andreus009

So who has any experience with these bushings? I recently changed all the front bushings to Energy Suspension Polyurethane. When i first put it back on the road it had a terrible pull to the left so I had to adjust the driver side caster like double what it was when I took it apart. Also, I noticed when I jack the truck all the way up so that the front wheels are off the ground there is a gap between the bushing and the A-arm on one end. It happens on both the passenger and driver side. Both sides (driver and passenger) gap about the same. The gap appears toward the front bushings (of the A-Arm), but you can slide the A-arm so that the gap is at the rear bushing. Here is a pictures of the passenger side. When its on the ground the gap closes up so everything 'looks' normal. I know the metal sleeve in the center of the bushings is bottom so I can't really crank down the nut anymore with damaging something. Are these supposed to be cut-to-suit bushings? Seems like that shouldn't be the case. I drove the Pathy to work yesterday and the handling just didn't feel right. I'm not sure if its related to the bushings or not. I suspect so with the gap, even though it closes when sitting on the tires. I suspect that the bushings aren't compressed at all and that there could be front-back movement of the A-arm at this location due to compression of the bushings while under road loading. Any thoughts?

Catalytic converter? I know mine was pretty restricting...especially at higher rpms..a.k.a highway speed. Just another thought.

I've mostly used it in the transmission and the transfer case and not nearly as much as the bottle recommends. Haven't had any issues yet. I have run it in the engine oil on occassion, but only like a 1/4 of quart. I'll probably stop that all together. Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah, I avoid the whole angle thing as well. Pretty much always work in the garage where it is level. Also, always shake test the jack stands once the vehicle is resting on them. Rather knock it off when I'm expecting it rather than have it happen on its own unexpectedly.

I believe there are two versions of the Warn hubs for the pathfinder. One is the standard and then one is the premium. I don't remember all the differences but I opted for the premium. In regard to the auto locking hubs. Depending on how hard you are gonna wheel it they will hold up pretty good. I finally broke one (and the end of the cv shaft) when I was trying to get up an obstacle. Basically, one front wheel was lifting and getting a lot of wheel spin then coming down on solid rock with good traction. Basically going from maybe 15mph to 0 on that well in a split second. After pulling the auto hubs apart (to get the pieces out so I could drive home) I was amazed at how much abuse they took without breaking before. The Warn hubs are definitely more stout, but like I said the autos seem to handle a lot and it depends on how you wheel it.

Between center console and gear shift there should be no wires.

Well, here we go. I think the Warns are solidly built, but the studs they send with them are crap. Mine snapped well below torque rating when I was installing them. I swapped out, as many have, to bolts but found that these were regularly coming loose. In fact because of them becoming loose I actually broke a few bolts. So it got to the point that I was re-tightening every time I wheeled. I tried loctite, but it didn't seem to hold. Of course, I probably needed to clean the threads better. There is another downside to the bolts. The shoulder section of the bolt isn't long enough to engage the unthreaded portion in the hub of the wheel. What this does is leave the threads of the bolt open to bending loads if the Locking hubs slip relative to the wheel hub. I pretty sure this is what caused my broken bolts, especially once they loosened. Recently I switched back to studs (purchased online), and using nord-loc washers. I cleaned the internal threads as best I could and loctited with permanent loctite. We will see how this set-up holds up. BTW, my opinion of Warn support is.....MEH! I contacted them about the broken studs (years after it happened) and asked if they had an improved stud. They acted like they weren't aware of an issue, but I've heard many other have similar experience. I wasn't even looking for free replacement. I just wanted better studs. Anyway, many have used grade 8 bolts with much success, but if you go that route be sure to clean internal threads good and thread lock with at least high strength loctite. I'd avoid permanent loctite in the bolt case because you have to get the bolts out to take the hub off. In my case I used Dorman 675-334 studs, with M8 // 5/16 Nord-Lock washers, and a grade 8 or better nut. You don't necessarily have to use the nord lock. Probably could get away with and ordinary springs washer.

1) I would assume the exhaust manifold bolt issue would have been dealt with already when the for sure put in new exhaust to race it. Just double check/ask. 2) Looks to me based on the pictures it is still running stock size tires on basically stock sized suspension (i.e. no extra travel)? I could be wrong, but just from the looks of it doesn't seem like much has been changed there. 3) My biggest concern, personally, would be the stock steering set-up. I won't say that it is weak per se, but it does develop some slop/looseness in the steering box with age. it's not terrible but something to be aware. Maybe it has already been upgraded. Well, that's my 2cents. Love the roll cage. Wish I had one. Not that i race, but I do sometimes get myself in hairy situations.

