OldSlowReliable

Yup, I just went back to the warn site and reread it. I had misread it before.... Thanks silverton!

I just about can guess the answer to this question, but here it goes. 94 d21 with warn manual hubs. Can they be put on my 91 wd21? I'm pretty sure the d21 had a v6, as well as my wd21 has a v6.

Lol, bummer, I was gonna offer to buy the 4.6 new diff How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking (j/y price of pumpkin and/or price of axle) )

^ agreed, I had to really try to get the right amount of lift outta mine....to get it even close to even up, it required them resting 1/4" off the stock bump stops, low pros and its cranked to the same on those for a pretty even setup. I have considered several times swapping sides so the bumpstop on the UCA isn't used, but then I would probably hurt my shock and such and it wouldn't help me much

I've heard of draining it that way, but as far as filling it, I believe our pump creates pressure, not a vacuum so it won't pick fluid back up, only spit it through the OUT pipe. I modified a piece of rubber siphon tubing to fit into the dipstick tube and simply put a funnel in the other end, then hung the funnel from the open hood via coat hanger and pour in 4.5 qt or so (I only drained pan via drain plug)

You could build a little upside down U over where the CV shaft goes out of bent tubing, put tabs on it like a inverted shock hoop, and then run the rest of it much further up, maybe even trim into the wheel well/engine bay to get the distance needed

Lol...this is when I wish I owned a heep (jeep lol) cause making a jeep bumper is pretty straight forward, the frame is right there, they bolt up easy and its amazingly easy to make the mounts. I got it done, reused the originals, drilled out the drivers side captive nut and drilled through the frame for both (one had already broken free) and they hold REALLY well. took it to the welder and he welded it all up nice and straight. With the upper mounts my worst fears are real, the combo of lower mounts that angle up and upper mounts that angle down makes it nearly impossible to get the bumper on/off, but with how I cut the uppers, and taking a hammer to the lower edge of the original stock mounts, I was able to get it so they just barely clearance correctly. Gotta clean up the trailer-hitch dude's welds a bit, and it should be good to pull from. I won't pull from the recently welded side, as I can't quite tell how good he welded it, but it should be perfect.

walmart spray on bedliner, lol.

^^ pictures/howto?!?!?! Did you break your pads in correctly? I just put new pads on my malibu (ceramic lifetime replacement from autozone with cheapo rotors) broke them in nicely, and they work great (only did front disks) You could be experiencing green fade

The travel doesn't actually change, as said above, it just shifts it so you have less down travel and more up travel, but still the same 7 inches or so

Front...I thought I said that but I guess not!

I'd take sand over rust flakes any day! Whenever I take my truck to the car self wash I just make sure to stick the nozzle in the frame back there for a bit, almost always runs clear now

I can't help much, but you should definitely take some pictures of the front end setup, I've always been curious

The upper bolts on the stock bumper mounting brackets if that makes sense. I found the stock ones for the purpose of getting the truck to the welder, but I don't exactly trust them in the long run. Atleast now I can go to the store and try to eye-match them as a last resort.

You won't benefit from them by just lifting, You would need to lift so much that you would need lower bump stops or bj spacers to where the lower shock mount would be traveling lower than usual.

This again, lol Thread/pitch of the upper bumper mounting captive nuts. I had bolts that fit great on the lowers, but for some reason they only thread in 1 or 2 times before they freeze up cold. Plus I just bought a 13 dollar ratcheting wrench to fit in there.

I heard 7.5" @ the wheel

although I'm not one to talk about waiting to modify a vehicle, there is something to be said for wheeling it stock for a few months before you starting doing the heavy duty mods. Like others have said, if you are eager to start wheelin now and think you will still want to modify it later (and don't plan on using it as a highway commuter) I would start with ARMOR. Sure, you could modify it w/lockers and meaty tires, but it will only make more work for you in the long run (and you won't forgive yourself) if you can drive places that will only get you more stuck with body damage...thats just my take on it. It sounds like you are going to want something similar to what I run. 33x1250x15 tires on 15x8 rims, 3" body lift with 3" suspension lift. I used XJ rough country front springs for lifting the rear of my truck, and Rough Country upper control arms to correct the ball joint angle in the front with low profile bump stops. Unless you want to spend a few grand or are a master fabricator, this is really close to the best you can do (aside from acquiring a trailmaster 4" lift and combining that with the 3" body lift and 3" suspension lift). Now, if you have that kind of money, I'd suggest a 4 link or trilink front end, a sbc350 swap, roll cage, bumpers, winch, arb lockers, sliders, and 37s on beadlocks. I can dream!

The nice thing about using the inline temp gauge stuff, is that if you please, you can run a pre-cooler gauge and a post-cooler gauge, this way you can tell if your cooler is doing its job at any given time, and hopefully spot a bad setup/cooler before something bad happens.

I'm still partial to pepsi can blue I've always liked (on the pathfinder) that gun metal grey color, and the forest green on some year XJ special edition. "Moss Green Pearlcoat" Thats the green color i <3

Haven't touched the truck in two weeks Since I broke a captive nut, I'll look and see if I can drill through the other side and just run a extra long bolt, and I'll see about the new pitch and such

I swear thats what I got.....maybe I accidentally got 1.5 instead....there goes 14 bucks!

Heres what you do. 1) Go to harbor freight 2) Buy a temp gauge for under $20 3) Buy a wiring splice/connector kit for under $10 4) Go to lowes 5) In the plumbing section, get a bunch of brass fluid connectors (you will need about 6)to make a T (I can get you a picture of my setup) and some of that nifty teflon tape 6) Cut the rubber "to cooler" line and insert T fitting with gauge sender in it. Ground sender to power steering line retainer bracket bolt right there. 7) Follow wiring diagram on gauge instructions to wire everything. I wired my gauge power by using a splice fitting (really nifty thing) on my cigarette lighter (only on when key is turned) and the backlight is wired via same kind of fitting to the dash light dimmer dial (only on with headlights) I have the HF gauge on my motorcycle AND on my pathfinder. I wired the pathy and it works flawlessly, the previous owner of my motorcycle wired it in wrong and didn't protect the sender wires so there is something wrong with it (gauge is not at fault) so you should definately start there.

Bump? I can't move the car until I get this figured out, lol!

Mine jiggles left and right. hehe It doesn't move up and down, and it doesn't hit the fenders, but at highway speeds it just gets moving a tiny bit either way...I summed it up to bad aerodynamics and a 20 y.o. car!