OldSlowReliable

Teach me your ways oh great one!!!

Well, I grounded each wire (unlock and lock alike) and they both only LOCK the doors.... I finished the rest of the wiring, including the starter immobilizer..I can lock the doors with the remotes, with both the unlock and lock buttons, but nothing unlocks it.. I also HEAR the starter relay click with each button, but the truck will not start...possibly the unit knows that its not really unlocking the doors somehow and its just relocking the starter relay?....so freaking wrong!! edit-- Fixed the starter relay...when I got it, one of the wires was disconnected, I connected it how I thought I was reading to, but evidently that was the wrong slot lol.. Oddly enough, I just pulled the switch from the drivers door out, found the black/red wire and spliced into it...touched the new splice to the grounding bolt, and it unlocks....but why would the wire do two different things at two different places? I'm going to pull the wire from the passenger side to see if that does the same thing, otherwise I guess I'll be running a wire from the door to the body somehow.. double edit- wired it from the door switch....which works when I manually ground it, but when its hooked up to the security unit, the actual door switch won't unlock, and when I hit lock, the door locks go crazy unlocking/locking indefinitely... due to patching in before the timer?

I don't have a pocket, but I have a flat face surrounding where that would be

Is it this to which you refer? Last time I had it off...I coulda sworn there was some sort of black box or something behind there....hmmmm

Just checked out he FSM for a 94....it says that the wire is Black with a red stripe, just like everywhere else, this is amazing lol

I prefer 3m velcro patches, so its easily removable...heck, thats how I attached my remote unlock/alarm box under the dash! lol

Installing a remote unlock kit for my 91, bulldog security system, whatever... Got it almost all wired up, but ran into a weird issue; All the sites I go to, say that the unlock/lock wires are in the drivers kick panel, lock is black with a yellow stripe, and unlock is black with a red stripe. I found them both, right next to each other in the harness, and wired up the locking side, checked it with my voltage meter, 12v standing, when you hit lock, it grounds it and goes to 0v. I just wired up the unlock, went to test it, and it's reading 5v standing, and doesn't change when I hit unlock, but goes to 0v when I hit lock.... I'm a little confused, and very frustrated at this point.. anyone done this before who can chime in?

hmm, never seen one of those...I'll definitely check it out

Oooh, thats what I'm thinking about! Unfortunately, my wd21 is single slotted

recommendations for best place to access the ignition wiring harness under the dash?

My mother came home today with a 4 outlet hub that 3m's to the dash, and can plug in everything.....I guess it was on sale for 8 bucks... problem solved I guess lol She also came home with a remote unlock for me to figure out how to install.... :thumbsdown:yay?

A picture, as in so I can see what the part looks like/where it is located, to look it up on the parts number site found somewhere in my members ride topic (as well as a few other places)

a picture would help, atleast to identify the part number on a diagram

1) Wouldn't that draw an awful lot of power from the factory wiring? 2) The way that is placed, I can't stand the wire mess I have right now...much less with three things plugged in... 3) I just got my wisdom teeth out, and am looking for a project, as I can only drive if I don't take my painkillers, which isn't alot of fun

Just wondering if anyone has wired a few extra cigarette lighter outlets into their wd21, as well as where/how, I.E. on the dash using a 10 amp relay or whatever... Additionally, could I just splice off from the power of the factory outlet, then ground it through two more outlets? I'd think this would be bad for the small gauge wiring, and any sort of fuse along with it.... One last inquiry.. Has anybody put a series of toggle switches in their wd21? I'm going to have some hellas on the front eventually, a pair of lights out back, along with a switch for the power outlets, interior footwell lights, and lord knows what else... I was thinking either where there are usually alarm switches and such on the center console, or right below my radio on the dash...

I read 30amp is acceptable

whoopsies! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-933791061/?rtype=10

I was looking @ these, cheaper than buying 4 relays (and only like 3 more than buying two of the spst) and they are rated for 40 amps....

Not sure about your r50...but on all the cars I've run wires through, I've chosen one of the following- Clutch Plate (if available as a 5spd but equipped with an auto) Steering column, usually has a big rubber gasket that can be moved out of the way fairly easily Drill a hole, put rubber grommet in it to protect wires (its just a thin piece of steel afterall )

It will probably be easier to do the thin stuff on the body with the disk lol, but if I need to cut a 60" straight edge, I trust my hand against a tacked on rail alot more than nothing anyone else have any ideas/improvements?

Nope, those are the "lego rims" intended for use with 31x10.50x15 tires...they made chrome-style rims that typically held the 235's on em (and are about an inch thinner I believe) and I another type of spoked wheel for the LE that held 31's I think...

I'm willing to admit that I am shotty with a grinder....lol....i start off good, but then end up veering one way or the other and making a mess!

Yes, definitely... Anyone know if that PIAA single pack deal is still valid? I got on their site, they have a single pack LISTED but not for sale..

You may have to adjust the torsion bars, as well as the steering stops (mine previously had 235/75/15's, and possibly some rubbing depending on the wheels you are using, as I'm fairly certain they used different wheels for the different sized tires. I usually try and make it out to Silver lake, (actually one of my favorite places!) but didn't find the time this year....maybe next summer we could get a local run going! I'm only about 40 minutes away from Rocks and Valleys, in Harrison, so I spend alot of time there as well. Dude....that sucks! (about the transmission, I think you mentioned it before, but I forget easily lol)

The plasma cutter would be because I'd have to buy a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" steel, and would rather tack on angle iron and run the plasma cutter down for a nice straight edge, than go through 5 4" disks and have a saw blade shape The plasma cutter would also be more useful for the bumper which I would be doing at the same time, as it would cut a well shaped receiver hole as well as for turn signals