andreus009

Quite a bit of improvement when I punched out the main cat (I dunno if it was clogged or just restrictive). Prior to the main cat mod, I had already installed a Borla Catback, but that alone didn't improve performance any noticeable amount. As I said my mistake was punching the pre-cat. I lost a some low end performance when I did that.

I hollowed out the main cat (the big one) and sleeved it with a piece of exhaust pipe I bought at the local auto parts store. So essentially I have a straight pipe through. A real cheap and relatively easy modification. As a trial, you could just pull out the exhaust up to and including the cat. This would give you idea of how the power would be affected by deleting/punching out the cat, before you actually commit yourself. Obviously it probably will be obnoxiously loud, but at least you have not committed yourself to anything. Actually, now thinking about it you could do it in stages. Pull out the exhaust up to the cat and try it. Then pull out the cat itself and try it. It is possible there is a clog in the muffler or tail pipe section. I had this happen when I punched the cat (before I sleeved it) and didn't get all the pieces out. A piece got stuck in the tail pipe and block flow thus reducing my power. (My mistake in the whole exhaust moding, was hollowing out the pre-cat. You may or may not have on of these. Look at the exhaust shortly after the 02 sensor. If there is a bulge in the exhaust then you have a pre-cat also. Why? Nobody is exactly sure why this was done on same of the later WD21s except for some emission requirement somewhere. Also, I didn't start throwing CEL until I modded the pre-cat)

Yep, that is the reason. Easier than having a custom pipe fabbed that may or may not work. I should have scavenged one from J/Y but been too busy and/or lazy. Adding a high flow cat back into the system was my other thought, but hadn't pursued it. I imagine whatever you do will be better than stock, so you going to get an improvement. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I guess this is where I should chime in. My 95 came with the pre-cat. I bought it here in Florida, but don't know if it originated in some other state (I don't think so.) It doesn't show on the exhaust diagrams directly, but it is definitely orderable. (Your stealership people are morons) If you use courtesy's website and follow the link on the part where the pre-cat should be, you will find the different parts that can go there by year, trim, & drive style. The expensive ones are the pre-cat ones. I can tell you my cat story: Step1: gut & sleeved main cat...Result = Kick Ass. Felt like I gain 20hp at least. Step2: gut pre-cut...Result = loss of low end torque. Not terrible, but noticeable. I have never been sure if the reduction in torque was due to the loss of back pressure or the bad flow characteristic of the open area of the pre-cat. BTW, adding the Borla CatBack without Steps 1 & 2 did nothing to improve performance. If I had done Step 1 & 2 at the same time it still would have been a major improvement over stock set-up. Personally, based upon my experience I would do what you plan to do to the exhaust and leave the pre-cat in place. If you don't think you are getting the power improvement that you should, you can always pull it out later and have an exhaust shop fab up a piece to go in its place.

As I recall I only used long extensions from the front of the vehicle (steering linkage area) to get to the starter bolts. I know I just recently tightened the top one this way.

Any chance you drove it around some with the parking brake slightly engaged? If the rear shoes make sufficient contact with the drum while driving they will get hot and glaze. I did this to myself when offroading and in 4x4 lo range. Didn't even realize it was on until I saw the light. Duh! Anyhow, just got done doing rear brakes on mine and it is definitely braking better/faster. I guess if I was on a budget and suspected this problem I would lightly sand shoes and drums with a high grit sandpaper. Probably 300 or higher. I second the inspection of the rear brakes because if the fluid went down by 1/4" from wear in that seems like a lot in my opinion for a 2 month time frame.

I stole the above from another post. I started to download the zip file, but it is 33MB so I am assuming it is the complete manual (for you B ) After you login and select the free user account you'll have to wait 60seconds before it will give you a button to download the zip file. Hope this works for you. Once you download it, I'd recommend duplicating it somewhere so you have a back up. As you can see it can be a PIA to find it again. P.S. To moderator or admin. What happened to the help screen for the search function? Also, does the search work differently now? I tried using '+' like before but it brought up more than it should have. (please don't shoot if this already been answered somewhere else or if I'm just )

Probably an idiot question, but where is this information located? In the FSM or did you just count when taking off the original belt?

