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OldSlowReliable
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Everything posted by OldSlowReliable
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The day has come to sell the rig- http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35677-91-wd21-6-on-33s-in-michigan/
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Joa, While I do not live in your area, so I cannot comment on what kind of shops would do a body lift for you, I'd assume most offroad shops would if you gave them the instructions/kit. Here are your options for body lifts, 2" or 3"- https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/body-lifts-pathfinder-c-117_354.html It is not entirely complicated, in fact it was the first thing I ever did mechanically on any vehicle. There are good writeups on this site, and more than enough people have done them if you run into trouble so perhaps you will decide to do it. If you're still looking for a shop to do it, I suggest contacting a local offroad forum or club to see who they trust to do work on their rigs, and give them a call to see if they are interested in doing it. While it isn't like cutting springs or changing coilovers, I wouldn't say that it is any more difficult or invasive. Unbolt a few select items for clearance, unbolt body, lift, rebolt, and change a few things (gas fill tube, steering column etc).
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For anyone else who likes replacing bolts & such as long as you have them off, here are the stats on the ones I replaced this time around- Balljoint 4 upper mounting bolts- m8x1.25 25mm Auto Hub Bolts- m8x1.25 65mm (apx 65) Anyone who can't find the auto hub bolts, here is a site that sells them, also in SS http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=if4h7r
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Just some quick info- The twelve point bolts on the shaft required a 12mm socket I only found it necessary to undo the autolocking snapring, and the upper balljoint to remove, waiting for parts to come in so not certain if they will go in the same. If you can get the shaft to lock to the hub, you can put the lug nuts back on and put a small floorjack/2x4 between one and the floor at 3/9 o'clock to halt the shaft for easy bolt removal, also works for cranking on the hub bolts I'll update with any other tips/tricks when I get the shipment in to finish my front end. I've ordered two duralast remans with a lifetime warranty for 57 a pop, $100 core charge. Autozone said they should take half a day to arrive, so hopefully tomorrow. First side removal took about an hour, but I'm familiar with the hub n such, and waited for some pb blaster to settle in, second side removal was about 35 minutes, not including time to put it on stands and take the wheel off, as I put the entire front end up first thing.
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Depends on when the money is "due" really, I'd probably be interested in one.
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SAS and engine swap WD21
OldSlowReliable replied to daver123's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
if I'm not mistaken, there is a slip joint on the shaft. -
Given that r50s have struts, isn't backspacing a little more important?
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new gun or new tv?
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think of any motorcycle on the road. no strut covers on the forks for a reason. (save for a few that do it for looks)
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there's a topic on cv shaft replacement that has pictures of hub dis-assembly and such. I think its in the how-to's, but may be wrong.....
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150 for 4 is no deal atall. even if they were NIB
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please help , mounting CB radio
OldSlowReliable replied to tsailor21's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Depends on where you mount the cb....otherwise pull up carpet, lay down coax, lay down carpet. -
please help , mounting CB radio
OldSlowReliable replied to tsailor21's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
I've had mine mounted in two places, which may or may not work for you....they both WORKED for me, but only one really served my needs. 1st- Under the radio. My pathy has the abs module mounted under the radio in a box sorta thing molded to the dash, but my small cobra cb fit perfectly in that cavity, and with some finesse did not interfere with the auto shifter/transfer case. Last- On the back of my center console. I have no armrest (haven't for years) so attaching it facing straight up there has really worked wonderful. I kept my mic mounted to the center console right next to the ebrake on the upper most facet...works great, out of the way for 90% of the time I'm not using it. 18ft of cable has done me well, although 12 feet or so would probably work just as well. I have a fair amount coiled (correctly) under my rear seats, and some to spare for the back. This will depend greatly on where you decide to mount it. -
That's all great and dandy but for two things- Philosophy of use- Most 4 wheelers don't care about range. I know my cb only needs to communicate within my group (anywhere from 2 trucks to 50 trucks) who are all reasonably within line of sight, or shouting distance.....so a low/mid mount fiberglass cb is better than a roof mount whip that will be a PITA.... This isn't a 'criticize people's cb setups' thread...its a wanted ad for a tail light.. ---------------- More power to ya! I love my tire carrier for that same reason, no holes in the body panels, and it keeps it away from most danger! Food for thought- the jeepers typically use a little bracket that screws into the body where the tail light is, and protrudes with the cb mount....
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I know bikes primarily, but are you sure your timing is right? 0 compression definitely sounds valve related, and its possible you bent some valves..... just my observations though..
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anyone running a clutch fan and mechanical fan?
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screw the beetle, two motorcycles for $800...
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if any of you are ever asked to work on a Kia.....don't.
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Value of non-starting/running 72 beetle? Supposedly just needs points....asking 1200, 600 a good offer???
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You clip on the receivers so that when you're folding the seats up/down, they will remain attached to the seat, and not lost underneath the bottom. When you flip it back up, you unclip for use. There is also a similar system on the back of the seat for retaining the seat in the down position.
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Yep. I assumed worse case scenario the r50 has a softer suspension, and that brush guard is much lighter than my bumper, hence my observation
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Personally, I'd never pay over $50 for a bent brush guard...with the PIAA it might be different, but really, you're not going to really gain anything from buying it. The bumper I made for my wd21 did not noticeably weight the front down (although it weights close to 80 lbs), fyi.
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Everything on my truck has been welded with my 90amp fcaw mig harbor freight welder. Even my 3/16" front bumper w/drings... HOWEVER, you must know when to consult a pro! I welded all the cosmetics (i.e. corners/bevels) and simply tacked the structural areas for a local fabricator friend to weld. He did it for either 10 or 20 bucks (can't remember) which wasn't bad atall, even gave me some tips for uphill welding, offroad jack options, and generally just great conversation/advice, aswell as stellar welds! gotta say, my HF flux core is pretty great for what I paid (70 some bucks?) and aslong as you take care of it, it will return the favor! I've done a little bit of sheet metal work, and it had no problem doing it, although for anything that I'd like show-room pretty, a true mig would be much nicer than flux core...
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I use the same goggles I use for oxy-acet welding and torch cutting, if not my welding mask set to a very low darkness (only when I'm in contorted positions and getting sprayed in the face) Of course, in most cases you won't notice it...
