andreus009

This past weekend I figured out what happened to my clutch:

In the picture I still had the factory bump stops but later found them self destructed (mostly due to dry rot/age) so I installed these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387A15Q/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (3" Bump Stops) However, after installing them I can flex it like shown in the picture and still the bump stops aren't touching the perch. I should have probably gone with these: http://www.amazon.com/Prothane-19-1311-Multi-Mount-Suspension-Bump/dp/B00387A2AK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=T7U27WZF6EZ3&coliid=IZI5FA83FP6GC (41/2" Bump Stops) My plan is to add 2x2 box spacer behind my 3" Bump Stops. Hoping it won't over limit me on the flex, but if it does I'll probably try to find some 1x2 box. The 2x2 box was free. As a side note, if you should choose to use these you can use one of the existing bump stop holes, but you'll have to drill a second hole and put a nut inside the frame rail. It's a little tricky but doable. In the picture you can see the wheel is touching the fender well. I've had it rub like this while actually moving and haven't ripped a fender yet and its rubbed pretty hard on occasion. I'll try to post up some pics of where it rubs later on. In my build went for a 3" body lift only w/o suspension lift. I wanted to avoid bad CV angles. My suggestion is if you want bump stops then once your are done building it go find some place to flex it hard and measure. I did mine based upon garage measurements and it didn't quite work out, but unfortunately I didn't have a good place to flex it close to home. Amazon has turned out to be a great place to buy car parts. I have a Prime membership which costs like $70/$90 a year but you get free 2 day shipping on alot of items. What I have saved in shipping has more than paid for the membership. Plus I get things faster than I would from most other places w/o paying for expedited shipping.

I had similar concerns with heat so I used heat sheath by Design Engineering on hoses and such that ran near the the passenger exhaust header. http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving It's been on there a couple years and has held up pretty well. If you are interested I can take photo and post it here.

Just an FYI for those of you looking for bushings/bump stops. Amazon sells quite a few that work with our Pathfinder's as well. For the front is as follows: Upper Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9102R Low Profile Bump Stop - Pack of 2 Lower Bump Stop: Energy Suspension 9.9101R Universal Bump Stop Red All Strut Rod Bushings: Energy Suspension 7.7106R Strut Rod Set for Nissan Control Arm Bushings (All): Energy Suspension 7.3102R Central Arm Bushing for Nissan All the above can be found on Amazon. The picture is wrong in Amazon for the lower bump stops, but it will work. It's a universal bump stop that can be cut to suit. Google just the part number and you'll find a correct picture. Also, Amazon isn't always right about whether or not it will fit your vehicle. For example Amazon says the Upper Bump Stops don't fit Pathfinder, but they do. Sorry for the thread jack. Nice job on the build. Looks like you are doing it right from the get go. You might have you have more flex than you think once you take it out on the road. Very hard to simulate the full weight load transfer in the garage with jacks. I did something similar to see how the rear stuff in the wheel well and though all should be good. However, in reality....it'll jam in there pretty good. I don't have coil spacers so you'll have some added push to keep out of the well, but just be aware it may go up in there farther than you think

I just drained the front diff on mine and fluid was still pretty good looking for 200,000 miles and never been changed since I bought it in 97. I know it doesn't get as much use the rear so not as likely to get contaminated. Sounds like you need a 1/2" extension to get down below stuff for the transmission drain. Alternate, might be using an impact gun with caution and/or some heat around the plug. I'll look at my front diff tonight to see if I have any ideas.

The locker works pretty well most of the time, although it doesn't occasionally act funny on the road and goes bang when taking off from a stop. It's weird, can never pinpoint when it is going to happen or bad it will be. So far not self destruct so I guess its kinda normal. I got some stuff from Amsoil that I'm going to put in the diff that is supposed to help with it making noise. We will see. I only have the Detroit in the rear axle. BTW, no grinding to install the locker. I got the version that goes in your own carrier: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/detroit-locker-p-2684.html. Installing the extra low gears in the t-case does require some grinding of the t-case casing and is kinda of PIA. Also, require blood....the internal edges are sharp since no one is supposed to go in there after its built. I'd say the low gears would be my second best mod after the locker, especially since I drive a stick. I have an ARB ready to install for the front. I was/am too nervous about putting a non-selectable locker in the front. Some of the wheeling around here locally takes some tight turns and I didn't want to have to get out and unlock my hubs to prevent bind up. If you gonna get serious about off-roading than a locker is almost a must. It is by far the best capability improver for the money.

