OldSlowReliable

Just to clear up, a moment after I posted, I realized I left it out, and edited to include "for future reference"

You should have searched. period. Honestly...you will understand when you get to the point where you've answered these questions a billion times sooner or later... I understand this was difficult considering you didn't know what it was, but just for future reference . When identifying things like that, I try to either find markings on it, or trace back the wires & compare to the wiring diagrams.. Last time I checked... nismothunder>new guy....keep that in mind If you're having trouble getting it to run/start, check the basics of an internal combustion engine, compression, spark, fuel, air and the like before looking much further for the crazy bugs and such, if he sucked up some water, its possible there could be serious engine damage resulting in one of the above not happening.

700? I put 300 into mine, and that was used springs and brand new UCA's...

just a comparison of 3" vs 3"+3"

get the suspension lift, its much more useful than a body lift (for wheeling purposes, raises the entire frame & such) if your you're only going to get one, otherwise get both, you will thank yourself for it later. The combination make the vehicle alot easier to work on, will make your life alot easier for wheeling, as well as fitting tires/wheels. If you simply can't afford to do both, wait until you can, you will thank yourself for it later, spending a weekend doing it all versus having half done now, half done later. If you're worried you will have trouble doing the suspension lift, trust me, its easy. Short answer- yes, it will do for now, but will be more of a headache than just waiting to put on the 33s until you have the full lift

I take my malibu into the dealership for in depth work, i.e. hub bearings when I either cannot, will not, or am unable at the time to do the work myself. Mostly because up until recently I had a steady income that allowed the extra expense, and I like the work they do! I do like taking it into tuffy, because they have done good work and the weekend my muffler rusted off, I had to be back @ school 200 miles away in 24 hours... The only other time was again when I was at college, my PS pump out line clamp rusted off, spewing all my ps fluid across the road. I saw the issue, took it into the cheapest shop I could. Their shop rates were $64 an hour, with a student discount it was $50/hour, and they charged me for 45 minutes and a hose clamp, plus gave me a ride back to campus for the night while they waited for a box of PS fluid to come in the next day, picked me up at campus and had a really comfy couch!! Although I was very capable of doing this repair for $5, I really have no beef with supporting a local shop trying to make a living, especially when they had 3 bays, 2 of which were blocked with vehicles who's owners couldn't pay (one's hub bearing exploded on the rack, and the owner didn't understand why they couldn't just drive it home, the other a dropped tranny) The three times I've taken my pathy to the shop in the past 5 years have been the following -Private dealership (VERY BAD IDEA) charged me $75 to put on an idler arm brace, then the guy had the nerve to test drive and fully inspect my meticulously maintained malibu, later calling and offering $400..... -Took it into tuffy for a muffler gasket replacement on warranty, charged $45 labor but it saved me time. -Sears automotive had it on the alignment rack, told me I needed all new TRE..charged me $50 each end plus alignment, but cut me a deal for the labor involved summing up to $400 odd bucks, I wasn't happy, but it made she who shall not be disobeyed happy. My mom takes her jeep primarily to the dealership, but thats only been for the CEL and some factory recalls, up to this point. Took it to a private shop after the dealership wanted to flush her transmission and replace a bunch of seals, private shop did great work and worked WITH me in diagnosing a vacuum leak for a fraction of the cost...some really cool guys! I have only had my motorcycle serviced 1x...took it into the honda dealer who will be selling me my next bike. They did good work for alot of $$, but now I'm more learned in motorcycle mechanics, so I won't have to again! Honestly it sums up to how much you like/can do the jobs. A good friend/teacher of mine once told me he was taking his SAS'd blazer to an offroad shop to change the shocks out, I was like "wtf?? can't you do that in 10 minutes in the driveway?" and he said "When you get to where I am in life, your time becomes more valuable than your money" and I've always remembered that. Sure you could do it for no labor charges, but it could take you a week to finish, and not be done right, or you could pay a shop $200 in labor, give a guy a bump in his pay for the week, and be happy. My beef comes into the PARTS costs....because they not only BUY these things at a discounted rate, but then SELL them to you at a premium! Not once has a dealership given me the opportunity to supply my own parts, but every private shop i've visited has given me 100 different options, whether it be who they get it from, what quality it is, or if I bring it in!! Wow!! this is a freaking novel!!

Likewise.....the very, very, long list..... :thumbsdown: 4wheelparts is currently offering free ground shipping and 10% off...thats 263 shipped to your door. Steep for my blood, although my truck desperately needs them!

idk....those steelies look like they go for apx 90 bucks, my steelies cost under 250 for 5

why not just get cragars?

They look like base model chevy steelies...being an r50 owner you will need to find out the backspacing and make sure they are not 15's (or whatever size won't fit your brakes if I remember correctly) in my experience, the police don't usually go for anything spectacular in their wheel choices, alot being the classic plastic cover over steel wheel w/o the plastic cover... I'd be willing to bet you can find them on rock auto under either one of those vehicles.

Yeah, my walmarts used to carry em for like $50...but now none of them do..shoulda bought em when I had the chance!

Feel free to send me a pair of those hellas while you're workin

It does. It depends who does it, I've seen a few carfax's including "frame repair" that made no note of a crash on the report.

Simple answer- Don't use the hi-lift Trying to lift from the center of either end will result in it getting the wheels off the ground, then the truck shifting to one side or the other, knocking it off the jack.. possibly injuring someone beneath it.. a VERY experienced wheeler that I had do some welds on the stronger parts of my bumper recommended an all-in-one bottle jack/jack stand. He said they are about $30 at tractor supply, go up to about 18-24 inches I think, and keep you safe...not making you have to carry two jacks. The nice thing to have a hilift for is the tugging capabilities, and if someone doesn't carry a jack with them and CAN use a hilift, you're prepared!

Washed it up all nice, assessed the winter salt damage...gonna have to grind down nearly every metal surface on the truck and repaint it

I think I've seen estimates go from 400 to 1000 depending on shops, IF they do it...and it will definitely go onto your carfax stuff...if that matters Private shop/person, probably less than 400 for a patch job, anyone's best guess for a full rect tube rebuild.. Remember, your not just paying for time/parts with this, your paying for skills and experience...so expect a fair bill

-pat-pat-pat-pat- *burp* Who's a good master cylinder!!! That was a BIG burp!!

Here's to you Packie..

This happened to my truck years ago (when I was a short bugger) and I believe it had something to do with the neutral safety switch...because I think it doesn't let you remove key unless it is in park...mine happened right around the time my gear selector wouldn't move from park, after which you now don't have to depress the brake to change gears... It must be some sort of sensor, considering it goes away when you remove power

Actually, you'll probably end up having to pay more along the lines of $25 for shipping, as they are in canada. Not too long ago I shipped a shackle kit to canada via flat rate box, and it was around 20-30 total...and no customs fees which saved alot of $

For my XE seats, the only thing I can think of that would get in the way is that hump under the front, BUT if you're so determined, that could be modified...

Your seat is vertically adjustable? Dang.... I don't have access to my truck right now, otherwise I would look myself, but the best way I can figure is to cut the stock brackets, and either weld them on up higher, or fabricate new ones. I can't think of any other way, this is all assuming that there is room in the floorpan to lower it more...