andreus009

And Precise tell us how you make your torque wrench last so long? Oh yeah. now I remember DON'T ever use it as a breaker bar!

I'm with ya bud. My starting coming apart years ago so I took the whole thing down. Planned on fixing it but decided it wasn't worth it after the pieces sat around for about 2 years. *lol*

Wait till you go buy that single socket or wrench by itself. Especially the combination wrenches. I need like a 22mm combination wrench and 24mm combination wrench. The price of these two wrenches alone cost 2/3rds of a set that included the 22mm. I went ahead bought the set and the 24mm by itself. My existing set was kind of a cheapo brand anyway. I got lucky too because the set included some micro wrenches that I later needed to install some grease fittings.

Only comment here: The shaft to bushing fit has to be really close or the grease will come back at you when you whack the shaft. I once used electrical tape to build up a rod that was close but not quite close enough. 1 to 3 layers of tape did the trick.

Hmm, didn't look like a 'nyloc' type, but maybe it was one of those internal ones that you can't see at the end . I was going to use locktite, since according to the FSM it should be replaced so I assumed it had some locking feature that wouldn't work as well after being disassembled. What do you think? I was planning on putting this all back together this weekend, and don't think I can get a replacement nut by then if I have to order it. I don't think Lowe's or Home Depot have this big a nut in Metric.

I'm sure they will test it when you return it. Hope that is it, and you get on the road again.

Unless the battery is almost brand new, personally I would pull it first and have it load tested at the auto parts store. It may be a waste of time, but it is a short waste of time compared to pulling out the starter. My :02:

Compression rods disassembled.....and the verdict is I am one of the lucky ones. The compression rods are in good shape with no signs of wear at all. Little rust on one but that is it. The holes are still pretty much round. Can see a little wear in the holes but not worth trying to correct it. The sleeves on the other hand are trashed. Rusty, pitted and worn over half way through. It was a good time to do this repair. Much longer and I would have been replacing the rods too. Glad I read up this topic while I was in the process of servicing the truck. Thanks to all for who contribute their knowledge. Did I mention lately this Forum is great!

The loud click followed by the softer click sounds like the starter solenoid isn't getting enough power or it is defective. Did you try to find our if the sound was from the solenoid or some other relay? My first step would be to check/recheck all the heavy gauge cables and the connections to the battery posts. You can run your lights, stereo, windshield wipers and etcetera all day long with a bad connection, but once you ask it to deliver a few hundred amps for the starter it doesn't do so well. Also, a bad cell in the battery could mess up your power, but still read the right voltage when not under heavy load. How old is the battery? An easy check of the battery is ('a') use it to start another car, or ('b') have it bench tested at the local auto parts store. Batteries do sometimes go bad without much warning. Another battery check that is even easier than the first two. Put a volt meter on the + and - of the battery, while watching the voltmeter have someone try to start the truck. If the voltage drops significantly ( I want to say below 10V) then it is good chance your battery is toast. BTW, typically an unloaded charged battery will read around 12.5V-13V. Good luck. Chasing electrical problems can be a real PIA!

You could put an eye out like that!

I would tend to agree considering that the sway bar bushings look a lot worse than the tension rod bushings. However, the tension rod performs a more critical function. I decided to go with Moog ones, and got front sway bar bushings at the same time. We will see how they last. I plan on pulling the tension rod apart tonight, to inspect for the classic erosion/wear damage. Looks like torsion bar removal is required to get a socket on the big nut that holds it to the frame?

How squeaky are the polyurethane bushings? I need to replace the bushings on the tension/compression rod of the LCA. I'm debating between the Energy Suspension ones or the MOOG ones. The MOOG ones are advertised as a thermoplastic that doesn't squeak like polyurethane bushings. Any opinions on these two brands? I read in other threads there is a special grease to use with the polyurethane bushings for the squeaky issue. I assume this is applied at the metal to poly interface. Do you have to reapply it periodically?