I am relieved you mentioned the Amsoil MTG for the manual transmission, since this is what I just put in it. I've used Royal Purple before but its expensive. I only used cause I didn't have time to wait to order either Amsoil or Redline. Getting harder and harder to find yellow metal compatible gear oil in normal auto parts stores. Not thread jack, but what is your opinion on Lucas Oil stablizer?

Do you mean the center console between the seats with the E-brake? My interior is out and I can check tonight.

Re-installed front differential using 3/8" drop bushings from AC.. ARB locker was put in it last weekend.

I've never bleed my system after a replacement, but I have noticed there is a bleed screw on the damper. The damper is on the passenger side fire wall.

Word of caution if you are going to wheel it hard. You are gonna want the adjusters to be recessed into the cross-member when you get them to their final adjusted position. Doing so prevents them from hanging down and getting hung up on obstacles. Not sure if that is mentioned in the 'how to' or not. Having been there and done that I thought it was worth mentioning

Going to 35" tires with stock gearing with give you terrible acceleration power. These things aren't known to be that peppy to begin with, much less with 4" oversized tires To get things back 'normal' for driveability you'd need to to re-gear the axles which is $500 a set, generally speaking. You'd need two. Front and Rear. Not to mention cost of installing the gears.

Umm..not so. You can change hi/lo range with transmission in gear. I know cause I've done it even while rolling (not recommended really).

Well, they do have local distributors. Check the 'where to buy' link on their website. There are some distributors in Cali.

Nice Job

Hmm. Seems SuperPro has those also, but they don't appear to be split like the ones shown on 4x4parts.com. I checked Prothane, Energy, and Daystar again and didn't see anything for theses. Odd that they all have stuff for the front but nothing for the rear.

Basically looks like these guys are the only ones that make a poly bushing for the track/pan hard bar: http://www.superpro.com.au/find-superpro-parts-for-my-vehicle/vehiclelookup/NISSAN-Pathfinder-4WD-WD21-Wagon--%28Grey-Import-Terrano-1%29/49-130-186 If you go to the 'where to buy' link at the top of the page you can select north America from the map. Appears a few dealers in Cali, so maybe you can get lucky??? I checked Daystar, Prothane, and EnergySuspension and didn't see anything.

is this what you need? https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-rear-pan-hard-rod-bushings-p-2519.html if so I found this link that looks like the same thing http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36535&cPath=54_459_460&gclid=CKiVzuas9bYCFQqi4AodmDsALw Also carried by http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SPF1248K But both these places are more expensive than 4x4parts.com Moog and others seem to sell OEM style but I guess you'll need a press to get them out and back in. Yeah, I know this doesn't help much. Sorry. How much did that want for shipping?

DESCRIPTION MANUFACTURER PART# LINK UPPER CONTROL ARM BUMPSTOP(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 9.9102R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-9102R-Profile-Bump/dp/B000CN5GQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1366634268&sr=1-1&keywords=9.9102R LOWER CONTROL ARM BUMPSTOP(2) ENERGY SUSPENSION 9.9101R http://www.truckspring.com/suspension-parts/performance-hardware/bump-stops/energy-suspension-ENE9.9101R.aspx NOTES: (1) THESE ARE CONSIDERED LOW PROFILE COMPARED TO ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. I BELIEVE THERE IS ALSO AN EXTRA LOW PROFILE OPTION. (2) UNIVERSAL BUMP STOP. CAN BE CUT TO SUIT FOR HEIGHT. LINK IS GIVEN FOR CORRECT PICTURE. I PURCHASED FROM AMAZON BUT THE PICTURE IS WRONG, BUT STILL GOT THE RIGHT PART. MY APPLICATION: 1995 NISSAN PATHFINDER 4X4

DESCRIPTION MANUFACTURER PART# LINK CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 7.3102R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-7-3102R-Central-Bushing/dp/B000CN9AZ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1366633562&sr=8-3&keywords=7.3102 COMPRESSION ROD BUSHINGS(1) ENERGY SUSPENSION 7.7106R http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-7-7106R-Strut-Nissan/dp/B000CNB39M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1366633799&sr=1-1&keywords=7.7106R NOTES: (1) DOES BOTH SIDES MY APPLICATION: 1995 PATHFINDER XE

Well, I guess I'll seal it as instructed. I wouldn't mind so much but there is that intermediate plate that makes it more challenging cause you have seal as well. Was just hoping to justify avoiding the work.

According to the tech repair manual the manual transmission is supposed to be sealed between the bell housing and the engine. Anyone know why this is done considering there is a drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing that will let water in anyway if submerged? Thanks

it's also not supposed to be in 4 billion pieces (counting dust particles too).