andreus009

Oops..guess i was going by what the dealer guy told me when I bought the truck 1997. Doh!

I have to second this question. The tick caused by broken exhaust manifold studs can sound similar to a bad lifter tick. Hate to see you tear into the lifters and not solve your problem. BTW, in case you haven't read it yet. The broken exhaust manifold stud issue is common issue to the vehicles thru 95. How long does the ticking sound last? If you turn it off and immediately restart does it quit? (I have a lifter tick at start up but usually goes away quickly. Sometimes it will hang in there for a little longer, so I'll shut down and then restart which has so far always stopped the tick) Umm...to ask the obvious....did you get the gaskets too? Also, have magnetic pickup wand handy. I dropped a lifter down in the head when I did a car I had. Thankfully, I was able to recover it with a magnetic tipped wand. Hope it doesn't happen to you.

Cool. I've been thinking about doing The E-fan to avoid the radiator drop for the body lift. Plus I'd like some additional cooling at trail speed, mine tends to run a little hot. I've heard you need to upgrade the alternator if you do the electric fan. Is that true? There a lot of different types of electric fans available. Anyone know the minimum CFM fan to use? Thanks in advance. (note: no I haven't searched the subject yet, but plan to in the near future so don't me) Oh yeah, JJ, in your diagram what is the box with the numbers in it?

Ok...I'm going to try to understand before I open my mouth. "The problem im having with the insurance is the claims adjuster told me that it is going to be totaled at $2290 or I can take a check for $2000" I understand by this statement that if you take the check for $2000 you still get to keep the truck? Otherwise you get $2290 and the insurance company keeps it. I'll assume you are correct in that there is more than $2000 worth of stuff missing. Do you have receipts for your aftermarket stuff that is missing? Insurance adjusters are used to dealing with "normal" cars with factory options. When you get into aftermarket stuff, they are basically clueless so the burden falls on you to provide the info to what the value of the added parts is. I know once I had get the value upp'd on a vehicle that got totaled but had recently had a lot of work done to it. I had the receipts to prove the work had been completed. In your case, it's aftermarket parts that you will want to replace. If you don't have the receipts, then I'd put together a list of the items missing and their replacement value. Include with each item the source for your replacement value. It may do no good at all depending on the adjuster and the insurance company rules. However, it's only a few hours work to make the list and could get you so more $$.

There are those that recommend several some if not all of those parts. Some of those even post here ;-)

Didn't know this was available until a friend of mine pointed it out for me. http://www.courtesyparts.com/bundle-timing-belt-kit-pathfinder-wd21-p-568787.html?cPath=5572_7666_7667& Kind of handy for almost one lump sum order. Of course you still need to order the hoses, but this gets the major components. All available kits: http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/maintenance/timing-belt-kits/-c-5572_7666_7667.html (Note to Admins & Mods. I also posted this in the product review section so it won't get lost, cause eventually it will slip way down on the list in the Garage. Sorry for the double post)

Good call B IIRC the recommend interval is every 70K miles, so technically it should have had its 2nd belt installed by now.

The ones that break are completely broken; as in you can go in with a pair of pliers and pull them out. The remaining studs will hold the manifold in place and probably will last a long time, but eventually another one may break at which time it will probably get louder. Like I said before I ran 4 years plus with broken studs. Mine started out the same way as your friends; in that you would hear when it was cold but once it warmed up it would quite down. However, about a year before I put the headers on it go so you could hear the exhaust ticky/leaky sound all the time. I suspect an additional stud broke, or could be just one of the manifolds warped. The short story IMHO is that he can run a long time with his current condition without it being a serious issue. If you want to be sure of the situation, pull off the heat shields, and try pulling gently on the studs with some pliers. I say to pull on them, because sometimes even if they break they will stay in place and it won't look like it is broken.

Out of curiosity how much did you have to cut and how did you cut it?

I had the same experience over 10 years ago when I bought my Pathy. 4runners way too pricey for what they are, not too mention most of the ones at that time had the sagging rear end issue. I don't know much about problem #1, but personally I'd start at the wiring at the sender under the hood. On problem #2, there is a 99.9% chance that it is 1 or more broken exhaust manifold studs. It's not going to fall apart, but may get worse over time. I ran mine with broken studs (1 passenger side / 2 drive side) for about 4 years, at the end it was getting so you could hear it even when it was warm. Repair thread here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196

2nd that. The first time I did the T-belt I lined up the lines like I was suppose to and then cracked the crank several times. The lines never lined up again. I freaked a little at the time, but knew I had installed it correctly so I put it all back together and it ran fine. So B is right in that the lines only line up at the initial install.

The general answer is no. To go larger than 31s you need a combination of lift(s) (body lift [bL] and/or suspension lift [sL]) and rims with the appropriate back spacing. The details of how and what you can accomplish with what lift can be found in other threads by searching. Happy Trails!