I haven't had the heat issue with the original exhaust, but I just installed PaceSetter headers so I will be paying attention for this. Now onto the quality of the PaceSetters (which is what 4x4parts.com supplies). I had several fitment issues with them. 1) Had to cut the forward corner of the driver's side flange to get it past the AC compressor bracket. 2) Once bolted to the engine the ends where spaced too far apart to just simply slip on the crossover pipe. I ended up using a racheting hold down strap to pull the two ends together. 3) Even after i got the crossover pipe to go on, the flange to connect the rest of the exhaust was too far to the rear to get the rest of the exhaust in. Remedied this by cutting a 1/2" inch off both the passenger side header end, and the passenger side of the crossover pipe. This allowed the crossover pipe further forward. (I might not have had to cut the ends if the angles of the crossover pipe had been better, but as it was the crossover pipe bound up before it could bottom on the header end) Even with the cutting mod, i had to use some longer bolts in some places (to be able to pull exhaust pieces together), and relocate the muffler support that connects to the driver side frame rail. Relocation of the support was done by drilling a couple new holes in the support which allowed it to go to the rear ~1/2". Oh yeah, one more thing....the flange on the crossover pipe for connect the rest of the exhaust was angled upward which tried to push everything up against the body. I ended up assembling everything loosely at first, and tightened from the rear of the vehicle up to the crossover flange. The weight of the exhaust and the support from the brackets helped pull the flange down (header end) and kept it from touching the body. Additional information: My headers came with two ports on center exhaust pipe on the drivers side. The smaller one fit the EGR pipe and the larger one needed a plug. The plug thread size was 24mm x 1.5 . The thread size for the smaller one was 22mm x 1.5 (in case of EGR elimination). Order plugs from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/. The EGR tube didn't fit directly, but with a little heat from a propane torch and some bending I got to line up correctly. IMO, if i had to do it again I would go with Thorleys to hopefully avoid these fitment issues. People who have installed Thorleys can chime in here.

I would think it would not be too bad. Mine's a 95 and I don't think it ever had the resonantor. Anyhow, mine only got annoyingly loud after taking the catalytic converters out of the system. (We can get away with that in Florida because no emissions and no vehicle inspections)

Hmm....In theory it is easy. In reality it can be another story. I had my exhaust out because I was upgrading to headers, in fact that is the reason I had to do the oil filter relocation. Doing it with the stock exhaust installed, probably a Royal PITA. My Major challenges: Port Orientation - The oil filter relocation kits are multi-make/model fit so they come with 3 or 4 thread inserts that adapt the thread of the adapter to the thread of your oil filter threaded tube on the engine. The ports on my adapter were offset from center, so depending on how far I threaded the thread insert into the adapter controlled where the ports were located (left, right, top, bottom or somewhere in between) when the seal final touched the block. I wanted my ports at 6 o'clock because this was the farthest from the headers. The problem was that there was no locking mechanism (like a set screw) to keep the thread insert from rotating (i.e, threading deeper into the adapter) while threading the adapter onto the engine. I finally ended up prick punching the threads to keep the thread insert from turning in the adapter itself. Of course, I didn't get it right the first time, nor the second, nor the third. I think it took like at least 4 or 5 tries. Of course now that I had pricked punched the threads, it wasn't possible to rotate the thread insert by hand. In order rotate the thread insert, I used a sharp chisel and hammer to catch the top edge of the thread insert and drive in the direction I wanted to go. After I had rotated the thread insert where I thought I wanted it to be, I would prick punch the threads again. (The idea is to make your prick punch as light/weak as possible to be able to rotate it again if you need to, but still enough that thread insert doesn't turn while threading onto the engine.) Once I got things oriented properly I made the prick punch more solid/deeper. Also, I ground smooth with a dremel the location where I was engaging the chisel to rotate it. Tubing/Hose - The kit I got didn't come with the hoses, but it did come with barbed fittings. I didn't like the idea that the life blood of my engine was in the hands of barbed fittings and hose clamps. (I know other people have done it without any issue, but a racing friend of mine had some bad experience with that kind of arrangement) I chose to go the bullet proof route. I had custom hydraulic lines made using teflon tubing (500F rating) with stainless steel braided cover. I tried to estimate the hose length I would need using the barbed fittings and a couple of pieces of 1/2" heater hose. Seemed good in theory. I took what I thought was my correct length hoses to the Hydraulic hose place, talked it over with the guy for a bit, and then was ready to make the lines. However, they were out of the tubing I wanted which turned out to be a blessing. Since I had time I bought a couple of the fittings I thought I would need, and installed them on the engine block adapter, and the oil filter holder and tested (for length) my heater hose I had cut. Boy was I way way off. I had probably 6" too much hose. Moral of the story: If you are going to do a custom line with fittings, buy the fittings first, install them on your hardware, and THEN use a dummy hose for measuring the correct length. Also, you may want to buy a couple different angles for the end fittings (to find the combination of ones that are the best fit), and for ease of install (especially if it is a stiff hose) swivels on both ends. Knowing what I know now I could probably do it in half or 1/3 of the time. Hope I didn't rattle on too much.

