andreus009

Yeah, just thought in case someone else found themselves in a time bind like I was that this could be useful. It took me hours to finally find something that I thought would work. Rob's prices are good, and shipping is usually quick. Guess I could send my spare bolts and nuts to you or B and you guys could be an as needed vendor.

2CE27 Hex Cap Screw, Stl, 1/2-13 x 6, PK 25 $59.70 2GB94 Hex Nut, Thick, 1/2-13, 3/4 In, PK 50 $41.20 This came up in a status update so I thought I'd share my experience. I have used the above successfully in place of my OEM index bolt. You have to oversize the holes in the saddle, and half sphere washer but the material is not hard so a 1/2 inch drill bit works. The reason I did this was because I could get these overnighted, and I needed a bolt to be able to go wheeling the upcoming weekend. I could not find a fully thread bolt locally that was long enough to do the job, and I wouldn't trust the strength of all-thread. On that note I have a word of caution, if you use an impact or air ratchet to tighten/loosen these bolts be sure to clean and lubricate the threads. Also, pause frequently because at this load level, constant fast rotation builds up a lot of heat and can lead to galling which is why I needed an immediate replacement. Happy Wheelin

Here's one link on oil filter relocation http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33095-starter-below-the-oil-filter and another http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24075-oil-filter-relocation-kit which in turn contains another

I saw one the latest editions of Pathfinder yesterday. Wouldn't be able to tell it was a Pathfinder other than the badge. Looked way more like the Murano or some other mini van like thing

One small correction to the above..the auto hubs lock when the CV shaft tries to drive the wheel. The tire can remain stationary and it still will lock. If you don't plan to wheel hard the auto hubs will do just fine. I put mine through a good amount of abuse before I broke one. Auto hubs are nice for being able to put it in 4wheel drive to deal with bad road conditions & weather cause you get to stay in the vehicle and not get wet.

Just an FYI since it wasn't already mentioned here. Typically, you do the water pump at the same time since its right there in front of you when you are doing the timing belt. Otherwise, if you wait for pump to fail you have to do the same tear down again and risk the timing belt by getting coolant on it.

Don't you love the smell?

I made the mistake of wheeling alone, got stuck in a deep puddle and flooded the driver sided of the truck. Ruined the ABS computer/controller under the driver seat. I got lucky it wasn't the passenger side. You can flood the computer long before the engine will suck water even with stock intake set-up.

Yep, If I was going to do it over again for 4x4 purposes then a Jeep would more likely be my choice just cause parts are so much cheaper and easier to come by. However, does seem they break more often. Not sure if that is driver related or just quality. Probably a bit of both.

There is a neat trick I learned to keep from turning the cam shafts while taking loose or tightening the cam gear bolt. - Find a large socket that fits snuggly in the large holes of the cam gear. - Attach breaker bar - Find socket that fits cam gear bolt. - Attach ratchet/breaker bar. - Loosening Right Cam Gear (as facing engine): * Insert large socket into hole of cam gear closest to 3o'clock. * Aim breaker bar towards the 9o'clock position and to go just below the cam bolt * Put cam gear bolt socket with ratchet/breaker on cam gear bolt. Ratchet/breaker arm to go towards 9o'clock also, but above other breaker. * Push down on ratchet/breaker with cam bear bolt socket and pull up a breaker with large socket. * The breaker with large socket needs to hit the side of the cam gear socket for this to work. The closer to the bolt head end the better (i.e less chance to flip the cam gear socket off the bolt head. - Loosening Left Left Cam Gear * Same as Right except positions are flipped and the large socket breaker arm goes above the cam gear bolt head. - Tightening Either Gear * Same positions as loosening, but position of larger socket breaker arm is swapped. If below for loosening than above for tightening and vice versa. It's been a few years since I actually did this so I'm going from memory and figuring it out in my head. I know it worked much better than trying wedge something against the thin housing as I think the service manual suggested.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Florida4x4/ It's a closed group but I haven't seen them turn anyone if you put in the request. I strongly recommend against wheelin alone unless you are already very familiar with terrain you are going to be covering.

