andreus009

Well, I don't have a solution but I have had a similar issue. Sometimes it will do it two or three times in a week but then not do it again for a month or two. Kind of weird. It has been so infrequent that I never bothered to try to figure it out. If there is a way to electrically disable the Control Valve to see if it stop the issue before replacing it. Just a thought.

Your working with two different systems. Grade 5 and Grade 8 are US standards 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9 are ISO/metric standard bolts. I think that B has it right about comparison that the metric 8.8 is about equal US grade 5.

i've been known to drive like that

Bans nismo...Why? Do we really have to have a reason?

Solar Chargers? How do you know if it is working for real? I left my Pathfinder sit for 2.5 months while I was in China. Didn't expect to be gone that long, but it started right away when I got back. Yes, I was amazed but goes to show that a good battery will hold charge for a long time if there is no drain on it.

I don't have anything to add about getting her to start, but you noted oil smelled like a mixture of gas & oil and it was overfull. I'd say before you get it to start I would change the oil out. If someone tried to crank it for a long time, but it didn't start the gas can get pushed past the rings into the oil. Also, if the sump is really overfull the crank can whip the oil into a foam. Both the 'gas in oil' and 'foam' can cause engine damage if it is run very long. Good luck!

Bans nunya cuz he don't think its no one else business.

The other thing that makes B (and others crabby) is if you don't search before you ask a question. So...say ya searched first before (even if you didn't) you post your question *lol* Welcome! I'm jealous about the Nissan dealership hook up....I already get enough heat with being Florida so I don't need the desert

Well, haven't heard of one behaving that way specifically. However, on top of the exhaust manifold stud issue I have read of some people having found the exhaust manifold itself cracked. I could imagine that with a cracked manifold it might be quieter at the start and get more loud as it got warm (i.e. crack opens with temperature) Personally, I'd probe around the exhaust manifolds first to see if a) there were broken studs and/or if there were any cracks in the manifolds. When checking the studs try grabbing the ends with some pliers and pull a little bit. Sometimes the studs will crack, but stay in place so you won't know if they are broken unless you pull on them. Sorry, I do not specifically know if lifters can start out quiet but then start ticking after the engine warms up. Anyone?

Oops..guess i was going by what the dealer guy told me when I bought the truck 1997. Doh!

I have to second this question. The tick caused by broken exhaust manifold studs can sound similar to a bad lifter tick. Hate to see you tear into the lifters and not solve your problem. BTW, in case you haven't read it yet. The broken exhaust manifold stud issue is common issue to the vehicles thru 95. How long does the ticking sound last? If you turn it off and immediately restart does it quit? (I have a lifter tick at start up but usually goes away quickly. Sometimes it will hang in there for a little longer, so I'll shut down and then restart which has so far always stopped the tick) Umm...to ask the obvious....did you get the gaskets too? Also, have magnetic pickup wand handy. I dropped a lifter down in the head when I did a car I had. Thankfully, I was able to recover it with a magnetic tipped wand. Hope it doesn't happen to you.

Cool. I've been thinking about doing The E-fan to avoid the radiator drop for the body lift. Plus I'd like some additional cooling at trail speed, mine tends to run a little hot. I've heard you need to upgrade the alternator if you do the electric fan. Is that true? There a lot of different types of electric fans available. Anyone know the minimum CFM fan to use? Thanks in advance. (note: no I haven't searched the subject yet, but plan to in the near future so don't me) Oh yeah, JJ, in your diagram what is the box with the numbers in it?

Ok...I'm going to try to understand before I open my mouth. "The problem im having with the insurance is the claims adjuster told me that it is going to be totaled at $2290 or I can take a check for $2000" I understand by this statement that if you take the check for $2000 you still get to keep the truck? Otherwise you get $2290 and the insurance company keeps it. I'll assume you are correct in that there is more than $2000 worth of stuff missing. Do you have receipts for your aftermarket stuff that is missing? Insurance adjusters are used to dealing with "normal" cars with factory options. When you get into aftermarket stuff, they are basically clueless so the burden falls on you to provide the info to what the value of the added parts is. I know once I had get the value upp'd on a vehicle that got totaled but had recently had a lot of work done to it. I had the receipts to prove the work had been completed. In your case, it's aftermarket parts that you will want to replace. If you don't have the receipts, then I'd put together a list of the items missing and their replacement value. Include with each item the source for your replacement value. It may do no good at all depending on the adjuster and the insurance company rules. However, it's only a few hours work to make the list and could get you so more $$.

There are those that recommend several some if not all of those parts. Some of those even post here ;-)

Didn't know this was available until a friend of mine pointed it out for me. http://www.courtesyparts.com/bundle-timing-belt-kit-pathfinder-wd21-p-568787.html?cPath=5572_7666_7667& Kind of handy for almost one lump sum order. Of course you still need to order the hoses, but this gets the major components. All available kits: http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/maintenance/timing-belt-kits/-c-5572_7666_7667.html (Note to Admins & Mods. I also posted this in the product review section so it won't get lost, cause eventually it will slip way down on the list in the Garage. Sorry for the double post)

Good call B IIRC the recommend interval is every 70K miles, so technically it should have had its 2nd belt installed by now.

The ones that break are completely broken; as in you can go in with a pair of pliers and pull them out. The remaining studs will hold the manifold in place and probably will last a long time, but eventually another one may break at which time it will probably get louder. Like I said before I ran 4 years plus with broken studs. Mine started out the same way as your friends; in that you would hear when it was cold but once it warmed up it would quite down. However, about a year before I put the headers on it go so you could hear the exhaust ticky/leaky sound all the time. I suspect an additional stud broke, or could be just one of the manifolds warped. The short story IMHO is that he can run a long time with his current condition without it being a serious issue. If you want to be sure of the situation, pull off the heat shields, and try pulling gently on the studs with some pliers. I say to pull on them, because sometimes even if they break they will stay in place and it won't look like it is broken.

Out of curiosity how much did you have to cut and how did you cut it?

I had the same experience over 10 years ago when I bought my Pathy. 4runners way too pricey for what they are, not too mention most of the ones at that time had the sagging rear end issue. I don't know much about problem #1, but personally I'd start at the wiring at the sender under the hood. On problem #2, there is a 99.9% chance that it is 1 or more broken exhaust manifold studs. It's not going to fall apart, but may get worse over time. I ran mine with broken studs (1 passenger side / 2 drive side) for about 4 years, at the end it was getting so you could hear it even when it was warm. Repair thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196

Bans Kingman for being right about Obama. Dang and I really thought things would get better.

2nd that. The first time I did the T-belt I lined up the lines like I was suppose to and then cracked the crank several times. The lines never lined up again. I freaked a little at the time, but knew I had installed it correctly so I put it all back together and it ran fine. So B is right in that the lines only line up at the initial install.

Bans nismo since he can't remember his member title.

bans nunya because no one else has done it yet.

I think something for the water may have had a similar drive???

Good Find Pezzy. What a cool invention. Somebody was really thinking outside the box when they came up with that one.