andreus009

Well, I didn't shim it the first time, so I guess if I re-machined then I'd definitely need it this time. The last clutch was put in sometime before 2001 and it's been wheeled hard some the last couple years so I'd be very surprised if there wasn't some damage to the flywheel. Also, was planning to do the pilot bushing again since things would be open. $70 is enough to buy new on RockAuto or at least most of new if I went with the ACDelco one. Anyone know the quality of Sachs vs ACDelco? Even though or because of the Pathy being primarily a wheelin vehicle now I want to make sure I put in good quality parts cause it's gonna get some abuse.

Well, my clutch took a dive the other day so out will be coming the transmission. This will be the second clutch I've installed. I machined the flywheel the last time I replaced the clutch. Should I just machine it again or replace entirely? If replace entirely..what brand should I go with? Sachs? AcDelco?

Awesome! Looks Great!

Made the clutch go bang!

Mounted my $30 aftermarket windshield washer fluid reservoir. WooHoo!

Bought my 1995 in early 1997. Was the daily driver until a couple years ago at about 200k miles. Still runs great.

Box is under the driver seat. Having replaced mine before, just to make the light go off. 1) Do you have disc or drum rear brakes. Most pathys came with drum. 2) In order for the ABS on these to actuate both rear wheels have to be locked up at the same time, if only one locks up it won't actuate. Its because of the design with sensor at the pinion (drive shaft input to differential). As long as one wheel keeps spinning the drive shaft (connected to the pinion) keeps turning so the sensor doesn't sense a lock up. In my opinion its practically useless since with drum brakes it is rare that both lock at the same time. I guess maybe in a really hard braking situation it might occur, but I've never had my ABS actuate and I know I've locked at least one wheel in the rear. Bottom line in my opinion is it is best to drive like you don't have ABS.

Sorry, that is what I get for spouting off something someone told me

yeah buddy...diesel would be nice....and i'm also a fan of the MT but a lot like wheelin Autos better

I heard the FJ production is dead. I've actually seen one of these FJs in action and I was pretty impressed. A lot of technology to go wrong but when it works it works pretty awesome. Transfering power to the wheel that needs it.

What i don't get is when the introduced the Xterra it was kinda obvious they weren't gonna maintain two lines of 4x4 vehicles. Why not introduce a vehicle like what they slowly turned the Pathfinder into back when the introduced the Xterra and just leave the Pathfinder the 4x4? It's still a Pathfinder.....you can use it the find the path so you can get out and hike. Nuff said...its not longer what it was and never will be again clearly.

Wow B, your Pathy is so clean and shiny

Did you drain the transfer case as well? This is where you are likely to make your mess after you pull out the drive shaft.

1) I would check your intake to see if you have a crack(s) in the flexible tube that goes from the air filter to the intake manifold. Also check the lines that feed into this tube. If there is leakage then the engine is pulling in unmeasured air because all this is after the Mass Air Flow sensor. Unmeasured air means air/fuel ration is going to be wrong. 2) If you want to know how it will perform without the catalytic convert (i.e. to check if it is major restriction) then just pull it and everything after it off. It'll be loud but you can do it temporarily to see if it improves operation. These older vehicles only have an O2 sensor before the catalytic converter. (FYI, my catalytic converter is complete eliminated, but I live in Florida where they don't do inspections)

Well, I know for sure my with my manual transmission there is a pilot bushing in the crank. I've replaced it twice. Once because it was bad (making noise when you pushed in clutch. especially on cold days) and second time just cause I was in there for throw out bearing.

Have you pushed it back a bit and then tried again? Otherwise, I might think to pull the shifter out and have a look down in there to see if something looks wrong. Of course it maybe be hard to tell if not sure what you are looking at.

Just an FYI. Warn doesn't sell factory direct anymore. So I'm having to go to a local vendor to get the service kit for my hubs.

LMAO

Thanks again B. By the time I'm done with these it'll be like it designed to be....finally. Of course that just means something else will break.

Stud installer = double nut? Guess not. Help a brother out!

Thanks B. Think the 675-333 will work...just need to recheck the Warn hub flange thickness. I know the un-threaded portion in wheel hub is about .25" [6.35mm] deep.

Jealous!

Well, since my post was in 2009 I was hoping that Warn may have resolved the issue by now with their studs. Was going to ask about it. As you can tell by my recent posts the stainless didn't work out so well but that may have more to do with them loosening on their own, but if the body of bolt had engaged the unthreaded bore on the wheel hub/flange it would have limited the bending of the bolt and lessen the likelihood of breakage. If it is not a super tight fit it is still better than having threads in this area because the are definitely smaller in diameter than the body of the bolt.

Definitely...actually never heard of a viscous one before but the ones I've seen for our front axles have all been clutch type. Usually, they overstack them to make it tighter for less slip.

Thanks for the info, but I'd probably do it myself. I did the rear myself (BTW...an the H233 3rd is a heavy 'B') and my friend whose set up two on his frontier volunteered to help.