Earlier 95 and before have low gearing so they rev pretty high at highway speeds. Always wanted a 6th gear if possible. I was told by an Xterra guy that doing the knock sensor relocation can gain you a 1 or 2 mpg. I know these things are notorious for malfunctioning or incorrectly think there is a knock. Also, I'd strongly suggest looking into replacing the O2 sensor. It helped mine, it still smells rich but not as bad.

Oh like this?

^ Yeah what he said, especially compression rod (aka tension rod, strut rod) bushings. See this: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32546-how-to-replace-strut-rod-bushings/ If these have never been replaced in the life of the vehicle there is a good chance they are bad. Also, when it's jacked up make sure one brake isn't dragging more than the other.

Where do you scrub on 31's? The only place I have had problems with 31s on stock suspension was at full lock the front tire would rub the frame some.

Sand & Mud mostly To the original poster: https://www.facebook.com/groups/Florida4x4/ It's a closed group but as long as you have 4x4 you'll be added. Rides are posted with times and such.

Don't earlier year Xterrra MTs swap as well?

What does it do?

If you believe it's an engine mount it would likely be the driver side as this is the one the engine torque tends to pull apart. One way to check is to put in gear and hold break while giving it a little gas. Have some watch the engine for excessive movement. You might be able to see it yourself through the gap when the hood is up, but maybe not so have a second set of eyes is helpful. Just make sure they stand to the side when doing this.

I'll have to do it again tonight to see what it says.

I'm blocked (by Trend Micro) at home using my corporate laptop when using my home iternet. However, I can acces without issues when the laptop is on corporate network. Go figure...same AV is always running. I can't even turn it off. Corporate policy.

I'm going to add my 3 cents worth here. I've had my transmission out 3 times, so that means I've had to reset my torsion bars at least 3 times. After trying all the match marking and stuff as described the first time, I realized it wasn't much of a benefit. What matters is the ride height (also evidenced by the angle of the lower control arm). As long as this is the same (side to side) you are pretty much guaranteed that the torsion bars are loaded like they need be. However there is a catch. In the original write up in step 11 it says "until the anchor is mostly sucked up into the crossmember" If you look at Slartibartfast's post (12 posts before this one) you see a picture of his Driver's side rear anchor. The anchor is some what protruding below the cross-member. While, this may be okay from a torsion bar preload standpoint ( assume all is level side-to-side) it can be a problem when off-roading if you drag the bottom of the rig over rocks or other solid objects. The protrusion of the anchor/bolt head will hit first and get bent/damaged. Experience has taught me this; therefore when you are done adjusting you really want these tucked up fully in the cross-member. If you don't wheel, or if you only wheel in sand/mud this probably will never be a problem, but if you like rocks then you gonna want to make sure the anchors are tucked. So how do I get them there? Trial and error with a bit of experience. With the truck up on jackstands, I'll set the two rear anchors where I think they need to be (rotation angle on torsion bar) and tighten up the anchor bolts till I have pretty good preload on the bars. Then I drop the truck, bounce the suspension and see where my ride height is at. I'll look how much more I have to go to get the anchors tucked compared to where I am in the travel of the control arms (i.e. ride height). If my height is pretty close, but I still have a ways to go to get the anchors tucked I lift the truck again, unload everything, rotate the anchors a spline or two (judgement call), re-tighten anchor bolts, drop the truck, bounce the suspension, and re-check everything. Repeat as necessary. Will they be tucked the same amount. Not necessarily. My passenger side is a little more tucked then the driver's side (to get vehicle level side to side). Honestly, i think this is due to the passenger side of the vehicle being heavier; therefore a little more preload is needed to get it to the level point. How do I know the passenger side is heavier? When I jack dead center the driver side comes up first and it tilts passenger side. I have to place my jack a little passenger side of center to get it to come up evenly. This probably due to battery and AC components being more to that side??? Maybe.

Yeah, 1/16th per sleeve would seem about right, given that the total gap looks to be 1/8th. I'll have to give this a shot. Unfortunately, no lathe handy for me so miter box and hacksaw it will be. We have a saying where I work "cut to suit, beat to fit, paint to match"

B, did you trim both the sleeves and the bushings? Did trim all 4 ends or just 2 (one on each side of vehicle) to make it tight?

Thanks B. I'll take a look at that tomorrow or the next day. I don't plan to touch it until after my wheelin trip on Sunday. I trailer so I don't have to worry about the road handling to get there.