OldSlowReliable

It's not the transmission fluid. And if I'm reading your post correctly, you're doing it wrong. It may be a diff procedure for the r50s, but here's what I have to do in order to engage 4l on my wd21; Stop. Put it in park. Move the shifter down to 4l. Put it in drive. Go forward. I think you are mistaking the "drive reverse 6ft" with the process used to unlock automatic hubs. For a more precise answer, read your manual carefully, or wait for someone who owns and r50 to come in here.

I'm just going to say it; you have a really condescending attitude, or at least type like it. Sorry. It may take a tb spoon to bend a rod, but I've seen worse things result in no damage. Either way you proved my point, a table spoon of water splashes into your air filter and you're done. Still think a snorkel is useless? I think its obvious, the guy in the photo has a pretty sick rig, and has effectively waterproofed it. Although I have absolutely NO experience with diesel engines, it is a right hand drive, therefore very possibly has a diesel in which case I'm pretty sure they don't have alot of the electronics vs water issues that petrol engines do. In fact, I think I remember people commenting on h1 hummers being very water-capable because they only need a higher source of air to be waterproof. You cannot tell me that without a snorkel, all those crazy youtube video's we've all seen could have happened! Sure they do alot of work to modify the rest of the engine, but without a snorkel none of that other stuff would be necessarily, as soon as you lose the wave you have going in the water, you'd be done! Atlease with electrical stuff it can usually dry out, or be quickly replaced for only a couple bucks! For the person who's posting the topic asking questions, you sure seem to know everything there is to know. I'd also like to mention that people point at our wd21's the same way you just laughed at h2's. I've seen hummers in general do some pretty impressive things on the trail, and wouldn't hesitate to wheel with them again! Another good reason why people put them at roof level, is because they will probably NOT be going as deep as their head, therefore they can safely assume they will not accidentally dip it into the water, lets face it, if they are up to their roof they have bigger issues at hand! If they put the intake at fender level, they actually have a pretty good chance of getting water in, I've had water up over my hood, and it glides right up there no problem, all it takes is a table spoon (apparently)

Free lunch for the whole garage I'm guessing! $800 still sounds high, even if they *did* throw all those parts at it until it fixed the issue...

I was more interested in the overall brightness...I can't read my trip after 5:30pm lol and barely read the rest of the cluster!

Lol I just looked up playstation move..didn't know that existed! Those orb sticks look kinda stupid though...just sayin

Every rig I've put a flyer on, or met and told to visit has yet to do so

Or C tubing, or square tubing, or round tubing...these are all very good options.. There's a company about a mile from me that makes offroad stuff for jeeps, their bumpers use a combination of sheet steel and steel tube. They make the main body with two 2x4's of steel tubing, weld it all together, then add sheet steel to make it look like what the customer is looking for by welding it on and grinding it smooth. Strength where it counts, convenience where its necessary! That being said, I used only 3/16"x2"x5" rectangular tubing to make my bumper, 1/4"x2" strap for the upper mounts, and 2"x2"x3/16" square tubing for the lower mounts. Mine is completely welded together, and aside from some miter edges it is all in the form that I bought it where it matters (in the center portion where the weight will be applied during recovery) the only cut/bent/welded steel is on the wings, and those could be made out of paper for all I care, they serve two purposes 1)Protect the corners if I happen to brush up against a tree or rock, or 2) make it look perty!

You realize that to get into that deep of water, chances are at one point that intake was either heavily splashed or completely submerged, and its only 3" above the standing water..not to mention if that water WAS just a little deeper, he would have hydro locked.. You're absolutely right, he MAY not have needed it in that picture, but in the other 3,000 times he's splashed that area, he DID. I'd imagine it doesn't take a whole ton of water to lock up an engine, I'd say about a cup would do it. If I could afford one of the plastic "ready to go" setups, I'd do it...but I'm broke and quickly going into more debt (20k a year in fact )

All of the above, but the other way around! My roommate has a ps3 that when its running, it sounds like an air conditioner going full blast! Although I'm on xbox #7, they have done an amazing job of not making breakable units anymore, I've had two of the "newer" ones, my newest being the modern warfare 2 xbox (I got the best buy replacement warranty, so they basically give me store credit for how much I paid for my original xbox, and as the new units come out, I get more for my money!). Long story short, now the newer xboxs are quiet, work without issue, come with a 250gb hdd, and honestly $50 is less than I spend on mike n ikes. I've been playing xbox live for over 5 years, love the xbox configuration, prefer the game selection and can't imagine going the other way. However, I was on a week long hiatus where I was thinking I'd sell it and get a ps3...but I just played my buddy's and enjoy my xbox more. Xbox also now has the kinect feature, which although I have not added to my rig, my buddies rave about it endlessly.

Yeah, a scenario would be nice.... That being said, I can't think of many cases where there is just a piece of steel welded to another @ a 90 degree angle in a situation where this would MATTER (as in the forces being put on it in such a way that it would stress the weld to break) where the fabricator wouldn't put a gusset in to counteract any deficiencies.

I sanded mine down and repainted it years back...its holding up well (save for one spot that got scratched up pretty bad by flag mount..) I used semi-gloss black, looks good and was cheap/simple enough...I've seen one person who powdercoated theirs, and although it looked alright, I don't really see the point. I bedliner'd my new bumper, but did not use the roll on stuff that always looks wet and is really goopy, I used spray-on bedliner from walmart and it has been holding up very well, is a sandpaper feel, kinda a semi-gloss matte look. Don't paint it the color of the body, it would look weird at the very least, and you wouldn't be able to get it to match EXACTLY so it would look wrong.. Most of this post is my personal preferences, and that's what your decision will ultimately be, what YOU like....

Not sure what kind of lift you're looking at, but if you're planning on a sub frame drop kit..you'll want to wait to install skids till you're sure they will fit

Count the toes....should give you a good estimate!

I believe those spare rims are a 15x6 or less than that....intended for use with the 235 wheel set which is a 15x6 set If you have 31's you probably have legos, in which case I believe there may be a different spare tire.

Yup. These codes don't read "Knock Sensor" though..and finding that information is a PITA

I had my malibu's tires re-balanced 4 times before they got it right.. now it doesn't give me issues until about 118mph

Never too late

OSR

This scares me^ In MI you have to take a class, and I'm not sure of the apx cost.. Needless to say I'll be getting one when I turn 21

Clean off your brake booster of any grime/grease, and see if your MC is leaking right there...I know mine is, and I get a similar issue

I don't mind the Azeal, Sport Coupe, or URGE (minus the interior) In fact, I'd drive any of those three....dependent on $$

Lemme guess.. ? In my defense, the pathfinder survived with minor scrapes on the rear bumper and in a nice flexy shot to boot!