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i assume your talking about where the arm comes out of the ps box. that attatches to the pitman arm. if the bottom seal has had it you will probably find that shaft is scored/scratched as well. therefore if you throw another seal in it will only last a short time then start leaking again. you can get seal kits from auto transmission shops for the whole power steering box. i got mine a few years back cost $75 australian which will be about 5 cents american. - so obviously i re-did the whole box. if your check the shaft and there is scoring/scratching you will need to get the shaft re-hardchromed. forgot to mention: there was another member on here, who was in the same boat, with a leaky seal and scored shaft. however he was gonning to try a 'speedy sleve' on the shaft. this may be a cheaper option, not sure on that tho as i never found out how he went.

whats the problem? is it not doing something you want it to do? i personally would not do this for the above reason ie. engine shut down under certain conditions

yeh your on the right track. before starting switch on to 'ignition' wait till the glow light goes off then crank. HOWEVER glow plugs have absolutely nothing to do with how the motor runs. their sole purpose is for starting. i think the deal is they either work or they dont ie you dont have to replace them very often.

sounds like air in the fuel rails prehaps do a fresh bleed of the fuel lines & injectors (injectors while the engine idles) if this keeps happening look at the rubber fuel lines for any old & deteriorated sections of hose, it would only take a hair line crack for air to sneak in. diesel fuel systems run under vac. so any small leaks are gonna cause trouble.

maybe not those needle roller bearings then. have you checked the two main wheel bearings? clean and re-grease?

start by saying never had nor seen a vg30 BUT generally speaking all those little holes will have either oil or coolant flowing thru them. this helps with cooling of the block. if there was only one big 'galley' i would suspect the engine would suffer from 'hot spots'

same as Mr P found Jims old site, hung around ever since.

do you have any mechanical skill? o2 sensors are generally very easy to change, well thats what ive found anyway. i.e. they just screw into the exhaust. so unplug the wiring and unscrew the sensor. coil packs a GENERALLY the same. unplug, unscrew. it just depends on where its located. if you can see it and can get to it then go for it. sorry im not familiar with the 3.5L engine but have done this stuff to newer cars and had no trouble.

i havent owned a manual since the motor & trans conversion. but inst noise as described above the throw out bearing. sort of sounds like the clutch, pp & throw out bearing could be gone especially if your report 'unhappy' 2nd gear shifts.

i had a think about this on a d21 the other day. didnt do it. however my conclusion was you would require a internal bearing puller and a bit of effort. sorry, not really anything constructive, just thought. i just gave up - cleaned it out with compressed air and a rag. then went nuts with grease and my fingers. pushed as much grease between and in the needle rollers as humanly possible.

sometimes i wonder what the point of an 'on-going' forum is if everytime someone asks a 'common' question they get yelled at and told to search. come on, we were all new at this at some stage, and we all wanted to know about common stuff. most of the time thats why people come. im an old timer at this and i HATE, HATE the search function and refuse to use it. everytime ive tried i get pages and pages of crap. as well as far as im concerned this is a common trend for most good forums which i frequent. maybe if people would try not to be forum nazi's and instead of posting junk, post a useful link maybe we would all be a little happier. path j your welcome here as far as im concered, just ignore the 'grumpy pants'

way in the too freakin much, even with doing nearly all stuff myself. good truck tho.

JJ you just reminded me of another 'iconic' toy of my childhood days. did any one have the 'crash dummies car' it was white, and when you bashed it against stuff it would fall apart. but then you would put it back together and do it all again. ahhhh great memories

elecy fan rated at 9000 cfm :eek: gg you wouldnt happen to have mech fan cfm's would you? i not convinced. mech fans put out huge amounts of air. i remember vsicks talking about this years go before he did his motor swap. iirc some figures were talked about. elecy fan approx 2200-2300 cfm and mech fan around ten times that. just going by vauge memory.

scuzz me???? electric fan pulling more air than a mechanical fan??

does anyone remeber the yellow transport tuck or the white transport plane?? i had both of em, they rocked!!!!!!! sly

52" wagon wheels....... now that would turn heads......................

1. dont know any links, theres no local wreckers in turkey? 2. dont know stock height figures, but do a search in here on gjc springs & bobs your uncle. 3. when you say knocking do you mean deep low tone knocking or is it a high pitch ping? 4th gear up hill at slow speed - sounds like one very loaded engine pinging in objection to its current state. ping = bad. 4. ?? 5. the only two real ways to lift is suspension & body. 6.cant help you there. you mentioned its a 2.5L engine are you sure, it probablt a 2.4L engine. know as a Z24. sorry im not really much help.

ok i didnt know there wasnt front end aftermarket stuff for r50's. i now know for next time.

true. i meant that the aftermarket arms designed for our cars already have a fixed value of caster in mind, which on a lifted pathy is better than what ever you end up with, with stock arms.

well i really doubt 1 degree of caster is gonna make your car pull to one side enough for you to post about it. good tyre shops are few and far between. if they cant be bothered fixing something they turn around and spin you BS or say 'your ps box must be damaged' or 'youve got a bent frame'. if i where you i would go some where else. they are correct when they say caster is not adjustable on our cars, thats where the aftermarket accessories step in. but if your not running big lift and are paranoid about getting the front end completely perfect, its not worth it. i have a pathy with plenty of lift and due to still running the stock upper a arms have a front end with much more than one degree of caster out. this does not cause the car to track one way or the other on the road. nor does improper caster majorly effect tyre wear. major tyre wear can be caused by improper camber or toe. this is a very simplised thought but anyway, have you taken notice of the roads on which your pathy pulls to one side. i say this as generally speaking roads a designed and constructed slightly slanted to one side. this is due to the road being constructed so that when it rains the water will want to run towards which ever side is lower. obviously we have drainage systems on the side of roads to take the water away. if a road perfectly flat and it rained there would be lots of water sitting on the surface of the road and this would be a hazard for all motorists. if you are driving on a slanted road and you take your hands of the wheel, gravity is gonna pull your car to what ever side of the road is lower.

those figures he posted makes me laugh

not to mention the loading that will be put on the cv's for those times when you lock both hubs in.

on a more constructive note... oxy sensor & wires should noticably help you can also try the coolant temp senor. the one that sends signal to the computer, changing the sensor for the temp gague wont do squat. this has to do with the computer having an acurrate idea of temperature and setting up a/f mixtures.

he he he - he said milage and pathfinder in the same sentance.