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OldSlowReliable
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Everything posted by OldSlowReliable
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most companies that can do vinyl stickers will be able to replicate the stock stuff, usually with just a couple minutes of photography/measuring involved... I know jeepers do it alot with the 'RENEGADE' stickers on their hoods when repainting older wranglers....
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This is when I wish my truck was less of a garage crawler!!
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Not necessarily, there ARE ways around it, i.e. cutting up some rad hoses and removing part of the fan shroud which may reduce your cooling abilities if you are in a very hot climate... Pretty sure I got one from 4x4parts.com laying around in my garage somewhere, if you're looking to save a buck
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Almighty... moved my CB to the back of my center console, screwed cup holders to the side of my CC, hammered my 4x4 shift oval into a bigger oval to allow me to use 4lo, put my 3+usb cigarette lighter under my stereo, and found out the black box that is currently under my stereo behind the trim, is the ABS module, and will have to move for me to utilize the extra pocket. I think I can just remove it....I don't really see the point in ABS when my tires just lock up anyways, otherwise I'll just move it behind the dash somewhere! whew!
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Wow, that bumper looks WAY better on the x!! much more tucked in and streamlined!
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front bumper build pics please
OldSlowReliable replied to flyinwall's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
If you're a fair fabricator/welder, I love my tube bumper (I used square tube and made a standard offroad bumper...not round tube) vs the plate bumpers such as an ARB..it wasn't too difficult, and is very functional. If you are not handy with a welder/grinder, http://www.kenmtnac.com/ makes bumpers for ours, although it is a 6-8 week turnaround and their customer service leaves something to be desired. here's a basic pic of my bumper, I can snap a better one if you wish. -
I bought hatch struts from autozone, (over 3 years ago) and they still work great, however the window struts did NOT work... I cannot comment on that ebay seller...
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Help! Do you know what's this for?
OldSlowReliable replied to teixeira's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
was it ever really a mystery? -
alternative front and rear bumper mods
OldSlowReliable replied to haascncvf2's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
If you want to risk the poor customer service, kennesaw mountain makes a nice looking front/rear bumper, although the current rear is not what it was a few months ago, it still looks good, and only $50 more.. beware, they have been bad with delivery dates, or so I've heard. http://www.kenmtnac.com/MCNissan.html Besides that, you got smittybilt, homemade, or trying to find something used to modify. The rear will be alot easier to find something to fit, but the front can be a PITA imho -
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another discovery- When one wire or the other is connected(at the door switch wiring), everything works fine, but when I connect both, it malfunctions up the wazoo...I'm thinking it might just be a defective unit after all
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Just went out and multimeter'd the module lock/unlock wires... with the lock wire connected to the B/Y locking wire on the vehicle, and the unlock wire only connected to the + of my DMM= When I press lock on the keyless remote, it goes from 12v to 0v When I press unlock on the keyless remote, it goes from 12v to 0v with both disconnected, I get no signal whatsoever... probably useless, but confusing nevertheless..
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9004-Hi-Low-Headlight-Wire-Harness-Kit-Hi-Watt-HID-NEW-/160516153014?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item255f821eb6 About $35 shipped....looks pretty much like plug n play.. Considering relays are no less than $5 each, plus a good $20 in wire and connections...not too shabby really..
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I <3 lamp.
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Mine explicitly says built in door lock relays... I just really don't see how this isn't doing it...
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Teach me your ways oh great one!!!
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Well, I grounded each wire (unlock and lock alike) and they both only LOCK the doors.... I finished the rest of the wiring, including the starter immobilizer..I can lock the doors with the remotes, with both the unlock and lock buttons, but nothing unlocks it.. I also HEAR the starter relay click with each button, but the truck will not start...possibly the unit knows that its not really unlocking the doors somehow and its just relocking the starter relay?....so freaking wrong!! edit-- Fixed the starter relay...when I got it, one of the wires was disconnected, I connected it how I thought I was reading to, but evidently that was the wrong slot lol.. Oddly enough, I just pulled the switch from the drivers door out, found the black/red wire and spliced into it...touched the new splice to the grounding bolt, and it unlocks....but why would the wire do two different things at two different places? I'm going to pull the wire from the passenger side to see if that does the same thing, otherwise I guess I'll be running a wire from the door to the body somehow.. double edit- wired it from the door switch....which works when I manually ground it, but when its hooked up to the security unit, the actual door switch won't unlock, and when I hit lock, the door locks go crazy unlocking/locking indefinitely... due to patching in before the timer?
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I don't have a pocket, but I have a flat face surrounding where that would be
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Is it this to which you refer? Last time I had it off...I coulda sworn there was some sort of black box or something behind there....hmmmm
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Just checked out he FSM for a 94....it says that the wire is Black with a red stripe, just like everywhere else, this is amazing lol
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I prefer 3m velcro patches, so its easily removable...heck, thats how I attached my remote unlock/alarm box under the dash! lol
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Installing a remote unlock kit for my 91, bulldog security system, whatever... Got it almost all wired up, but ran into a weird issue; All the sites I go to, say that the unlock/lock wires are in the drivers kick panel, lock is black with a yellow stripe, and unlock is black with a red stripe. I found them both, right next to each other in the harness, and wired up the locking side, checked it with my voltage meter, 12v standing, when you hit lock, it grounds it and goes to 0v. I just wired up the unlock, went to test it, and it's reading 5v standing, and doesn't change when I hit unlock, but goes to 0v when I hit lock.... I'm a little confused, and very frustrated at this point.. anyone done this before who can chime in?
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hmm, never seen one of those...I'll definitely check it out
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Oooh, thats what I'm thinking about! Unfortunately, my wd21 is single slotted
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recommendations for best place to access the ignition wiring harness under the dash?
