andreus009

Stronglz recommend have second pair of hands to help

Removed the front sway on mine entirely and left the back one in place. Body roll is only slightly exaggerated without the front sway and original bushings on the rear one. Driven it all the way to North Carolina and back like this without any handling issues. Kind funny when starting out because the torque cause the one corner to lift up more then the other without the sway bar. Try it this way and you might decide it isn't worth trying to come up with a disconnect. I did. A disconnect for the rear is good for when you off-road.

I could see how it could happen if the internals were dirty or corroded. Bottom line though is that the manual hubs are much stronger then the autos. I broke an auto and it took the end of my CV shaft with it. Yes, I was definitely abusing it. Lucky I didn't take out the bearing at the same time.

If you like round a bouts, try a six lane one. Yes, six concentric circular lanes of traffic with about 6 to 8 spurs leading off it. I had to navigate one of these in Portugal when getting out of or back into the airport....hella scary. Oh did I mention that actual was a stop light on the circle as well. Here is phenomena that happens every time it rains here in sunny Florida. Sirens...within about 30 minutes after the rain starts. Doesn't matter if it has rained every day for the past week or if it is the first rain in 3 weeks. Every time it rains there is an accident and no matter where you are you will here the sirens. You'd think people would learn. Rain = slow down & give more space.

Bans nismo for living in Rust City!

Heads up on the studs and nuts that come with the WARN hubs. Don't use them. There is a thread around here for alternatives to replace them with, but the studs that WARN provides are weak and brittle. I broke one at the recommended install torque. Imagine my shock. I installed grade 8 socket head cap screws initially, but later swapped out with SS ones because the others were rusting. I would recommend the SS ones, but there is a risk of galvanic corrosion because of dissimilar metals. I haven't had the opportunity to take them back out to see if any corrosion is occurring. I can provide the McMaster-Carr part # for the stainless bolts if you are really interested.

Ban B for not liking rhythm.

Bans MY1PATH for being a ban whore. I counted 6 times on this page alone.

Did you try it without the muffler re-installed? If the issue is in the exhaust, then it could be before or after the cat. Other ideas: - Bad O2 sensor making it run too lean? I'm no expert on O2 sensors so maybe someone can shed some light if this is possible. I think typically when O2 sensors go bad, the default is to run a little too rich. - Intake air flow restriction. I once had a friend who somehow got a whole bunch of paper towels stuck in his air box. The towels blocked the filter and he lost significant power. - MAF sensor? Personally, if I still suspected an exhaust issue I'd temporarily pull out everything up to the cross-over pipe. Cover and tie up the O2 sensor. Test drive. If you don't feel any improvement in this case you can pretty much rule out everything downstream of the cross-over. (Note: If you don't have the pre-cat you could probably stop at the pipe the O2 sensor is screwed into and leave the 02 sensor in place)

Quite a bit of improvement when I punched out the main cat (I dunno if it was clogged or just restrictive). Prior to the main cat mod, I had already installed a Borla Catback, but that alone didn't improve performance any noticeable amount. As I said my mistake was punching the pre-cat. I lost a some low end performance when I did that.

I hollowed out the main cat (the big one) and sleeved it with a piece of exhaust pipe I bought at the local auto parts store. So essentially I have a straight pipe through. A real cheap and relatively easy modification. As a trial, you could just pull out the exhaust up to and including the cat. This would give you idea of how the power would be affected by deleting/punching out the cat, before you actually commit yourself. Obviously it probably will be obnoxiously loud, but at least you have not committed yourself to anything. Actually, now thinking about it you could do it in stages. Pull out the exhaust up to the cat and try it. Then pull out the cat itself and try it. It is possible there is a clog in the muffler or tail pipe section. I had this happen when I punched the cat (before I sleeved it) and didn't get all the pieces out. A piece got stuck in the tail pipe and block flow thus reducing my power. (My mistake in the whole exhaust moding, was hollowing out the pre-cat. You may or may not have on of these. Look at the exhaust shortly after the 02 sensor. If there is a bulge in the exhaust then you have a pre-cat also. Why? Nobody is exactly sure why this was done on same of the later WD21s except for some emission requirement somewhere. Also, I didn't start throwing CEL until I modded the pre-cat)

Bans nunya for signature having a picture of his rig sitting in the driveway.

I probably have more 'character' now after wheeling at Uwharrie. The bank got a little close.

Yep, that is the reason. Easier than having a custom pipe fabbed that may or may not work. I should have scavenged one from J/Y but been too busy and/or lazy. Adding a high flow cat back into the system was my other thought, but hadn't pursued it. I imagine whatever you do will be better than stock, so you going to get an improvement. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I guess this is where I should chime in. My 95 came with the pre-cat. I bought it here in Florida, but don't know if it originated in some other state (I don't think so.) It doesn't show on the exhaust diagrams directly, but it is definitely orderable. (Your stealership people are morons) If you use courtesy's website and follow the link on the part where the pre-cat should be, you will find the different parts that can go there by year, trim, & drive style. The expensive ones are the pre-cat ones. I can tell you my cat story: Step1: gut & sleeved main cat...Result = Kick Ass. Felt like I gain 20hp at least. Step2: gut pre-cut...Result = loss of low end torque. Not terrible, but noticeable. I have never been sure if the reduction in torque was due to the loss of back pressure or the bad flow characteristic of the open area of the pre-cat. BTW, adding the Borla CatBack without Steps 1 & 2 did nothing to improve performance. If I had done Step 1 & 2 at the same time it still would have been a major improvement over stock set-up. Personally, based upon my experience I would do what you plan to do to the exhaust and leave the pre-cat in place. If you don't think you are getting the power improvement that you should, you can always pull it out later and have an exhaust shop fab up a piece to go in its place.

