OldSlowReliable

got 2 inches. melted two days later....UGH

Yeah....in the words of one of the greatest people alive (my old printing teacher lol) My time is worth more than my money. Hence why I bought two new calipers when only one was being a pain in the ass....saves tons of time for only a couple bucks

In other words.. either a BFH or a BFS (big freakin screwdriver)

I too have a leak of some level there...I summed it up to a worn out seal between the two, and will replace it when the time comes. If it is either one needing replacing, I'd assume it to be the master cylinder, as opposed to the booster

I got new wheels and tires on my DD 98 malibu. All brand new from belle tire... it would shake at 77 slightly...took it back for a rebalance, it got worse, took it back for a alignment and balance, got a bit better, but still worse than the first time, finally took it back again, and now it doesn't shake at 115mph.. gotta be persistant, also make sure they are using a hunter road force machine, I have had good luck with the shops that do..

WOW, you got a great truck for 700 bones!! any pathy around me, gotta pay 1500 for something like this- and no matter what the CL ad says...that will NOT buff out!

Another good idea- Take both drums off first, and see if one side is demolished (as in all the parts in disarray) so you can then reference the good side when reassembling.

Well if I'm not mistaken, that rules out the bearings, atleast in my experience with bearing noise it does...

If you want, there's a junkyard about 30 miles south of me that last time I was there, they had a pathfinder with nice looking black plastic spacers on the rear roof speakers, the speakers were gone, but I could tell it was there for clearance issues; I could grab em if you still have an issue.

11:28 on 11/28 lol, I just noticed that...sorry Happy secret santa day! [i can't enter, just to clarify]

I'm almost certain its your bearings..

I wasn't about to worry! Lol So my brakes WORK...I got it all together, bled a fair bit of air (to be expected, put new calipers on) but- I went for a drive to break em in a bit like I've done with my other brake jobs, and it seems like the pedal is soft and goes a bit too far (but still brakes efficiently) on the first press, but if I press it again, it is firm and can easily make my front tires howl... I think its either the rear drums adjusting, then applying the brake, or the master cylinder is shot, but I'm not sure... The soft pedal did remedy over the brake in period, and I am running ceramic pads...but I don't see how they need to warm up THAT much, or how taht would account for the double tap syndrome

I put both of them beveled edge in..lol, I don't see how it would cause any issues, but I'll rip it apart over winter break and fix it to be safe..

Cool, I definitely think I overtightened it now, as I used a screwdriver and a 12" 1/2" ratchet extension to really tighten it down, which in hindsight was not a wise choice. Out of "curiosity" which way does the lock nut go on? One side has a tapered edge, the other does not... this picture makes it look like the inner edge has the taper-

Tapped the seal in on my way to taco bell, set the old one on top, one tap and it was in..easy! I use chilton manuals, they are free to michigan residents online for all vehicles that chilton makes them for, and I couldn't find a section on the reassembly of that locknut, but for some reason 5lbs sounds right, cause I remember reading like 78-86 ft inches of torque...we will see My bearings looked great, as did my seals but I wanted to do one just to get it done for practice, so I repacked em with grease and put em back in. Still gotta find somewhere who stocks the hub bolts, considering I kinda demolished one of mine

I guess I'll be stripping down the passenger side tomorrow

so would the wheel still rotate if it was too tight?

I used to work as a veterinary surgeon assistant, and get the occasional kickback for repairing my family's cars (I usually get 50% the cost of parts, or 50% what labor was quoted at the shop) For a while I was doing graphic design, as well as the occasional photography gig...made a fair buck doin that....but its been a while since I've done regular designing due to other priorities. Now I'm a college bum...just about poor, and jobless, but gonna hopefully find a job on the stretch of road where theres about 10 dealerships, 6 quick oil changes, and 5 auto parts stores right outside of campus for the spring/summer.

Yeah, I was initially trying to unseat it from itself on the outside lip (didn't realize how it was setup) until I looked up the part online @ autozone and saw how it comes out... Got it out, got all the parts wiped off (putting new Valvoline grease in) One of my caliper pistons wouldn't compress, so I said screw it, and bought two new ones, under 35 bucks a piece, and will make it go a bit quicker, as well as hopefully improve brake performance a little. Bought some C-max ceramic brake pads that are THICK!!! Question #193232.5- Scenario- Passenger caliper won't compress, brake pads are about 1/4" thick, outsides thicker than insides, inside rotor face was pitted and flaking Drivers caliper would compress, brake pads were well under 1/16" and flaking off at the ends... For quite a while, the truck would pull to the drivers side under heavy breaking (it would do it sometimes in light braking as well), and it sounds to me like this was the malfunctioning passenger side caliper.. The actual question- Would all this account for a squishy/softish pedal? Is there something that I can do to keep this crap from happening again? Update--- Drivers side is DONE (aside from bleeding) -ps, how can I tell how tight to get the washer thing that holds the outer bearing in solid? I got it tight, the rotor didn't wiggle or anything, and now that its all put together, it rotates with the same amount of resistance as I previously can remember... Passenger side needs the seal to FIT, aside from that, its all greased up and ready to be reinstalled, I need to just work on the caliper torsion bracket for a bit tonight(regrease/replace slide pins and boots) and I'll finish it up tomorrow morning.. Tips for the seal install?

I definately have to replace one right now....lol....still gotta get it out though

Cool...and I finally got that stupid freakin rotor separated....long story This seal on the backside of the hub...DOES it come out? I don't want to rip it out, and find out its irreplaceable.. it doesn't budge, save for the circular spring tucked into it....

Got any tips on repacking? (as in how, lol)

Unfortunately, This may or may not happen as I need to get this on the road by tomorrow, and all the auto stores are closed (so I also can't get my autozone pads until tomorrow, but I want to get the hub/rotors on tonight... Got some advice if I decide to? What kinda grease? Currently the grease in there is dark brown and the one rubber seal that I see is in great condition (looking from the back of the rotor assembly?)

Got the sucker out! I tried the screwdriver crap...snapped HALF the head off, halfway down the section (not clean off) and the drill bit couldn't bite enough or get it centered, so I used the grinder to take off the head within a 64th of the hub surface, tried drilling on that, but the bits couldn't get any ground in what was left of the extractor. Put an awl in the seam of the hub where it separates, hit it with a hammer. Pried the cover off, which pried the remaining head off, the shank was FINGER LOOSE when I got the cover completely off...lol good thing to Got the hub disassembled, including the pesky snap ring thing..one last question How/where does the lug nut assembly that contains the outer bearing and such separate from the rotor? I have removed the 6 bolts that are in between each lug nut, but this thing seems like its practically welded to the rotor...

I'm assuming Brakleen is a brand name of brake cleaner...in which case NO! There was a HUGE article circulating the 4x4 sites and welding sites about a dude who either died, or was severely paralyzed due to welding on "dry" brake cleaner residue...all it took was a little puff of smoke.. I wanted to post that up incase someone else reads it and gets the idea to weld after cleaning with brake cleaner... just sayin