend of mine with a diesel td27t terrano stuffed his manual trans about a week ago, so we dragged it to my garage last night and dropped the manny box. we had a plan, on my pathy i had done a engine and trans swap a long time ago and i had kept my manual gearbox, the box is in good condition so we thought how about putting my good box in his car. now my pathy used to have a Z24 4 cyl petrol engine so more than likely the box's are going to be different. we put them side by side, we looked at the numbers stamped on the boxs - td71c & z71c- DOH! all along we had hoped we would be able to just swap the bell housing on the boxes and wa-la. we noticed that the trannys outer cases are made up of only 2 pieces. so no EASY bell housing swap. so we looked further and found that the numbers stamped on the boxs we had seen earlier were on the front section - the bit that bolts to the motor. so we looked at the back section of the boxes for another number & we found one - X1A#1. we checked both boxs and they both had that same number. GREAT!!. so we pulled the boxs apart to swap the bell housing/outer casing piece. all we had to do was remove the bolts on the tranny, remove the front seal plate & remove one large c clip and then with much, much effort the boxs came apart. the housings were a direct swap. & once re-assembled the z24 gear box with td27t belhousing and t-case all went back in. i know there will be different ratio issues but according to a local very cluey nissan nut it wont be a big difference so there you go gear box mix n match. not bad considering local wreckers want $1200 australian for a second hand box. i assume this would be valid for the v6 manny boxs as well.

does a little green light come on in the cab when you put it in 4wd? do your reverse lights work?

i looked into this at one stage, the tool from nissan was gonna cost an arm and a leg. and they were only going to supply it from a local specialised tool place any way. if you wanna get that nut undone all you need is a good pin punch and a hammer. much much cheaper.

talk on road racing just what the forum needs......

bigger the better my friend. go the 4k with the a/c system on the a/c gases heat up & thereofre rise in pressure. air flow helps to cool things down and therefore reduce a/c gas pressure. more air movement the better

Datsunman this has to do with the type of diesel motor. ie Direct Inject or Indirect Inject. Indirect Inject will usually have a TB to control the amount of air thats going in and a small controller to control the amount of fuel going in. Direct Inject usually get a full glup of air all the time. and the accelerator cable goes straight onto the injection pump to control fuel. Directs produce more power and run more effeciently. Indirect Inject are smoother and quieter. as for physical difference in motor. its a difference in heads. Indirects have a head with a Pre-combustion camber, and this tends to be a week spot when running BIG boost. this is a small chamber above the cylender. Directs - the air and fuel are injected directly into the cylender, hence the term direct inject. a lot better for BIG boost. the TD27 & TD42 are both Indirect Inject.

great pics Ryan!

70psi :o :confused: excessive is an understatement

well it involves a spring scale. do the preload nut up and use the spring scale to see how many newtons it takes for the disc to rotate. however its a bit vauge as you must try and keep the spring scale at 90 degress from the plain in which you are pulling from at all times. i tried the proper method the first time i played with the pathy front wheel bearings. having repacked them numerous times since and also already done the patrol front wheel bearings going by feel is the way to go ALSO counting the number of turns it takes to take the preload nut off is a fairly good indication as well. sorry no answers to your question just a bit of thought for the topic

spot on. so called 'high performance' filters MAYBE ok for on road (i'll debate that but im entited to my opinion) but off road with em - not such a good idea. they tend to let a bit a junk in to the engine.