OldSlowReliable

My mother came home today with a 4 outlet hub that 3m's to the dash, and can plug in everything.....I guess it was on sale for 8 bucks... problem solved I guess lol She also came home with a remote unlock for me to figure out how to install.... :thumbsdown:yay?

A picture, as in so I can see what the part looks like/where it is located, to look it up on the parts number site found somewhere in my members ride topic (as well as a few other places)

a picture would help, atleast to identify the part number on a diagram

1) Wouldn't that draw an awful lot of power from the factory wiring? 2) The way that is placed, I can't stand the wire mess I have right now...much less with three things plugged in... 3) I just got my wisdom teeth out, and am looking for a project, as I can only drive if I don't take my painkillers, which isn't alot of fun

Just wondering if anyone has wired a few extra cigarette lighter outlets into their wd21, as well as where/how, I.E. on the dash using a 10 amp relay or whatever... Additionally, could I just splice off from the power of the factory outlet, then ground it through two more outlets? I'd think this would be bad for the small gauge wiring, and any sort of fuse along with it.... One last inquiry.. Has anybody put a series of toggle switches in their wd21? I'm going to have some hellas on the front eventually, a pair of lights out back, along with a switch for the power outlets, interior footwell lights, and lord knows what else... I was thinking either where there are usually alarm switches and such on the center console, or right below my radio on the dash...

I read 30amp is acceptable

whoopsies! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-933791061/?rtype=10

I was looking @ these, cheaper than buying 4 relays (and only like 3 more than buying two of the spst) and they are rated for 40 amps....

Not sure about your r50...but on all the cars I've run wires through, I've chosen one of the following- Clutch Plate (if available as a 5spd but equipped with an auto) Steering column, usually has a big rubber gasket that can be moved out of the way fairly easily Drill a hole, put rubber grommet in it to protect wires (its just a thin piece of steel afterall )

Yes, definitely... Anyone know if that PIAA single pack deal is still valid? I got on their site, they have a single pack LISTED but not for sale..

If they'd fit a 91, i'd buy em in a heartbeat! But, assuming 91/95 are interchangeable as they always are, they would not fit lol

I thought our frames were apx 1/8" exactly? I can't remember if I used 3/16" or 1/8", but I think I used 1/8".... Just saying, thats quite a price for such thin steel

I kinda watched a vid or two on youtube, but it really wasn't too difficult (I used some when cutting up my 1/4 panel) mix it, spread it over the area in a rough estimation of the desired shape, let it cure, sand it down a bit, clean, apply a thin skim of the smooth stuff over a slightly larger area to "feather" it into the shape, let it cure, sand it smooth, paint, done but reconsidering it, unless you have a good way to paint it to match, you might as well do a quick fix, i.e. a rubber stopper or silicon.....its basically a question of how thorough do you wish to be?

Less than 1/8"....I'll pass

I'm partial to bondo-glass...to "bridge the gap" so to speak, and some light bondo to smooth it over

Um....you started out right, but I think you got a little confused at the end 35% is darker than 70%, as you said, they are named by how much light they let IN, lower percentage=darker, hence why 5% is "limo-tint" now, "a tint of 70%" would let 30% of the light through, but this is colloquially termed as "a 30 percent tint" 20% tint means only 20% of the light is passing through (as I've ever seen it labeled or called) which, albeit not impossible to see, does make quite a difference! Lower the number, darker the shade...unless you are referring to how much tint the tint material is supplying (and therefore not in how it is branded and sold) whew....my brain hurts...

I find you also have to set it to sort by "relevance" instead of "last updated"...otherwise you ALWAYS get poho lol :coffee!:

See, but even with their plate, you'd still have to modify it (does it look THIN to anyone else?) Theres a body mount right smack dab in the middle of that back portion....you'd have to mod ONE of them

Under those cases, I'd rebuild the entire rear frame rails for safety and durability...300 bucks is most of the price of a NICE and NEW welder... I'd be willing to pay 160 per side for 2x4 tubing notched/bent to shape....but not a plate that just covers a side.. I am, however, interested in how FAR back it goes....and how it passes the body mounts, as maybe they would do a "half kit" and just sell the rear portion..

however tempting (i have some PITA holes around rear body mount)....I don't know how justified $160 would be...per side never the less

I'd be into an A pillar gauge pod....but they would have to sink it really far, I don't want to get poked in the eye and I'd have to add a potentiometer/transistor or something similar to tone them all down at once....hmmmmmm

I tend to prefer the grinder approach

sounds like you just need to go for some longer drives...or probably even let it warm up more in the morning instead of jumping in and going..

But couldn't not allowing it to warm up, and condensation cause that same effect adam? Have you been making a ton of short trips without letting it run for a bit recently with the cold weather?

wow...that rear air duct would have been nice through my childhood!!