Bought my 95 in February 1997 after I finally got a real salary. It was kind of an urgent buy because my car had died. I knew I wanted an SUV to go offroad and it was a toss up between Pathfinder and 4runner. The Pathfinders were cheaper so that is the way I went. (Plus Pathfinder's didn't have saggy rear end issue of the 4 runners) It was difficult to find a 5sp with 4 wheel drive because too many soccer moms and yuppie dads had started driving them instead of the more practical minivan. First thing I did when I got it was run it into the woods and put some scratches in it, so I wouldn't have to worry about it in the future. Anyhow, got it at ~40k and now at 201+k. I'll have to say this has been the most reliable, lowest maintenance vehicle I have ever owned or probably will ever own. I've neglected it, abused it, and drowned it, but it keeps on ticking. I won't tell you how much is still stock and working so I don't jinx myself. The majority of the upgrades you see in my signature were just done at the 200k mark. If I could go out and buy a brand new one just like it, I would do it in a second. This one has stood the test of time and I hope to get another 100k out of it. They really don't make'm like this anymore.

Friends of mine did both a 3" and 2" BL for a Frontier and Pathfinder respectively. Both kits were ordered from 4x4parts.com (AC) My understanding was that the 3" kit was more organized and had better instructions. With the pathfinder you have to order the radiator drop down kit separate. Also, if you do the 2" BL on the pathfinder you have to trim the fan shroud. Not so if you do the 3" lift, if understand correctly. It seems likely you could cut the 3" kit down yourself, but all your hardware will probably be too long. Depending on how the hardware is threaded (full or partial length) it could cause some assembly problems.

I can think of two things real quickly: a] if the slow cranking happened after the clutch change, it sounds like maybe the shop didn't get your starter back in correctly (starter bolts also hold transmission in place). Maybe it isn't in tight which is causing the starter gear teeth not to be square to the flywheel. Look at the starter to see if it is oriented correctly. Also, try grabbing a hold of it to see if it is loose or can be easily moved. b] starter is just old and has given its last breath. Either of the above kind of leads to the path of pulling out the starter.

I'm not sure when they started the ABS on these, but judging by your instrument panel I'm not sure you even have it. (I don't see a indicator lamp for the ABS like mine has). As adamzan says the ABS (if installed) is rear wheels only, and it isn't individual rear wheels. In order for the ABS to activate both rear wheels have to lock. As far as highway speed in 4x4 mode. I've done this plenty of times in wet weather conditions (rains a lot in Florida). Tires should all be same size (even down to the amount of wear on the tires) and tire pressure should all be same also. Otherwise, you'll notice a slight shuffle because of tire mismatch. As adamzzn stated drive accordingly to the condition. Snow and ice are a lot slicker then just a wet road.

Did you replace the other bushings as well, i.e. the ones on the frame? I've got a spare set I can snail mail if you want'em. I over ordered because I was told only one came per package but there was actually two per package. Not worth the effort to return them. What kind of upgrade are you doing to the steering? Curious for my possible future works.

I used the Hayden 291 oil filter relocation kit (also available on Summit). It came with 4 thread adapters to match the block. 3/4-16, 13/16-16, 18x1.5 & 20x1.5. I measured the 3 thread adapters I didn't use and appears I used the 3/4-16 for the install. (Hard to measure internal threads accurately with calipers) You can verify this by buying a Fram PH8A (known 3/4-16 thread) and see if threads onto the block ok or you can measure the threads of the filter you normally use. Might be best measure with thread gauge to get accurate/sure measurement.

Just verified that on mine the left hand threaded tie rod ends are on the inner ones. 98% sure this is the correct arrangement, because when I first ordered inner ones the one worked on the driver side.

Yeah, I didn't know about the wedging thing, but since I wasn't looking right at it to access the risk to the box I thought I'd through it out there. What about the one from your parts truck? If you destructo remove the one and get the one off the parts truck intact...maybe you can make the destructro removed one work well enough to be able to move the parts truck around. Otherwise, Simon's idea sounds good too. :02:

http://s859.photobucket.com/albums/ab153/a...0Bleed%20SetUp/ The link will take you to the pictures of the setup I used to bleed my new master cylinder. The vinyl lines are run to below the truck into a container to catch the brake fluid. Sequence I used: Install all 3 bleed lines to start with. Pump the brake pedal to start the bleeding process. Check the lines to see how much fluid & air is in the line. If the line furthest from the firewall is mostly/all fluid, remove it and install the brake line. If not, pump the brake pedal some more and recheck. Repeat the pumping, checking of lines, and installing brake lines moving sequentially towards the firewall. Because the bleed lines will tend to drain out by gravity it may appear there is still air in the lines, but this process will get the majorityof the air out of the master cylinder. The rest you will have to get out with the normal brake bleeding process. NOTE: Don't forget about not letting the reservoir run dry. Look on both sides of the reservoir because when the fluid gets low enough it starts taking it from only one side depending on which lines are open.