To each their own..i'd rather drop the transmission. Less wires and hoses to deal with.

oh this reminds me...guess i should do this while i have the transmission out

1) Anyone know where to get the torsion bar dust boots from other than 4x4parts.com? 2) My ball joints have over 210,000 miles on them. In years past I have kept expecting the alignment people to tell me I need new ball joints, but not yet. The rubber is cracked around them (has been for years), but that seems to be the only issue. I am pulling the suspension apart to replace all the bushings. Do the ball joints have to come out of the control arms to complete the bushing work? Should I replace the ball joints since I'm in there? 1995 Pathfinder

^ Basically what he said. Jack up the control arms. All the way up may not be the ideal position cause as i recall on mine the slid in and out a little easier just below the top position.

Good point on the reserving it. I hear ya about the drive. The closest place I found to rent one is a good 30 minute+ drive 1 way. So round trip is over an hour. Decisions Decisions

Thanks Rob...that's less than I expected the transmission to be.

Yeah, I know it's a heavy pain in the arse since I've done it twice before. Both times without transmission jack. Previously used two floor jacks and friend to get it in and out. Tcase makes it want to roll when it gets free. B, I know what you mean about buying vs. renting but I don't really want to store another jack that'll only be used once in awhile. The "adapter" would be either to store. I may just do the rental thing, but that sucks unless get it out and in all in one day.

Anyone know the combined weight of the transmission and transfer case without fluid? Looking at transmission jack adapters that go on a regular jack or actually maybe buying HF transmission jack. Thanks.

I do! It's my garage with a box fan and some incense for smoke! Works great! I found that if mount a sheet of plywood from the front of the hood going up to the roof line I can shave off about 50% of the drag. Now if I could just get around the visibility issues. Do you think it's legal to drive by camera?

Well you could put a small shim of wood between the vise grips and the mating surface. I didn't know about this when I did my locker. I used a mag base. It worked, but had to be careful not to bump it. Cool info on the gear set-up. I would like to do axle gears, but the $$ is more than I'm willing to spend. I did the tcase gears already and pretty satisfied with that as far as off-road capabilities. I'm not sure how your are supporting/working on your H233B 3rd, but I cut a hole in some plywood (3/8-1/2 i think) and put it across a 5 gal bucket with some sand in the bottom. it allowed me to put the 3rd with the flange down / gears up to work on it. I mean that doesn't help for the pinion stuff, but for the locker install it was helpful.

Is that 1000-1100 for 75mph in 5th gear? The extra symbols make it confusing.

I used Polk audio all around. Rounds up front ( don't remember size) and 6x9s in the rear. Just changing out the fronts alone made a huge difference. It took me a while to get around to doing the rear ones since had to modify the speaker support to get them to fit. Still running factory Amp and HeadUnit. Personally, I think it sounds better than my 08 Tahoe.

Just checked my LUK flywheel. Same as the one you have pictured on the right.

Are you sure your machinist didn't mess up the surface? Maybe its not flat. Also clutches have a break in period of like 500 miles or something like that. I know you are familiar with vehicles so I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. I did some quick math and in worse case scenario your only talk 10% difference in inertia going from 23 lbs to 21lbs. I posted this in 'Rock Auto Woes' but I guess it didn't get seen. I actually calculated a 11% difference but that assumed that the flywheel was solid all the way to the center, so I took a little off because I know its not solid at the center. The sad thing is I meant to look at the Luk flywheel sitting in my garage last night to get better dimensions.

Are you sure your machinist didn't mess up the surface? Maybe its not flat. Also clutches have a break in period of like 500 miles or something like that. I know you are familiar with vehicles so I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. I did some quick math and in worse case scenario your only talk 10% difference in inertia going from 23 lbs to 21 lbs.

I ended up buy Luk Flywheel LFW220. Amazon lists the weight of it as 22 pounds. Honestly, didn't know there was a difference in weight.

Also, need to look at duty cycle. How long can you winch before you have to let it cool down. Some are pretty short.

I was looking at this until I found a line on an ARB locker. Friend of mine suggest looking at 85-87 300ZXs.

Generally speaking you resurface the flywheel when you put in new clutch. It's been in since before 2001 and I'd bet there are score marks on it.