How does one go about searching for multiple words using the search function? I've tried '+', 'AND', and ',' and none seem to work the way I expect. I end up with threads with the first word but not the second? Oh yeah...I've even tried a space between the two words. Also, what about word exclusions? Before the forum switched formats there was an individual help screen that gave these kind of rules for searching, but I haven't seen something similar since the switch. Appreciate the Help with Search function

I once had a car (old Pontiac) with a bad torque converter lock control, and it would lock and unlock whenever it wanted. Produced a kind of jerking sensation, but it wasn't what I would call violent. My fix was to disable the torque converter lock. I'm sure you want to actually fix the problem, but maybe by messing around the torque converter lock control you can better isolate the issue. (Assuming the AT diagnostic doesn't work)

Also, you can check your speedo with a GPS system. With 31" tires my GPS says I'm doing 75mph when the speedo says 70mph. I've had mine to around 95 or 100 (quite frankly I was keeping my eyes on the road) but not until after exhaust modifications. Before the exhaust mods I'd be lucky if I could hold 80 mph. In my opinion, anything above 85 mph and things start getting sketchy.

Why on earth would they make the brake light come on if the alternator is bad? The battery light alone should be sufficient to tell you to investigate your electrical system. If I saw a double light like that I would have thought it was instrumentation issue instead of real problem.....

Enough said!

Probably not, but it is an easy thing to try since the ABS brain is right under the driver seat. If you are too lazy for this or pulling the instrument cluster you could cut a square of black tape to stick on the clear plastic to hide the ABS light. It's not like it all that bright. "There i fixed it....."

I had some difficulties installing my pacesetter headers others have had them drop right in without issue. My comments about my install are in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23496&st=20 As another note you may need to install an oil filter relocation kit, because the headers tend to block access to the oil filter. Some people have said it wasn't an issue, but in my case it looked darn near impossible to change the filter with the headers in place. Thread about oil filter relocate: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11831&st=40 The Thorleys are definitely better quality, but the Pacesetters will work. If you do go with the Pacesetter I'd recommend going with the ceramic coated ones. They haven't discolored or started rusting at all. The other version is plan steel and will rust pretty quick I imagine.

Not to be too sarcastic but most mechanics get in and out as fast as possible. They don't check everything as closely as maybe they should. I once had a wheel wooble from bad tie rod ends. You can check this by watching the tie rod ends while someone else turns your steering wheel back and forth. Also, I've had the hold down bolts for the upper control arm become loose and make odd sounds. I'm not sure how the 2004s are set up, but if you feel a wooble there is definitely something not right.

Stronglz recommend have second pair of hands to help

Removed the front sway on mine entirely and left the back one in place. Body roll is only slightly exaggerated without the front sway and original bushings on the rear one. Driven it all the way to North Carolina and back like this without any handling issues. Kind funny when starting out because the torque cause the one corner to lift up more then the other without the sway bar. Try it this way and you might decide it isn't worth trying to come up with a disconnect. I did. A disconnect for the rear is good for when you off-road.

I could see how it could happen if the internals were dirty or corroded. Bottom line though is that the manual hubs are much stronger then the autos. I broke an auto and it took the end of my CV shaft with it. Yes, I was definitely abusing it. Lucky I didn't take out the bearing at the same time.

Heads up on the studs and nuts that come with the WARN hubs. Don't use them. There is a thread around here for alternatives to replace them with, but the studs that WARN provides are weak and brittle. I broke one at the recommended install torque. Imagine my shock. I installed grade 8 socket head cap screws initially, but later swapped out with SS ones because the others were rusting. I would recommend the SS ones, but there is a risk of galvanic corrosion because of dissimilar metals. I haven't had the opportunity to take them back out to see if any corrosion is occurring. I can provide the McMaster-Carr part # for the stainless bolts if you are really interested.

Did you try it without the muffler re-installed? If the issue is in the exhaust, then it could be before or after the cat. Other ideas: - Bad O2 sensor making it run too lean? I'm no expert on O2 sensors so maybe someone can shed some light if this is possible. I think typically when O2 sensors go bad, the default is to run a little too rich. - Intake air flow restriction. I once had a friend who somehow got a whole bunch of paper towels stuck in his air box. The towels blocked the filter and he lost significant power. - MAF sensor? Personally, if I still suspected an exhaust issue I'd temporarily pull out everything up to the cross-over pipe. Cover and tie up the O2 sensor. Test drive. If you don't feel any improvement in this case you can pretty much rule out everything downstream of the cross-over. (Note: If you don't have the pre-cat you could probably stop at the pipe the O2 sensor is screwed into and leave the 02 sensor in place)