Got my oil filter relocation done, so I thought I throw up some pictures. The kit I used was the Hayden 291 which is available from Summit Racing. I picked this one over the other versions because it had side ports which is what I thought I was going to use. However, it turned out I ended up using the ports on top instead. I had the lines custom made by Amazon Hose and Rubber which is local to Orlando, Tampa, & Chicago. They are Teflon tubing with a stainless braided cover. Expensive, but no worries about heat. If anyone wants more details, post a reply and I can write up the steps/details I went through.

That is a wonderful sight to behold! Congrats to all for a job well done. Go NPORA members!

I'm in the process of installing my pacesetter headers and have discovered the need for the oil filter relocation kit. I've read this topic pretty thoroughly but don't see any description or pictures of how to route the lines safely around the headers. Would greatly appreciate any pics.

Second the grade 8 bolts on the warn hubs. I broke the studs on install at the torque level warn specified. BTW, I used stainless since others rust and dont look so good.

Where did the new t-stat come from? If not OEM, I'd consider replacing it with OEM.

Looks familiar. I think I've done that one too, but my split wasn't as big so I was still spraying water when I had temperature issues.

I'll just throw this out. After hubs are locked I've shifted back and forth from 2H to 4H on the interstate at 70+ mph. If you are going straight, and no odd wheel size there should be no reason that this can't be done. The key is that everything is turning at the same speed. Oh yeah, usually do the shifts at constant speed/throttle. No need to be applying extra torque while sliding gears around. Leaving the hubs locked when in 2H causes a binding in the front end when making turns. The sharper the turn(i.e., pulling into a parking space) the more the binding. Definitely doesn't feel good, so if I've been running 4H on the road I stop and unlock before trying to make an tight corners.

Well, if they won't make one for me, I will probably try to make one myself. The bore is not a straight through though. It's more like a 1/4" deep thread. The one my friend installed on his Frontier was about 1/2" thick with about 4 threads. Any decent machine shop should be able to make one for not too much. The theory seems good about improving atomization of the fuel, but I must admit I am semi-skeptical about how good the "vortex" would be all the way to the cylinders. Also, i could see where this arrangement could actually have adverse effects at the higher flow rates of higher rpms. For $100 I was willing to give it a shot, and send it back if it didn't seem to improve things. The ultimate proof would be in dyno testing, but the butt dyno doesn't work all that bad if you know your rig. Thanks for all the feedback. This forum is great

I have a friend with a 2004 Nissan Frontier. He just installed a throttle body spacer on his intake, and said he noticed an improvement in torque between 2000-3000 rpm. The spacer is made by Airaid (www.airaid.com), and costs about $100. Well, they don't make one for the 1990-1995 Pathfinders, but I figure if they get multiple requests by us enthusiasts they'll come up with one. So if you are interested and want them to produce this product for us 90-95er's email them at airaidinfo@airaid.com and show your interest in this product. Thanks.

Don't forget the long extensions and a universal joint to get to the top bolts of the transmission. I've done this job twice so far. I always say I'm not going to do it again, but that I look at the shop cost and there I am under it again.