OldSlowReliable

I finally know what codes mean what....now I can do it but the dealerships keep em secret!!

I got the crazy code 55 ONCE!!!!! It was scary!!

Out of curiosity, are those battery terminals fake chrome plating over plastic? A buddy of mine's battery died with terminals just like those, and we couldn't jump it for the life of us, because there was no way to get a clear contact point without disconnecting everything and holding the wires to the terminal (not exactly SAFE) Just a thought Lights look good!

My ma's JGC throws a code constantly (knock sensor and vacuum leaks or whatever) $98 every time she takes it in... I'll take my ecu ANY day

Jimmy Hoffa?

Wow....wish they made those kinda setups for wd21's! R50 here I come!

I buy mine from a local non-chain place called Midland Steel Supply Inc. Basically a small warehouse with saws and steel racks, with an outdoor rack section for the I beams and such...and they do welding for custom orders and such Here's what I bought and how much it cost (the longer lengths were purchased in lengths of 6ft chunks) 12' of 2x2x3/16" ~ $40 12' of 3x2x3/16" ~ $48 6' of 5x2x3/16" ~ $33 I'd check local fab shops see if they have steel they want to sell, alro steel, speedymetals.com, or local metal shops..

Heres how it works You turn cruise ON via a switch on the dash You get to the speed you want Press the button on the end of the headlight stalk You are cruising (I forget which point the light comes on, I think one light comes on when you turn the system on, and another when its cruising) The coast/accelerate setting comes from the little back/forth switch on the headlight stalk

He is correct, its just a resonating tube It is actually sealed off about 2 inches in

I was just opinionat-ing along side your opinion

Lighting is lighting, doesn't serve any less of a purpose no matter how your rig is built...some people might say that IFS rigs look out of place with 33's on them....just sayin

Axles are held on by ubolts and leafsprings.... I don't know about them being STRONGER, but they really don't have to be all that strong in the first place..

I'm tellin ya, that switch will only work with constant power...unless you can use a capacitor or something, its always going to do that...although one LED has a .0000001% chance of draining your batter in less than a year either live with them coming on at start, or run them off constant power...I'm not sure if you're concerned with it draining your battery or just having a constantly hot wire....I wouldn't be concerned with either tbh

If you're running your switch on an ignition based power wire, chances are it works by using a small amount of power being supplied to keep the switch in either position, and resets when you remove all power from the switch to the ON position... I'd start by running your 12v+ from a constant source, instead of an ignition source, or atleast test it and see if that changes it...although without a good look at the switch and wiring, I'm not entirely sure Where'd you buy it btw?

So you're saying the rotors you pulled off were less than 177mm? So you pulled off a 7" rotor? Someone isn't measuring something right...

Considering any new bumper you get will most likely have its brackets, and if it doesn't, how CHEAP it is to go grab some from a pick n pull...like I said, I wouldn't bother trying to straighten them out or reuse them, too much hassle..

I'm going to take a wild guess....and say you could use a 93-95 front bumper! I wouldn't try to salvage what you have, but instead either buy it off rock auto or a junkyard, cause although the frame mounts are probably fine, I'd wager the bumper brackets are atleast somewhat bent... then I think it'll look like new!

People put 33s, 35s, and larger on that carrier....nothing to worry about. My 33x1250 has posed no issues If I'm not mistaken, the cj5's and such had the tire bolted to the tailgate's sheetmetal, ours are on a tire carrier that is supported very well behind the sheetmetal, much less a strong section of steel on the rear pillar

Yes. Assuming you mean the TIRE CARRIER and not the TIRE BRACKET (inside the cargo area) It will not fit the cargo bracket if it has any tread, from what I've heard

In a part of their writing about it, they claim it will be seeing a fair bit of rock crawling.. perhaps its going to be more of a performer than a stage hand? only time will tell!

Although I'm not certain if this is applicable to the r50; I've seen plenty of wd21's w/the engine pulled while leaving the transmission in...but I honestly haven't heard one way or the other for the r50 edit-- did they make an r50 in OZ? I've yet to see one!

If you don't want to deal with it, autozone sells new caliper brackets and slide pins... just another option