As I recall I only used long extensions from the front of the vehicle (steering linkage area) to get to the starter bolts. I know I just recently tightened the top one this way.

Any chance you drove it around some with the parking brake slightly engaged? If the rear shoes make sufficient contact with the drum while driving they will get hot and glaze. I did this to myself when offroading and in 4x4 lo range. Didn't even realize it was on until I saw the light. Duh! Anyhow, just got done doing rear brakes on mine and it is definitely braking better/faster. I guess if I was on a budget and suspected this problem I would lightly sand shoes and drums with a high grit sandpaper. Probably 300 or higher. I second the inspection of the rear brakes because if the fluid went down by 1/4" from wear in that seems like a lot in my opinion for a 2 month time frame.

I stole the above from another post. I started to download the zip file, but it is 33MB so I am assuming it is the complete manual (for you B ) After you login and select the free user account you'll have to wait 60seconds before it will give you a button to download the zip file. Hope this works for you. Once you download it, I'd recommend duplicating it somewhere so you have a back up. As you can see it can be a PIA to find it again. P.S. To moderator or admin. What happened to the help screen for the search function? Also, does the search work differently now? I tried using '+' like before but it brought up more than it should have. (please don't shoot if this already been answered somewhere else or if I'm just )

Probably an idiot question, but where is this information located? In the FSM or did you just count when taking off the original belt?

Bought my 95 in February 1997 after I finally got a real salary. It was kind of an urgent buy because my car had died. I knew I wanted an SUV to go offroad and it was a toss up between Pathfinder and 4runner. The Pathfinders were cheaper so that is the way I went. (Plus Pathfinder's didn't have saggy rear end issue of the 4 runners) It was difficult to find a 5sp with 4 wheel drive because too many soccer moms and yuppie dads had started driving them instead of the more practical minivan. First thing I did when I got it was run it into the woods and put some scratches in it, so I wouldn't have to worry about it in the future. Anyhow, got it at ~40k and now at 201+k. I'll have to say this has been the most reliable, lowest maintenance vehicle I have ever owned or probably will ever own. I've neglected it, abused it, and drowned it, but it keeps on ticking. I won't tell you how much is still stock and working so I don't jinx myself. The majority of the upgrades you see in my signature were just done at the 200k mark. If I could go out and buy a brand new one just like it, I would do it in a second. This one has stood the test of time and I hope to get another 100k out of it. They really don't make'm like this anymore.

Friends of mine did both a 3" and 2" BL for a Frontier and Pathfinder respectively. Both kits were ordered from 4x4parts.com (AC) My understanding was that the 3" kit was more organized and had better instructions. With the pathfinder you have to order the radiator drop down kit separate. Also, if you do the 2" BL on the pathfinder you have to trim the fan shroud. Not so if you do the 3" lift, if understand correctly. It seems likely you could cut the 3" kit down yourself, but all your hardware will probably be too long. Depending on how the hardware is threaded (full or partial length) it could cause some assembly problems.

I can think of two things real quickly: a] if the slow cranking happened after the clutch change, it sounds like maybe the shop didn't get your starter back in correctly (starter bolts also hold transmission in place). Maybe it isn't in tight which is causing the starter gear teeth not to be square to the flywheel. Look at the starter to see if it is oriented correctly. Also, try grabbing a hold of it to see if it is loose or can be easily moved. b] starter is just old and has given its last breath. Either of the above kind of leads to the path of pulling out the starter.

I'm not sure when they started the ABS on these, but judging by your instrument panel I'm not sure you even have it. (I don't see a indicator lamp for the ABS like mine has). As adamzan says the ABS (if installed) is rear wheels only, and it isn't individual rear wheels. In order for the ABS to activate both rear wheels have to lock. As far as highway speed in 4x4 mode. I've done this plenty of times in wet weather conditions (rains a lot in Florida). Tires should all be same size (even down to the amount of wear on the tires) and tire pressure should all be same also. Otherwise, you'll notice a slight shuffle because of tire mismatch. As adamzzn stated drive accordingly to the condition. Snow and ice are a lot slicker then just a wet road.

I have the Bridgestone Duelers A/T on mine. I actually have both versions the Revo and the pre-Revo. The pre-Revo is a more agressive pattern and a harder rubber. It is also a little noiser, but not much in my opinion. Looking at the Bridgestone website it seems they have recently released the Revo 2 which is a further improvement to the Revo line. I think the Revo and Revo 2 are geared to improve the on-road performance and still give decent off-road performance. My preference is the pre-Revo type. All A/T tires are going to have trouble in any serious mud, but for essentially dry trails they should perform well. :02:

Did you replace the other bushings as well, i.e. the ones on the frame? I've got a spare set I can snail mail if you want'em. I over ordered because I was told only one came per package but there was actually two per package. Not worth the effort to return them. What kind of upgrade are you doing to the steering? Curious for my possible future works.