OldSlowReliable

Yeah, all that metal is pretty thin....I'd just take the bumper out, and smack it for a bit.. good thing you just painted it really, cause fresh paint will blend in wonderfully!

Personally, at MOST I'd sand it down and throw some fresh paint on there......nothing more than that It looks like your bumper ends attach differently than my 91...otherwise id have more info...fsm?

I was pretty certain it was 1 quart on the dipstick....I'd wait for an r50 owner to chime in before following this though

Pretty sure my chromies had 4" bs, and I know my new 15x8's are 4" bs

Lol...I was joking around.. Plus, I'm Canadian! I know the conversions, I'm double minoring in Physics and Russian...kinda hard NOT to know metric by now!

wheel spacers will mainly CHANGE how it rubs....with my 33's, I need only worry about rubbing on the frame (actually cut up the side lugs on my tires doing that lol) but if I were to put wheel spacers on, sure it wouldn't rub on the frame (which is just a matter of adjusting the turn stops), but it would most likely hit the fenders alot more.. Considering 31x1050 were a factory option (just differently adjusted turn stops mind you) I don't think you will have an issue, as long as you remember to properly adjust the turn stops, and get a wheel with around 4" of bs

ugh...metric conversions!!!

Oddly enough, this is a VERY popular style with low-pro tires on bmw coupes and such (tire being too narrow for wheel)

I'll gladly buy it off you in 3 years after you go BANKRUPT or die from work exhaustion...hahaha <3

Keep in mind, these bumpers don't go the full width of a jeep, much less our pathfinders!

kinda depends on what you want out of your truck....I pieced together my 6" (3+3) lift for under $500

Although I was unaware of a 3rd row in the 2011's...I see no reason why you couldn't! It should be as easy as unbolting them, and covering up the seat depressions in the flooring...but only experimentation will tell!

self pull junkyard... or someone's part out

Never heard of em available for the r50.

Lol, I too gave him +1 on the thread...dunno where a - came from.....hamburglar?

Anything under 37's and I'll stick with my 15's

just out of curiousity... why is your dash bloody? Is this why you are replacing it? because some bleach would do wonders!

KBB says curb weight of 3800..which in real circumstances with 100lbs of rust on it (lol) plus all fluids/driver/equipment comes out to anywhere between 4k-4.5k

http://nissan4u.com/parts/ or the FSM

They are pretty much shot...the little flap that closes when you remove the key has been broken on both for years, so the water has just been getting in there...I wouldn't be suprised if they were all frozen locked... I'm sure that the $$ put into redoing them, would be the same ifnot more than just buying new locks and having them rekeyed...

uncc swapped dashes, I'd send him a pm...or I'm sure its somewhere in the fsm..

Wheel bearings are easy peasy, you might as well do em, pay under 100 bucks total for EVERYTHING and git r dun in an hour or two The CV's are easy, but a little more indepth than the bearings..and I agree with the new shafts vs new boots, unless you are REALLY strapped for cash...heck, you could probably sell the old CV's to a member as spares and make back a couple bucks, and be better off for yourself! wd21 weighing 5500? Unlikely I think they are more around 4k to 4500

My point exactly...if I'm going through the trouble of changing 2/4...and then using two different keys...I may as well replace the rest... That being said, I'd rather have a used set from a local member (and let them get my $$) than pay some schmuck on ebay to sell me a broken set that's "New in box!!!!" edit- I just remembered, that I believe locksmiths will rekey locks.....so I could buy a new set of door locks, have them rekeyed, and be all set ..with my luck that will cost apx $100000000

So after my failed attempt at installing keyless unlock, all the locks have stopped working now... The drivers side doesn't unlock, hasn't for a while (turns, but doesn't unlock, I think its that little yellow piece)so my ma (currently driving it due to other cars being broken) has to walk to the passenger side...not a big deal but that lock has been getting so stiff you can't turn it on the first 35 tries...and now it apparently won't turn atall (or so she says, I'm 3 hours away right now) I'm looking for options, I can only find new ignitions online, not new keysets, and of the 1 or two pathfinders around here with keys in the ignition (at self pulls) their locks are in equal or worse condition.. here's what I have come up with as options- -Find out wtf I'm doing wrong with my keyless... -Replace that little yellow piece, and still have poorly working locks in general -Find a nice California truck with a full set of keys, and replace the ignition, and the all the lock cylinders (best option imho) -Stop locking my truck, and risk it getting stolen/vandalized... (and never get a new cd deck)