OldSlowReliable

Wow....I was just thinking how much easier so many things would be if it was a 1,2,3 thing to remove the body like that! Think how easy exhaust/frames/studs/springs/ucas/transmission/timing belt..........would be!!! You thought about swapping a new body on while you're at it? Like steal B's or something?

lol.... *pushes big red button* That was easy!

I don't mean to sound mean (hehe!) but if you need to ask that question, you probably shouldn't be doing an SAS...its more than just cut and paste. You might be able to get a shop to assemble/create your SAS for $6000 if you're lucky. That would be with leaf springs most likely and most of the bill would be in labor. I suggest going this route if you aren't a very skilled automotive dude. Calmini manufactures alot of the parts for this so you could avoid the fabrication costs. It can easily cost more than 6k if you go to a decent shop...atleast the last time I checked. Maybe set your sights a bit lower?

I think its more along the lines of 6-7 threads....its a pretty fine threading and the nuts seem to be 3/8" deep..

I have cougars next door

Lol, my thoughts exactly!

3.75" If I go over a steep but short crown hill (think of the apex of a 4' speed bump kinda deal) I can hear my CV's click for a second right at the top before the front end dips back down, but mine seem to be working fine. I also have low profile bump stops.

I live in the frozen tundra of Michigan. No pre cat here

I did that. Went to 5 different stores and finally paid $3.40 per bolt for 5 but they don't thread. They both threaded into the same nut at the hardware store but I just ruined two bolts and probably a captive nut because they refuse to thread after 2 turns and are a pain to get started. I believe I got M12x1.25 or 1.5 or something

I highly recommend the 1/4 panel chop..best thing I ever did and with a high clearance rear bumper it will be even more beneficial Plus it looks SO MUCH better

Need the specifications of the factory tow hook bolts...spend $14 on bolts that should fit but don't, and now have a broken captive nut, one ruined factory bolt, and a bunch of useless unreturnable bolts.

My speedometer gauge was warped for 3 years. Wouldn't go over 30mph unless you smacked the cluster, and it would still stick going down.. Thats the only reason I bought my malibu was my ma wouldn't let me fix it and I needed to take drivers ed test, lol. It was just sun warped towards the gauge panel and dragging, I took it apart, bent the needle a little bit back, and put a tiny drop of petroleum jelly along where it touched...never had an issue since!

I know its not in backwards (seriously? people do that? lol) I put all the tubes back on, but the most forward fender inlet has a broken push pin thing so its not sealed very well on that connection where it clips to the fender. It was most definately from the air box, but it caught my attention because it sounded like a fart can after revving the engine.

The $10 fram air filters have done good by my book, cheap and filter just fine as far as I can tell. That would make sense, my box is sort of warped and it was hard as hell to get it in there, its probably not covering an edge. Ideas on how to fix this due to a 3" body lift? I can barely lift the top half all the way off

Put the factory box on instead of my cone filter. Got a new fram air filter all set and ready, its in and everything is closed/tightened BUT I start it up, and it sounds like its running normal, but when I hit the gas to rev it up a tad, when it falls in rpms after I take my hand off the throttle, it makes this crazy fluttering sound, kind of like slowing a car down via a lower gear if you know what I mean

Yeah, I figured the slide pins weren't sliding, lol. They still had grease in em, but I put more in there anyways. I may rip it apart and put antiseize on the bolts, but they had locktight on them before and it wasn't hard to remove them (cept for 2) and antiseize worries me, sounds like "anti-tight so it falls off when you're not looking" to me, lol I worked em in pretty hard (like an online manual said) and they feel like my mom's 2003 JGC which has discs all around. On the original topic..lol.. I don't change my own oil, but I have no problem tackling brakes...if you can do basic stuff, I can almost promise you that discs won't be hard.

Thats mine....factory air box is going back in today though

Unless you live near me....sister just took her kia in for $500 just for the front. I won't be doing my DD's drums any time soon (plus they don't need it) but I did do the front discs out of neccesity (GM didn't design brakes right, so the inner pad wore down to metal and welded to the destroyed rotor while the outer pad/rotor looked brand new) $100 at autozone, lifetime pads and 1yr rotors, will get the $50 lifetime wagner rotors from oreilly next time though.

I'm on 33's and 6" of lift. I just took mine off because I don't trust it atall....I'd rather not have the modification and mpg than hydrolock the engine...my stock box has gotten me through some VERY wet situations. Mine would get little water droplets when it rained....if you do water crossings you will get it wet.

I put mine out in front....I paid for an 18k or something but they sent me a 21 or 22k....fine w/me! I ran my cooler lines through the bumper bracket holes in the support, and they are nice and out of the way, safe from danger there...installed a cheapo HF gauge which works flawlessly, and gotta change the fluid one more time yet. That cooler doesn't look too small to me....looks like the same size as mine (although I have a fin type, not tube and fin)

WOW sorry to thread jack slightly...but I missed the last sentence of your paragraph, about the repacking of hubs and such....so when RJ started talking about specialty tools and snap rings and such...I got a little scared because I just changed my brakes on my car and didn't use any of that! I was like "dang, good thing I didn't tear the brakes down this week, guess I won't be getting new brakes any time soon! lol...almost had a heart attack If you'd still like some sort of tutorial just holler, I kinda wanted to do my front brakes soon anyways

I agree, idk if I was one of those people, but to clarify- I say you keep it, (wouldn't suggest driving it much, I'd be terrified to actually) and rebuild the rear frame....one solid weekend (aside from prep) should get you all squared away for another 15 years I thought it looked like 2x4 tubing from when I relocated my rear bumper...midland steel in (where else) midland sold me 3x2 for about 25 bucks per 6', and 5x2 for 33 bucks for 6' about 60 bucks in steel, 20 in paint, and figure 40 in welding supplies (depending on welder) and you're set!

More on this 2x2 frame patch?

Autozone has cheap (around or less than $20) shocks Gabriels I think

There have been bad reports of ball joint spacers causing issues with the rest of the assembly during offroad, just an fyi if you didn't know. I bought a pair of 3" lift springs intended for an XJ for $45 used off gl4x4, cut the pigtail off and they worked great. Keep an eye out for those kind of deals if you intend to go bigger on the front end, as your 4dr and tire carrier will definately reduce lift from jgc springs