OldSlowReliable

On this show I'm watching right now on discovery, there is a mudslide on a street, and as its sliding like a mountain down the street taking out parked cars...one of which is!!!! A champagne pathfinder!!! (wd21 with some nice wheels and a pristine body!) I was so happy to see that lol

This reminded me, I know a guy that works for his dad's repo company, they only repo toys though, mainly watercraft.. His dad carrys a 9mm, and he just got his concealed carry, cause ya never know who is gonna start shooting!

Lol,thanks for the thought! If you're planning on running a body lift, then I'd wait for sliders, but don't wait too long! lol!

It wouldn't be a bad start tbh...Every time I see old pictures of my truck, I regret waiting so long to put some rocker protection on!

I finally know what codes mean what....now I can do it but the dealerships keep em secret!!

Gotta say, the guy claiming "we're family" who is later pistol whipping and shooting cars has a hypocritical mindset...imagine if that WASN'T his relative!!

I got the crazy code 55 ONCE!!!!! It was scary!!

Out of curiosity, are those battery terminals fake chrome plating over plastic? A buddy of mine's battery died with terminals just like those, and we couldn't jump it for the life of us, because there was no way to get a clear contact point without disconnecting everything and holding the wires to the terminal (not exactly SAFE) Just a thought Lights look good!

My ma's JGC throws a code constantly (knock sensor and vacuum leaks or whatever) $98 every time she takes it in... I'll take my ecu ANY day

Jimmy Hoffa?

Wow....wish they made those kinda setups for wd21's! R50 here I come!

I buy mine from a local non-chain place called Midland Steel Supply Inc. Basically a small warehouse with saws and steel racks, with an outdoor rack section for the I beams and such...and they do welding for custom orders and such Here's what I bought and how much it cost (the longer lengths were purchased in lengths of 6ft chunks) 12' of 2x2x3/16" ~ $40 12' of 3x2x3/16" ~ $48 6' of 5x2x3/16" ~ $33 I'd check local fab shops see if they have steel they want to sell, alro steel, speedymetals.com, or local metal shops..

Heres how it works You turn cruise ON via a switch on the dash You get to the speed you want Press the button on the end of the headlight stalk You are cruising (I forget which point the light comes on, I think one light comes on when you turn the system on, and another when its cruising) The coast/accelerate setting comes from the little back/forth switch on the headlight stalk

He is correct, its just a resonating tube It is actually sealed off about 2 inches in

I was just opinionat-ing along side your opinion

Lighting is lighting, doesn't serve any less of a purpose no matter how your rig is built...some people might say that IFS rigs look out of place with 33's on them....just sayin

Axles are held on by ubolts and leafsprings.... I don't know about them being STRONGER, but they really don't have to be all that strong in the first place..

I'm tellin ya, that switch will only work with constant power...unless you can use a capacitor or something, its always going to do that...although one LED has a .0000001% chance of draining your batter in less than a year either live with them coming on at start, or run them off constant power...I'm not sure if you're concerned with it draining your battery or just having a constantly hot wire....I wouldn't be concerned with either tbh

If you're running your switch on an ignition based power wire, chances are it works by using a small amount of power being supplied to keep the switch in either position, and resets when you remove all power from the switch to the ON position... I'd start by running your 12v+ from a constant source, instead of an ignition source, or atleast test it and see if that changes it...although without a good look at the switch and wiring, I'm not entirely sure Where'd you buy it btw?

So you're saying the rotors you pulled off were less than 177mm? So you pulled off a 7" rotor? Someone isn't measuring something right...

Considering any new bumper you get will most likely have its brackets, and if it doesn't, how CHEAP it is to go grab some from a pick n pull...like I said, I wouldn't bother trying to straighten them out or reuse them, too much hassle..

In Soviet Russia, Russian speaks you! (sorry, I couldn't resist!)

I'm going to take a wild guess....and say you could use a 93-95 front bumper! I wouldn't try to salvage what you have, but instead either buy it off rock auto or a junkyard, cause although the frame mounts are probably fine, I'd wager the bumper brackets are atleast somewhat bent... then I think it'll look like new!