andreus009

Check your front sway-bar too. I took mine off and now it behaves similar to what you are describing. Personally, I don't believe the locker is responsible for this behavior since when you have good traction an open diff behaves the same, i.e. equal power to both wheels.

I got the ceramic coated Pace Setters...a little challenge on the install but they seem to be holding up okay.

I have the same problem..I suspect you are correct the spring has lost tension over age, but getting inside the assembly to clean and lube would probably held.

I got a replacement stud at NAPA for the rear. It was the same length as original. Longer studs won't work if you have the acorn style lug nuts. They will bottom out and not hold the wheel correctly.

Nope. No body lift with the 31" tires in the above picture.

You can run 31x10.50 on those without any mods. Minor rubbing on frame rail at full turn. I mean really minor. I was running 31x10.50 on those same stock rims before I went for the 33s and new rims. This is what it looked like: You'll have to add your own mud.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27041 Above is what I did with 3" body lift. Others commented on other ways to set it up. I suspect that you could run 32 with less mods and only the 3" body lift.

Ok, I'm gonna throw you one idea I know from some experience. If your rubber intake tube that runs from the air filter box to the intake manifold is dislocated or has leaks (i.e. cracks) you can lose power and will cause check engine light.

Amen! (Sorry useless post, but I don't like automatics)

x2 on they tranny jack. Had mine out twice without one. Bugger is not a friendly beast to maneuver! Why do people take off in 2nd gear???? First is there for a reason!

What B fails to mention is your other options. Detroit (~2x price of LockRight) & ARB (~4x price of LockRight). In both cases you'll replace your entire differential carrier and swap your ring gear to a new carrier. There are 2 versions of the Detroit available for the H233B with 31 splines, but because you have LSD you would need the more expensive one: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/complete-detroit-locker-assembly-p-5024.html ARB is a controllable locker which means you can turn it on and off. The on and off function is controlled by air-pressure which means you need a compressor and a small air tank which adds to expense and install labor.

Huh? Why so?

If rear main is leaking you should see oil dripping from the weep hole cut out in the bell housing of the tranny. 6 o'clock position. How many miles on the clutch? I think I replaced my stock one around 100k

Hey JJ, Don't know if you need it or if it will fit on your 87 but I have a fully intact fan shroud that I don't need.

My install of the PaceSetters was bit of a challenge, but some of that may have been my fault as torqued them to the heads before connecting the rest of the exhaust. Might have gone a little smoother if I had done it differently. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23496&st=20 In the above thread I describe my challeges in a little more detail. Of course others, have had a lot less problems than I did.

I guess you found replacements. Sorry, I missed your message in your other thread. (ya i know I'm a month+ late, been really busy lately) I just laid hands on mine, in case there is a need. Sorry again.

Ouch. Welcome to broken stud hell. I say this because I had a similar circumstance happen to me. However, I had already gotten a hole into the stud that was just enough to tap for a 6mm stud. So far it has held. Anyway here is my comments: It's hard to tell but if understand correctly the extractor is broken off inside the stud and you plan to weld to it. I wouldn't be worried about the nut getting welded to the aluminum. That is virtually impossible, but the heat from weld can melt the aluminum. So keep that in mind. Also, I'd wonder about the compatability of welding to the hardened extractor. If I remember correctly hardened materials can be tricky to weld to sometimes. Do you know a fabricator shop that does welding? If so, I'd ask them what your chances are and recommended welding technique. Alternate Ideas: - Is this still on the driver's side? If it wasn't I'd be tempted to yank the head and take it to a machine shop to get the thing out. - It looks like you have good access, so I might be tempted to cut a cross slot with a dremel cutting wheel. Honestly, I think the chances of success for this idea may be low, but I thought I'd throw it out there. - Uh..okay i'm out of ideas...Good Luck

I once the saw the advantage of an Auto when I had an open rear differential cause you can apply brakes and gas at the same time without stalling. Now that I have a locker.....I think I like the manual...especially for engine braking on the down hill side. Also, had a case where an Auto stalled, brakes did work well (lost vacuum), and we rolled backwards really dang fast down the hill.

Just to throw in my 2 cents. I've tinkered with the idle adjust screw and it did not seem to do a darn thing

Anyone try to check the condition of the catalytic converter?

Well, I don't have a solution but I have had a similar issue. Sometimes it will do it two or three times in a week but then not do it again for a month or two. Kind of weird. It has been so infrequent that I never bothered to try to figure it out. If there is a way to electrically disable the Control Valve to see if it stop the issue before replacing it. Just a thought.

Your working with two different systems. Grade 5 and Grade 8 are US standards 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9 are ISO/metric standard bolts. I think that B has it right about comparison that the metric 8.8 is about equal US grade 5.

I don't have anything to add about getting her to start, but you noted oil smelled like a mixture of gas & oil and it was overfull. I'd say before you get it to start I would change the oil out. If someone tried to crank it for a long time, but it didn't start the gas can get pushed past the rings into the oil. Also, if the sump is really overfull the crank can whip the oil into a foam. Both the 'gas in oil' and 'foam' can cause engine damage if it is run very long. Good luck!

Well, haven't heard of one behaving that way specifically. However, on top of the exhaust manifold stud issue I have read of some people having found the exhaust manifold itself cracked. I could imagine that with a cracked manifold it might be quieter at the start and get more loud as it got warm (i.e. crack opens with temperature) Personally, I'd probe around the exhaust manifolds first to see if a) there were broken studs and/or if there were any cracks in the manifolds. When checking the studs try grabbing the ends with some pliers and pull a little bit. Sometimes the studs will crack, but stay in place so you won't know if they are broken unless you pull on them. Sorry, I do not specifically know if lifters can start out quiet but then start ticking after the engine warms up. Anyone?