andreus009

:scratchhead: So if I'm reading your statement above right the only thing holding the t-bars in the truck are the front torque arms (anchor?) bolted to the lower control arm? Personally, I've had my tranny out twice and never unbolted the torque arms from the lower control arms. I just slid the T-bar out of them (its splined) and went on my merry way. Is it too stuck to slide out? Usually wiggling it up and down a few times will help break up any corrosion and let it slide out. Also, spray penetrant between T-bar and torque arm. (Looks like you may have already done that) Are you trying to preserve the position? I tried this by matching marking, but in the end it just doesn't matter. You'll need to reset things when you re-assemble anyway and have your alignment checked. I know this sounds half-a$$d but I've had the T-bars out a few times and found trying to keep track of the position was more trouble than it was worth. In the end I had to re-adjust anyway cause things didn't come out like I wanted. So now I just put it were I think its right, torque up the adjusters, check the height, if not correct then either adjust more or if necessary unload, rotate one spline on the adjuster, and torque back up. BTW, don't run down your or unload you adjuster bolts with an impact wrench........creates too much heat and you'll end up galling the threads. [been there done that....now my Jap vehicle has a fully threaded English adjuster bolt on one side] You can use the impact on its lowest setting (recommend with lubricant), but once its starts getting real tension on it switch to hand cranking. BTW, Keep track of which T-bar is left and which one is right when you get them out. Your not supposed to swap them IIRC. Also (if you wheel), when you re-assemble you want the adjusters tucked up into the cross-member so that don't hang on a rock. [Did that one too]. Ok...i've blathered on as I tend to do...if i'm not making sense I'll try to clarify.

TBH, the only reason i remote located my oil filter is because I didn't think I could get it on and off with the headers installed. I've been told I'm wrong, but it looked darn tight. Before the remote locate I'd always shove a rag on top of the stater to catch the spillage and then throw the rag away. In the end I like how easy/clean it is to change filter now. ahardbody, you can get several fittings from Amazon to try out and return the ones you don't need/want. I don't even think they charged a restocking fee.

Well, arcing brushes will kick of frequencies that the radio can pick up. Brushes will arc heavily when they get to short and the spring can't keep good contact with the commutator. I pulled the blower and the connector was pretty melted due to the extra current because the brushes were worn out, arcing and drawing more current. Replaced blower and the issue is resolved. I mean the fan has over 209,000 miles on it. So what do you expect.

On the 95, under the hood on the passenger side there is a fuse bank. Now I have had one head light stay low beam illuminated even though the switch was off and key out of the ignition. In order to get it to turn off I had to pull on of the fuses of aforementioned fuse bank. I don't know if these are the fuses you already checked or not so I'm throwing it out there.

Installed new AC fan/blower

I'm curious to see the answer/thoughts on this one. I kinda have a similar situation and somewhat suspect the 02 sensor but have not changed it out to see if it helps. I could see how a vacuum leak after the MAF could cause it to be rich. It would lean out the mixture which the 02 sensor would read as too lean and then tell the injectors to give more gas. Maybe.

I just bought: 'TYC 700111 Nissan Pathfinder Replacement Blower Assembly' by TYC Got it on Amazon.com. I have a Prime account so shipping was free so made the price only just a little more than RockAuto w shipping and the 5% discount. I get it Thursday. This model is supposed to be a direct drop-in and includes the fan part and works directly with wiring. We will see.....

I'm planning to do LED's for my motorcycle. They say they light up about 20% faster then incadescent bulbs. As I recall that at 60 mph this amount to like 10 feet. Sorry i can't find the specifics again, but basically it could be the difference between a collision or not. Plus with LED option I can turn my turn signals into brake lights as well, and still have a ring of amber for turn signal.

Sounds good...I'll probably order one soon then. It still works but can tell the static is sign its not long for this world. Thanks for the help

Wow, bummer...here it's summer. So same difference essential but it hasn't quit.......yet. I've looked in there before with the thought of cleaning the evaporator but looked like heck to get apart and get back together. Is just the motor/fan replacement easier? Where'd you get the replacement motor. P.S. Thanks

Recently noticed static on the radio. It seems to disappear when i either shut off the AC fan or run it at full speed. On the intermediate speeds the static returns. Sometimes a little bit. Sometimes a lot. I should note that my fan sometimes does not start until it gets 'jarred/bumped' by either hitting a bump or by cycling the freshair/recirculate flap. Anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know if this is a brushed motor or is it brushless? If it has brushes then i suspect the problem is the brushes may be worn down or the commutator is in bad shape.

So I know it's not really a how-to question, but I'm curious to know if anyone knows why nissan made this design? Like what specific advantage did it offer compared to a regular A-arm like the upper?

