OldSlowReliable

I woulda totally built mine like this...but I didn't have access to a bender, so mine just hang out further and use the 2x3 as a step... What did you use to drill through the frame?

but you are that "genious"... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrJrw5ZZfRU

check out http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/

Yeah, I never got around to putting locktite on mine after I replaced the bumpstops...makes me nervous They only go into the balljoint, so the safest/best thing to do would be just to buy a new BJ and slap it on there...

My tranny is "going" (has been for the past 6 years) and between changing the fluid regularly and using a 22k cooler (only $50) it will stay under 180 while not moving on even the hottest days.

... When I took my tank out of the truck to weld the frame, I had the cap on properly, but the outgoing lines open to the air, and fuel leaked out (and promptly stripped the tank of all paint/coating) It did it constantly throughout the day, until I made sure the cap was off, when it didn't do it

whats your password?

I thought with a 5speed just putting it into 5th would work? I would also disengage the front hubs (if you have manuals) and like you said remove the rear shaft.. Also, you will need to remove the negative battery cable, and put a key in the ignition to on, so the steering wheel can turn freely while driving down the road.

I see them layed down on their rear edge alot too...as in the vertical edge on theopposite side of the spout

Lol, i got the same thing (but masking tape) on my drivers side from bad hinge pins!

One of mine didn't work, picked it up at the junkyard *for free* (the guy just let me go with it) Don't know if this one doesn't work..but you may as well just go to a pick n pull ...you know you're running on spare tire rims don't you?

I used to get great mpg on 235's going 55 on a 3 hour trip....but city driving usually got me 15/16mpg MAX...now with 33's, steel bumper, gear, and rock sliders....its probably around 12mpg and 14 highway (although it really hates highway except on the rare occasion that its happy...)

thats GOTTA be new... I like their rear bumpers more than the front bumpers...the fronts stick out SO far that it looks gross.

RUST.

Although I cannot comment on the r50 application as far as backspacing, I run 33x1250x15 bfg a/t's on cragar soft 8 15x8's and couldn't be happier, tire wear is good (when its in alignment lol) and you are less likely to lose a bead when running low psi

While welding my frame I siphoned all the gas out of my tank (as much as I could get) and it read it as fuel light... Go buy a $10 1 gallon thing of gas, and drive!

It won't hurt anything, and as far as I know nothing will stay there besides welding it which would be even more work than fixing it. I say leave it until you can get around to it... I'm assuming you mean the manifold is leaking...

If your looking to save cash, you could do what I did with a CAI (and I couldn't have been happier with the setup) Autozone/Oreillys (or whatever they have in CA) sell a small plastic adapter plate for air intakes, that costs like 5 USD....i had to taper out the holes a little to get it to line up, but then a cone filter just bolts on...I noticed 2-3mpg gains and what felt like a peppier throttle.

However, maybe you could be a USA distributor for their product, and get a little kickback? Its worth a shot if they are looking for that sort of thing

Yeah....definitely not cool no matter how you spin it. The only way that I can see this as being beneficial is if you are building a souped up product that they are not willing to provide (i.e. offroad ready) and sell it at a price higher than what theirs is. You would also need to have a written statement from them verifying approval as to avoid a LAWSUIT.... Engine bay braces are easy as well, and you don't have to steal ideas with that, cause its a common practice. You could have someone bulk CnC cut rings out for the bolting to the struts, and do the rest of the fab yourself.

Is it just me, or on the pic of the spare, the tire looks damaged on the outside sidewall @ the 10-11 oclock position. The line of moulding that goes around the circumference looks rather warped just right there... also barely past six oclock. Idk if its the spare tire, but its on the spare tire carrier.

How much did it cost to powdercoat your tire carrier?

Custom

Lol I did the exact same thing with drilling the holes to move the tire up, but am going to have a dude cnc cut a new bolt on part to raise it up more.... I will eventually be making 1x2x1/4" strips (two of them) welding them to the top of my tire carrier, and then put two 1/2" bolts through them welding the bolt head to the bracket....thats where i'll put the highlift.

I have factory auto hubs, so the regulars would still fit right? I'm not going to rebuild em with another set or anything