sw

cant say i can see whats goin on, but it sounds like a bush has gone somewhere in the pump. i havent rebuilt a nissan pump but i have rebuilt a commodore pump and it was very very simple. as far as rebuilding - once the backing plate was off, there was three 'o ring' seals, a bush where the main shaft rotated and and front main seal. there was post a little while ago with someone asking about steering stuff and they had some good diagrams posted up about a power steering box and pump. from memory the pump in the diagram looked very similar to what i had seem in the commodore pump.

excellent score!!!!

morning to you sir! hope your about to have a good day if you were in in adelaide i would let you swap sensors one by one to see what happens. could you try doing this with the vr? ie. the tps, oxy sensor, etc..

hmmm interesting to read evergreen. would like to here more about this, for sure.

code 22 steveo, i will have a think about it tonite do you think its a wiring issue? ive only ever had one engine code twice, and that was basically due to running rich. you used a vn manual computer didnt you?

great tread well my list goes as so: dirty offensive Independant Front Suspension seriously -transfer case is a bit noisey in 4wd, never misses a beat just a bit of noise. -drivers side head light positioning bracket wearing out. -rear tyre carrier handle very hard to operate. -oil leak from front of motor sump area, cant find it.... -just replaced all front steering components, one tie rod end grease boot blown already... after one trip -heat issues with exhaust on passenger (right hand drive) side foot well - needs a sheild. -fragile ac vents stuffed - not much left of them -pathy ac compressor very noisey. bearings on their last i suspect -drivers seat, although all material in tact, is very worn. lumbar support is stuffed. -need new rear pads and disks. everything else ive fixed.....

im jumping on the heli coils are great band wagon too..... cause they are! they saved the day when i had to change a water pump on a td27t and some goose in the previous life of the car had already stripped half the bot holes. interesting point mr.P - same vehicle as the wp, the bolt holes of the upper control arms are stripped. looked at doing a heli coil job to fix it. however they wanted $90 aus for the heli coil kit..... :confused: same deal - stupid grease monkeys at tyre power did a dodgy alignment and stripped the bolt hols. so the fix wil be completly drill out the holes, weld in crush tubes and have a bolt going all the way thru.

please no......... its just as tacky and insulting as the new fj40.......

any brand new car gonna be pretty nice BUT....... i tend to agree with trainman, suspension and tyres on the 01 pathy and your gonna have a pretty capable car, without a huge amount of money be spent. as much as im a 4wd nut, i dont think i could ever own a new 4wd cause i would not want to damage it or scratch the paint on it. i can only ponder how nice an 01 is as a daily driver, but i have 88 d21 heavily modified as adaily driver and i think its comfortable.

well all that ive read on the new pathys states that it isnt too bad basically its good due to all the wizz bang electronic traction control. however i dont think i personally would be comfortable with a computer driving my car off road. give me lockers and a stick anyday!!!! the independant suspension all round is a bit of a downer, but i guess if you wanted a serious off roader a new pathy may not be on the cards. that being said i havent heard of reports that drive line failing, unlike crappy toy$hit, i mean toyota landcruisers, who brake front diffs and have front wheels fall off due to ifs collapsing, before they even go off road..... well they do is oz anyway.....

88's is not the only one i recognise i hope they got permission to use those photos.

there are carb pathys....... mine used to be one what engine do you have? z24 or vg30

agred NOT A GOOD IDEA.

steering wheel does not need to come out! drop the two bolts that hold it up, then its a piece of cake. good point about the fagile vents and the unbolting the fuse box.

i was about to say what mz said the joint on the centre link if you gonna fix that, make a brace for the ider arm at the same time, lots of us have done it. 88 got pics around somewhere of his.

rd28t..... thats possibly the worst motor patrols came with give me the td42

welcome feel free to pull up a chair

pics of said sentra?

here here haynes are pathetic... well if your 87 is the same as my 88, to which ive had the dash out twice. if youve gone as far as you can with the centre console, proceed as follows. i assume youve taken the radio out. first start with the steering trim - should be a bunch of screws on the under side of it, take them out then it should click apart. the instrament cluster front trim - 5 screws, three along the TOP - on the under side of it. & one in each corner down the bottom. remove them and you should just be able to pull the trim out. the instrament cluster. 4 screws should be now visible. remove them and the cluster comes out. metal trim under the windscreen - from memory...... should 'unclick' with the help of a big flat bladed screw drive. dont quote me on this, its a little shaddy. it was a while ago when i did it. once the metal trim is out the way. it reveals 4 big bolts, again i think..., take them out. from memory theres a few bolts on each side of the dash as well. i recall getting to them from either the hole in the side of the dash where the ac hole is, once the fancey peice of plastic is removed or through the hole where the glove box used to be. after this point my advice would be make sure everything is free in the centre of the dash, then work on one side of the dash until its free, once you get to this point work on the other side unitl youve got it out. this is the process of used twice now on the pathy, and am considering using it a third time to find out what the IRRITATING squeek is from the dash board, durring hot weather, when the dash board expends etc. hope this helps somewhat

may i ask what brand of manual? or are you talking genuine nissan, in that case n13 pulsar - i beleive you guys call em sentra's.

wow they look schweeeet!

funny youve got clear corner lights, he has orange ones..... as well as a pretty distinct dent in his front bumper

for about $30. i really dont think its worth pulling the tranny out agian then puttn that sucker back in. anyone whos chaged a clutch in a fourby would know what im taking about.

nothing wrong with what youve got. i did my front bearings, swaybar bushings & radius rod bushings (i think you called em compression rods) around a year ago. everything else you mentioned, except the control arm bushings (not actually sure what you mean by that) i did about a month ago. got her aligned & other than caster being out of spec due to no spacers on the uca bolts the front end has been sweet as, tracks in a straight line and almost zero slop. its great to drive. as for the install you will need an alignment at the end of it. other than that take your time, follow your maunal (take that as hint if you havent got one), double check stuff at the end of it all and you should be good to go. btw ive rebuilt both my ps pump and steering box so if you need help dont hesitate to ask.

if your throwing in a new clutch, resurface the fly wheel - NO ifs, buts or maybes.