Are you trying to save the arm or not? If destructive removal is an option then drilling/cutting may relieve some of the tightness. If destructive removal is not an option you may have to engineer yourself a better/stronger puller. Also, maybe hitting with an air hammer to set-up vibrations to help break it loose. Oh yeah, one more idea. Big pickle fork or maybe two wedges. (Wish I was looking right at it, but I'm at work )

X2. I had the same problem. Numnutz at the autoshop installed the passenger side one opposite. I had planned to just replace the inner tie rod ends because the outers were still good. Anyhow, ordered accordinglly, go to install....and the passenger side won't thread in because it is flipped around. I ended up replacing them all rather than returning the one and propagating the error. If IIRC the left head thread tie rods should go toward the center of the vehicle on both sides. I can double check tonight.

Ok...i'll try to make this a short story. Installed Borla CatBack Muffler = 0 improvement in performance. Looks pretty though. Well at least it did until I covered it in mud multiple times. Punched and Sleeved Main Cat = Wow...that really helped. Good low end to mid power improvement from stock. Top end is definitively still limited. Punched the small Cat before Main Cat = Hmm.....my low end isn't as good as it was.. Dang it. Definitely not mental. But it will hit 90+ mph and hold it pretty easy. Not very useful, but a fun fact to know. Practical lesson learned = the most free flow system may not be the best or it needs to be properly designed to be most effective. Oh yeah...one more thing. I did all the above mods with stock manifolds. Just recently installed headers and didn't seem to notice much difference. Well at least I don't have that darn ticking noise anymore.

1) If you use the search function you should be able to find several good threads about fixing the manifold problems. 2) Here is thread with a how-to on replacing the manifold studs: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196 3) Nissan Parts list for Manifold stud replacement. (Pulled this myself from another thread and had it handy.) qty part# Name 12 14065-V5004 Stud-Manifold 12 14039-W1500 Nut 12 14037-v5005 Washer-Lock 4) If you plan on working on it yourself recommend to locate and download the factory service manual. There a threads for this to. Some links in the theads don't work anymore...be patient one eventually will. 5) Recommend an oil filter relocation kit if you install headers. Otherwise its virtually impossible to change oil filter. (I couldn't see how to do it with the headers installed). There are at least two good threads about oil filter relocation kits/installs. 6) If all goes well 6 hours might be okay. But how often does everything go well? Extracting broken manifold studs can be a real time killer. Good luck and if you run into problems or can't find something please do make additional posts. We all like to help.

If i remember correctly it is studs on the passenger side. So either the nut turns or the stud turns. Either way it comes out. swivel a.k.a universal joint (had to check my self) Here is thought about dropping the tranny. Mine is a 5 spd but maybe this applies as well for the auto. I've had my tranny out twice and didn't have any fancy jacks (used 2 standard floor jacks, though 1 did have about 5" diameter plate/dish), so to help control the way it wants to roll, I left the tranny support crossmember bolted to the tranny. This leaves you with some leverage arms when it is disconnected from the frame. Those with autos can comment on whether or not this has merit.

I assume you mean on the passenger side. Long extension (17"+) & probably a swivel. PB Blaster nuts first if possible. Long extension & swivel comes in handy also for unbolting the tranny from the engine as well.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry425644 The above will take you to another thread regarding oil filter relocation. I think Koveman was refering to a local heat shield for the oil filter relocation hoses. Not something that was connected onto the headers themselves. In my opinion i believe the hoses would melt or at least be severely damaged if they came in contact with the headers, but if there is enough air gap then the hoses should be okay. I do not know what the minimum air gap you can get away with is, but personally i would go no less than 1". If you read the thread I've given here you will see that I personally overkilled the hoses just to be sure. However, there are plenty of people that have used the hoses (some come with hoses & some don't) that are supplied with oil filter relocation kit without issue. I was concerned about the fuel lines being kind of close to the headers so I used heat sheath from Design Engineering, Inc to add a little protection. You could do the same for the oil filter relocation lines because the sheath comes in different sizes. http://www.designengineering.com/products....m=sp&pid=37 I purchased the sheath from local auto parts store but they didn't carry all the sizes so you may have to order the larger ones if you wanted them. Well here I've gone again.

Two words: Murphy's Law