Because it just won't quit...... I own a Tahoe which is generally my daily driver, but the Pathfinder is actually more fun to drive around town. What curb?

The owner's manual gives a limit on the number of miles and speed that it can be towed w/o the driveshaft disconnected. I just looked at it and it is as follows for 4wd with both tranny and transfer case in neutral. Hubs Unlocked: Automatic Less than 30mph Less than 40 miles Manual Less than 60mph Less than 500 miles Having said that....If you want to go any distance at highway speed then you need to disconnect the drive shaft. I have personally done this and towed it 2000 miles(2 round trips at 1000 a piece). I don't have pictures but this is asically what I did. - I wrapped a piece of rubber around the large cross-member that is up and above the differential. Tie wrap it in place. Rubber should be wider than the flange of the drive shaft that connects to the differential. - I disconnected the drive shaft from differential and pulled it up to the rubber on the cross-member. Heavy duty tie wrap securely to cross-member so it won't move around while truck is being towed. - Now since this pulls the drive shaft a bit out of the transfer-case I wrapped plastic (like a garbage bag) around the front u-joint up to the transfer case to keep dirt out of this area. You can tie wrap or tape in place as you see fit. - Back to the differential. As I recall, there is not enough space between the differential flange and the differential housing to get the bolts out. So, I used some washers and the original nuts to keep the bolts from flopping around while the differential flange is spinning while being towed. Last thing you want is the bolt head machining into your differential housing. Disconnecting is fairly easy...its only 4 bolts. The other parts don't take that long either. I just left the rubber piece in place after the first time I did it. BTW, you don't want to pull the drive shaft all the way out because then you'll be losing fluid out the rear of the transfer case. One thing you may want to keep in mind....is that if what you break is part of the steering you may be stuck anyway and even if it doesn't break but if it gets whacked out then you could severely wear your tires.

Sorry, brain fart. Forgot in the later than 95 the stopped using the free running hubs. So yeah in your case the axles turn all the time.

209K+ Miles. Probably more cause the odometer didn't work for about a year. Also, larger tires means I go more miles than I record, but those haven't been on there that long. Knocking on wood regularly seems to have helped.

PM sent. LOL!

Torn boot = Dirt Ingress. As such the dirt will eventually ruin the CVs even if you seal them up now (boot repair). The time frame depends on [a] how much dirt has gotten in there, how much you use 4x4, and [c] what speeds you drive at in 4x4. I have a torn boot now, but I primarily only use 4x4 offroad at slow speeds maybe about twice a year. So for me....it doesn't make sense to do anything until it starts making noise and I know its going bad.

As my brain recalls it is a Teflon hose with a braided SS jacket. I'd really have to check my paperwork (if I can find it) to be sure. As another small note....if you do pick a hose type, verify that Amazon has it in stock. I ended having to drive to their Tampa store because they ran out of the type of hose I wanted here. My fault really for not checking first and being in a hurry (I had a wheelin trip planned that I didn't want to miss)

I clocked it so the lines would run side by side and as low as possible to increase clearance to the header. I basically took every precaution I could to avoid a line/hose failure. I didn't want to get stranded in the woods because an oil line blew...not to mention chance of destroying engine. I'm a mechanical engineer by profession so I tend to overdo things a bit, but to me a bit of extra time and money upfront can save big time down the road.

I usually use just a towel underneath in case I spill any removing the filter. Usually only a drop or two, but the filter is very full so got to be careful not to tip it. The biggest install issue I recall was getting the ports on the engine side adapter to be at the bottom dead center. Think I had to peen some threads to get the thread insert for the engine side adapter located so it would stop the adapter in the right place. In order to get the hose length, I took the kit to Amazon and bought the correct fittings first. Installed the fittings in the oil filter relocation parts and then installed the kit to the truck. I used some regular black rubber hose to figure out the necessary length. The Teflon hoses are very stiff so it's critical to get the length correct. I could've used like 1/4" more on one of the lines, but it worked out okay. Yes, it is a Hayden kit...the only reason I know for sure is that its what I wrote in my signature.

I don't really remember....I'd say it was under $100 for both but that is a guess. Its been a few years. I may have receipts not sure.

I think I used as the same kit RF600 and same location. http://s859.photobuc...ilter Relocate/ Had the lines custom made by a place called Amazon hose. Teflon hoses (IIRC) with stainless sleeving.

Vaccum leak? Check the condition and secureness of the large hose after the MAF that goes to the intake manifold. Mine cracked all to heck and caused me to have some running issues. I do recall some hesitation on a quick accelaration from idle.

Yes, you need the sleeves. They slip over the ends of the compression rod and slide into the bushings. If you don't use them there will excessive play between bushings and tension rods.