andreus009

Well, its been awhile since I dealt with it so maybe through the shifter hole is the best route. I used a lighted switch to help remind me to turn it off

I had a back-up switch start shorting on my manual and taking out fuses. I figured out a way to wire around it and now use a manual switch on the dash to turn on the reverse lights and the switch on the transmission is disconnected. However, after looking at it closer sometime later I think it would be possible to change the switch at the transmission without even lowering the transmission. However, if room is tight you could take loose the aft/rear support and let it come down some (1-2" maybe) on a jack to give a little more room. The switch should be on the passenger side of the transmission at the top were the gear shift lever goes into it. I'm basing this on my 95 but if I remember correctly 97s still use the same transmission (but w/ fill plug properly located). Also, you might be able to gain access from the top if you pull gear shifter boot and such from inside the cab. Don't remember for sure on that though.

I'm gonna give my two cents..... 1) The existing axles already have dirt in them if its been driven around anywhere with the boots cracked. Even if its not been offroad. 2) Buy the replacement axle or axles as you need. 3) Run the existing axles until they start making noise. 4) Replace axles. I base this on my experience where I replaced the axles for broken boots to just have the driver side boot crack 6 months later. Maybe i just got unlucky. Typically, rubber gets kinda hard and cracks easier when it just sits which these boots usually do for day-to-day driving because you'll only use 4 wheel drive when needed. On another note...get a quote on the repair at the shop. Compare this to how many times you can buy the parts in the case that you did make a mistake and had to replace something. Usually you'll come out ahead even if you have do the job twice yourself.

Thanks that helps a bit. Mine personally has been broken for years but would like to fix it since it is nuisance to have to prop it with a shower curtain rod.......

Guess i'm a bit slow. Where did you feed the fishing line through/to?

When I read converter...i assumed catalytic converter. Should clarify. On torn CV boots. Honestly, I wouldn't judge the vehicle too much based on that. I've seen them tear with very low mileage on them.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33195-parting-out-95-se/ The above link is for a guy who is parting out his 95. You'll see he has 5.13 third member and 5.13 front axle for sale for $400. If you'll scroll through the post you'll see what the shipping was to Florida (i.e. to me). It'll probably be about the same to you in PA. Overall, its a good deal over buying new. I'm not 100% sure of the fitment between 88 and 95 but judging from 4x4parts.com you should be at least okay on the front (assuming you have V6?). The rear I'm not sure (according to 4x4parts.com 3 different gear sets depending on year), but maybe you could make it work. Even if you can't make the rear work your still ahead cause a new set 5.14s from 4x4parts.com is $450 plus shipping. I looked through the thread and I don't where he's sold them. I didn't end up buying them cause I don't 'need' them and have other expenses I had to consider.

Well mine did have an off setting (i.e. fan didn't run when cool enough) and had variable speed on the first fan. However, once the AC was turned on both were on full blast. I would have left in, but it kept malfunctioning when it got too hot. Only happened on the trail cause of slow moving. If had known that in advance i would have mounted in the cab like it looks like your doing, but they said it was okay to be in the engine bay......NOT! No Doubt your controller is better quality than mine was.

I run a dual fan system with individual switches for each fan. Voltage to activate the relay is tied into the ignition so that the fans go off when the engine is turned off (no accidental leaving them on). I run both fans constantly. I originally had a controller but it was mounted in the engine bay and when it got hot it would malfunction. Anyway, the controller was basically a waste anyway since when you kick on the AC it turns on both fans fully anyway. I live in Florida...we are always running the AC.

Had another thought...how about applying heat to torque arm? Maybe a heat gun or a torch? Not sure what bushing is in close proximity but if you keep heat localized and short then should be ok

Are you up on jack stands with the wheels drooping? If so, try putting a jack under the lower control arm and jacking up a little bit (~.5"-1") and try again. It's worked for me in the past. Strange that they would be that much more stuck compared to the adjuster. It's less engagement then in the adjuster.

