OldSlowReliable

Wow, I gotta look into getting fixed lenses! I am getting a 55-200 for xmas that was atleast 200!

I live in midland, but go to college in kalamazoo there's a member, goes by "DOA" who is somewhere near you, I know he's a tiny bit south of detriot

If they'd fit a 91, i'd buy em in a heartbeat! But, assuming 91/95 are interchangeable as they always are, they would not fit lol

I thought our frames were apx 1/8" exactly? I can't remember if I used 3/16" or 1/8", but I think I used 1/8".... Just saying, thats quite a price for such thin steel

I kinda watched a vid or two on youtube, but it really wasn't too difficult (I used some when cutting up my 1/4 panel) mix it, spread it over the area in a rough estimation of the desired shape, let it cure, sand it down a bit, clean, apply a thin skim of the smooth stuff over a slightly larger area to "feather" it into the shape, let it cure, sand it smooth, paint, done but reconsidering it, unless you have a good way to paint it to match, you might as well do a quick fix, i.e. a rubber stopper or silicon.....its basically a question of how thorough do you wish to be?

Less than 1/8"....I'll pass

I'm partial to bondo-glass...to "bridge the gap" so to speak, and some light bondo to smooth it over

Um....you started out right, but I think you got a little confused at the end 35% is darker than 70%, as you said, they are named by how much light they let IN, lower percentage=darker, hence why 5% is "limo-tint" now, "a tint of 70%" would let 30% of the light through, but this is colloquially termed as "a 30 percent tint" 20% tint means only 20% of the light is passing through (as I've ever seen it labeled or called) which, albeit not impossible to see, does make quite a difference! Lower the number, darker the shade...unless you are referring to how much tint the tint material is supplying (and therefore not in how it is branded and sold) whew....my brain hurts...

well I found out I can rent a plasma cutter for 44 bucks a day, or 100 a week.....not bad, meaning I would be making it out of 1/8" steel for rigidity, and making a \__/ shaped pan instead of I__I for the oem look.....and if I'm doing this fix, I may as well build a new rear bumper to match the front!

Whereabouts in michigan are you? Welcome by the way

Yeah, nevertheless, they got me thinking again! Oddly enough, the rest of my floors are pristine (save for one corner of my fuel access hatch that has a rust hole)

I find you also have to set it to sort by "relevance" instead of "last updated"...otherwise you ALWAYS get poho lol :coffee!:

So looking at adamzan's new pics of his rust repair, it dawned on me... If one was so inclined for a little extra storage space, could they cut out under the rear seats (probably about 10" from front to back total) and insert a box of sorts, weld it in, repairing the rust and creating a storage bin area for things like recovery straps, jacks, fluids, etc... I can't easily go look under my truck, but if I'm not mistaken, the closest thing would probably be the driveshaft and/or parking cables in that area, which could easily be dealt with by separating the box into two sides with a portion of normal depth steel in the middle (also increasing rigidity) Mind you I have a 3" body lift.. This kinda just dawned on me...and it would add a fair bit of space, considering it would basically be enough room to devote it solely to the *safe and secure* relocation of most of the equipment I carry on the trail

See, but even with their plate, you'd still have to modify it (does it look THIN to anyone else?) Theres a body mount right smack dab in the middle of that back portion....you'd have to mod ONE of them

Under those cases, I'd rebuild the entire rear frame rails for safety and durability...300 bucks is most of the price of a NICE and NEW welder... I'd be willing to pay 160 per side for 2x4 tubing notched/bent to shape....but not a plate that just covers a side.. I am, however, interested in how FAR back it goes....and how it passes the body mounts, as maybe they would do a "half kit" and just sell the rear portion..

however tempting (i have some PITA holes around rear body mount)....I don't know how justified $160 would be...per side never the less

I'd be into an A pillar gauge pod....but they would have to sink it really far, I don't want to get poked in the eye and I'd have to add a potentiometer/transistor or something similar to tone them all down at once....hmmmmmm

I tend to prefer the grinder approach

hey, I just referenced that! Alright, I need those blue LED's up there!!! GIMME!

sounds like you just need to go for some longer drives...or probably even let it warm up more in the morning instead of jumping in and going..

But couldn't not allowing it to warm up, and condensation cause that same effect adam? Have you been making a ton of short trips without letting it run for a bit recently with the cold weather?

wow...that rear air duct would have been nice through my childhood!!

Do you like your gsx-r? I've been looking at getting a 600 or so (they really are cheap as heck), are they comfy? I'd be riding a sport for the first time, usually prefer cruisers (ppl want WAY too much for any cruiser) Mind you, I weigh 265lbs and am 5'7"... WELCOME

I had this issue on my tow hook bolt's captives.....I wedged a crowbar in between the bolt head and mounting surface, then forced it up with a floorjack....ripped out the threads and all

I think its just saying you will have decreased brake performance with larger tires...as I've never heard of such a thing being an issue with ANY car