andreus009

I have sway-away and they came from AC. Just checked my old orders with them. Dont forget your dust boots

Anyone have FSM for a 2000 Ford Taurus? {Ducks the tomatoes}

Personally, if that is rebuilt then $400 seems pretty good for a whole transmission and transfer case. Kinda surprised that its the same price with or without transfer case.

Should this get pinned or even linked in the FSM thread?

Snap-On

I'd agree with B. Need to keep in mind that you'll probably need both English and Metric. Couple different crescent wrench can't hurt...in case you don't have the right wrench. Some channel lock pliers above beyond the vise grips/regular pliers. Spring clip removers come to mind. A magnetic pick-up stick. Extending kind like an antenna. Include a variety of extensions with your sockets and at least one universal.

Oh you mean like this?

Hmm...FWD vs RWD in poor traction conditions...give me FWD anyday. The weight is where the drive wheels and therefore better chance of having traction and less likely to have your back end coming around to your front end. BTW...a pathfinder....(at least up to 2000) are a far cry from a large luxury vehicle.

I've seen somewhere around here somebody posting about how their Pathy worked in snow/ice with it locked. The nice about an air locker is you get a choice whether you want be locked or not. Downside with the Pathy is that the price of an air locker new is pretty high....~800 for just the locker, then you need an air tank and a compressor. Maybe you can get lucky and find one used.

I have an open element like that, but my electric fans drown out any noise that might be coming from it.

I used this heat sheath/sleeve on my fuel lines: http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving

Pretty sure this is the one I used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-291/?rtype=10

Well, I know this is a late reply but its not a teflon lining. The whole hose is teflon with a stainless steel braided jacket (see H243 on page 50 of their online 'paper' catalog). The teflon hose has temp rating from -100F to +450F which is why I went this route....the hoses run close to the headers in my case. The stainless helps with abrasion and reflects heat also. I have had them on a few years now and not had a problem so far. I explained to the guy at the store exactly what I was doing and he didn't mention any concern about the hoses breakdown over time. Anyways, I'm sure there are cheaper suitable alternatives.

Well, its been awhile since I dealt with it so maybe through the shifter hole is the best route. I used a lighted switch to help remind me to turn it off

I had a back-up switch start shorting on my manual and taking out fuses. I figured out a way to wire around it and now use a manual switch on the dash to turn on the reverse lights and the switch on the transmission is disconnected. However, after looking at it closer sometime later I think it would be possible to change the switch at the transmission without even lowering the transmission. However, if room is tight you could take loose the aft/rear support and let it come down some (1-2" maybe) on a jack to give a little more room. The switch should be on the passenger side of the transmission at the top were the gear shift lever goes into it. I'm basing this on my 95 but if I remember correctly 97s still use the same transmission (but w/ fill plug properly located). Also, you might be able to gain access from the top if you pull gear shifter boot and such from inside the cab. Don't remember for sure on that though.

I'm gonna give my two cents..... 1) The existing axles already have dirt in them if its been driven around anywhere with the boots cracked. Even if its not been offroad. 2) Buy the replacement axle or axles as you need. 3) Run the existing axles until they start making noise. 4) Replace axles. I base this on my experience where I replaced the axles for broken boots to just have the driver side boot crack 6 months later. Maybe i just got unlucky. Typically, rubber gets kinda hard and cracks easier when it just sits which these boots usually do for day-to-day driving because you'll only use 4 wheel drive when needed. On another note...get a quote on the repair at the shop. Compare this to how many times you can buy the parts in the case that you did make a mistake and had to replace something. Usually you'll come out ahead even if you have do the job twice yourself.

Thanks that helps a bit. Mine personally has been broken for years but would like to fix it since it is nuisance to have to prop it with a shower curtain rod.......

Guess i'm a bit slow. Where did you feed the fishing line through/to?

When I read converter...i assumed catalytic converter. Should clarify. On torn CV boots. Honestly, I wouldn't judge the vehicle too much based on that. I've seen them tear with very low mileage on them.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33195-parting-out-95-se/ The above link is for a guy who is parting out his 95. You'll see he has 5.13 third member and 5.13 front axle for sale for $400. If you'll scroll through the post you'll see what the shipping was to Florida (i.e. to me). It'll probably be about the same to you in PA. Overall, its a good deal over buying new. I'm not 100% sure of the fitment between 88 and 95 but judging from 4x4parts.com you should be at least okay on the front (assuming you have V6?). The rear I'm not sure (according to 4x4parts.com 3 different gear sets depending on year), but maybe you could make it work. Even if you can't make the rear work your still ahead cause a new set 5.14s from 4x4parts.com is $450 plus shipping. I looked through the thread and I don't where he's sold them. I didn't end up buying them cause I don't 'need' them and have other expenses I had to consider.

Well mine did have an off setting (i.e. fan didn't run when cool enough) and had variable speed on the first fan. However, once the AC was turned on both were on full blast. I would have left in, but it kept malfunctioning when it got too hot. Only happened on the trail cause of slow moving. If had known that in advance i would have mounted in the cab like it looks like your doing, but they said it was okay to be in the engine bay......NOT! No Doubt your controller is better quality than mine was.

I run a dual fan system with individual switches for each fan. Voltage to activate the relay is tied into the ignition so that the fans go off when the engine is turned off (no accidental leaving them on). I run both fans constantly. I originally had a controller but it was mounted in the engine bay and when it got hot it would malfunction. Anyway, the controller was basically a waste anyway since when you kick on the AC it turns on both fans fully anyway. I live in Florida...we are always running the AC.

Had another thought...how about applying heat to torque arm? Maybe a heat gun or a torch? Not sure what bushing is in close proximity but if you keep heat localized and short then should be ok

Are you up on jack stands with the wheels drooping? If so, try putting a jack under the lower control arm and jacking up a little bit (~.5"-1") and try again. It's worked for me in the past. Strange that they would be that much more stuck compared to the adjuster. It's less engagement then in the adjuster.