:scratchhead: So if I'm reading your statement above right the only thing holding the t-bars in the truck are the front torque arms (anchor?) bolted to the lower control arm? Personally, I've had my tranny out twice and never unbolted the torque arms from the lower control arms. I just slid the T-bar out of them (its splined) and went on my merry way. Is it too stuck to slide out? Usually wiggling it up and down a few times will help break up any corrosion and let it slide out. Also, spray penetrant between T-bar and torque arm. (Looks like you may have already done that) Are you trying to preserve the position? I tried this by matching marking, but in the end it just doesn't matter. You'll need to reset things when you re-assemble anyway and have your alignment checked. I know this sounds half-a$$d but I've had the T-bars out a few times and found trying to keep track of the position was more trouble than it was worth. In the end I had to re-adjust anyway cause things didn't come out like I wanted. So now I just put it were I think its right, torque up the adjusters, check the height, if not correct then either adjust more or if necessary unload, rotate one spline on the adjuster, and torque back up. BTW, don't run down your or unload you adjuster bolts with an impact wrench........creates too much heat and you'll end up galling the threads. [been there done that....now my Jap vehicle has a fully threaded English adjuster bolt on one side] You can use the impact on its lowest setting (recommend with lubricant), but once its starts getting real tension on it switch to hand cranking. BTW, Keep track of which T-bar is left and which one is right when you get them out. Your not supposed to swap them IIRC. Also (if you wheel), when you re-assemble you want the adjusters tucked up into the cross-member so that don't hang on a rock. [Did that one too]. Ok...i've blathered on as I tend to do...if i'm not making sense I'll try to clarify.

TBH, the only reason i remote located my oil filter is because I didn't think I could get it on and off with the headers installed. I've been told I'm wrong, but it looked darn tight. Before the remote locate I'd always shove a rag on top of the stater to catch the spillage and then throw the rag away. In the end I like how easy/clean it is to change filter now. ahardbody, you can get several fittings from Amazon to try out and return the ones you don't need/want. I don't even think they charged a restocking fee.

Well, arcing brushes will kick of frequencies that the radio can pick up. Brushes will arc heavily when they get to short and the spring can't keep good contact with the commutator. I pulled the blower and the connector was pretty melted due to the extra current because the brushes were worn out, arcing and drawing more current. Replaced blower and the issue is resolved. I mean the fan has over 209,000 miles on it. So what do you expect.

On the 95, under the hood on the passenger side there is a fuse bank. Now I have had one head light stay low beam illuminated even though the switch was off and key out of the ignition. In order to get it to turn off I had to pull on of the fuses of aforementioned fuse bank. I don't know if these are the fuses you already checked or not so I'm throwing it out there.

Installed new AC fan/blower

I'm curious to see the answer/thoughts on this one. I kinda have a similar situation and somewhat suspect the 02 sensor but have not changed it out to see if it helps. I could see how a vacuum leak after the MAF could cause it to be rich. It would lean out the mixture which the 02 sensor would read as too lean and then tell the injectors to give more gas. Maybe.

I just bought: 'TYC 700111 Nissan Pathfinder Replacement Blower Assembly' by TYC Got it on Amazon.com. I have a Prime account so shipping was free so made the price only just a little more than RockAuto w shipping and the 5% discount. I get it Thursday. This model is supposed to be a direct drop-in and includes the fan part and works directly with wiring. We will see.....

I'm planning to do LED's for my motorcycle. They say they light up about 20% faster then incadescent bulbs. As I recall that at 60 mph this amount to like 10 feet. Sorry i can't find the specifics again, but basically it could be the difference between a collision or not. Plus with LED option I can turn my turn signals into brake lights as well, and still have a ring of amber for turn signal.

Sounds good...I'll probably order one soon then. It still works but can tell the static is sign its not long for this world. Thanks for the help

Wow, bummer...here it's summer. So same difference essential but it hasn't quit.......yet. I've looked in there before with the thought of cleaning the evaporator but looked like heck to get apart and get back together. Is just the motor/fan replacement easier? Where'd you get the replacement motor. P.S. Thanks

Recently noticed static on the radio. It seems to disappear when i either shut off the AC fan or run it at full speed. On the intermediate speeds the static returns. Sometimes a little bit. Sometimes a lot. I should note that my fan sometimes does not start until it gets 'jarred/bumped' by either hitting a bump or by cycling the freshair/recirculate flap. Anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know if this is a brushed motor or is it brushless? If it has brushes then i suspect the problem is the brushes may be worn down or the commutator is in bad shape.

So I know it's not really a how-to question, but I'm curious to know if anyone knows why nissan made this design? Like what specific advantage did it offer compared to a regular A-arm like the upper?

No grades to be had, but we got sand....and plenty of it and other soft ground which sucks horsepower away. I'm guessing they given these (F550) 'in case' they gotta hit a remote area. Can't tell you how many cars i've seen stuck cause they thought they could drive through sand.