OldSlowReliable

Heres what you do. 1) Go to harbor freight 2) Buy a temp gauge for under $20 3) Buy a wiring splice/connector kit for under $10 4) Go to lowes 5) In the plumbing section, get a bunch of brass fluid connectors (you will need about 6)to make a T (I can get you a picture of my setup) and some of that nifty teflon tape 6) Cut the rubber "to cooler" line and insert T fitting with gauge sender in it. Ground sender to power steering line retainer bracket bolt right there. 7) Follow wiring diagram on gauge instructions to wire everything. I wired my gauge power by using a splice fitting (really nifty thing) on my cigarette lighter (only on when key is turned) and the backlight is wired via same kind of fitting to the dash light dimmer dial (only on with headlights) I have the HF gauge on my motorcycle AND on my pathfinder. I wired the pathy and it works flawlessly, the previous owner of my motorcycle wired it in wrong and didn't protect the sender wires so there is something wrong with it (gauge is not at fault) so you should definately start there.

Bump? I can't move the car until I get this figured out, lol!

Mine jiggles left and right. hehe It doesn't move up and down, and it doesn't hit the fenders, but at highway speeds it just gets moving a tiny bit either way...I summed it up to bad aerodynamics and a 20 y.o. car!

Wow....I was just thinking how much easier so many things would be if it was a 1,2,3 thing to remove the body like that! Think how easy exhaust/frames/studs/springs/ucas/transmission/timing belt..........would be!!! You thought about swapping a new body on while you're at it? Like steal B's or something?

lol.... *pushes big red button* That was easy!

I don't mean to sound mean (hehe!) but if you need to ask that question, you probably shouldn't be doing an SAS...its more than just cut and paste. You might be able to get a shop to assemble/create your SAS for $6000 if you're lucky. That would be with leaf springs most likely and most of the bill would be in labor. I suggest going this route if you aren't a very skilled automotive dude. Calmini manufactures alot of the parts for this so you could avoid the fabrication costs. It can easily cost more than 6k if you go to a decent shop...atleast the last time I checked. Maybe set your sights a bit lower?

I ride a 2006 honda rebel...so it says Rebel in flame font on the side of the gas tank....people always ask me "why you put that on there? thats kinda a tool-ish thing to do" and I smack them. Story over.

I think its more along the lines of 6-7 threads....its a pretty fine threading and the nuts seem to be 3/8" deep..

I have cougars next door

Sounds like a smart kid buying a reliable, safe, cheap wd.. Idk bout his state, but in mine a minor can title and own a vehicle as long as they're over 16 (I legally own my motorcycle) so even if his mom wanted to sell it technically she couldn't if he had titled it correctly either shes a total control freak who trusts her son home alone but not to own a vehicle...or she's lying and it has something horribly wrong with it lol Lets all send her an email trying to talk her out of it

Lol, my thoughts exactly!

3.75" If I go over a steep but short crown hill (think of the apex of a 4' speed bump kinda deal) I can hear my CV's click for a second right at the top before the front end dips back down, but mine seem to be working fine. I also have low profile bump stops.

I live in the frozen tundra of Michigan. No pre cat here

I did that. Went to 5 different stores and finally paid $3.40 per bolt for 5 but they don't thread. They both threaded into the same nut at the hardware store but I just ruined two bolts and probably a captive nut because they refuse to thread after 2 turns and are a pain to get started. I believe I got M12x1.25 or 1.5 or something

I highly recommend the 1/4 panel chop..best thing I ever did and with a high clearance rear bumper it will be even more beneficial Plus it looks SO MUCH better

Need the specifications of the factory tow hook bolts...spend $14 on bolts that should fit but don't, and now have a broken captive nut, one ruined factory bolt, and a bunch of useless unreturnable bolts.

My speedometer gauge was warped for 3 years. Wouldn't go over 30mph unless you smacked the cluster, and it would still stick going down.. Thats the only reason I bought my malibu was my ma wouldn't let me fix it and I needed to take drivers ed test, lol. It was just sun warped towards the gauge panel and dragging, I took it apart, bent the needle a little bit back, and put a tiny drop of petroleum jelly along where it touched...never had an issue since!

woot! My mom wanted to move to seattle....not now! I wonder why there was such a theft spree... I guess we should watch for new ppl joining from seattle with a 5 colored pathy lol

I know its not in backwards (seriously? people do that? lol) I put all the tubes back on, but the most forward fender inlet has a broken push pin thing so its not sealed very well on that connection where it clips to the fender. It was most definately from the air box, but it caught my attention because it sounded like a fart can after revving the engine.

The $10 fram air filters have done good by my book, cheap and filter just fine as far as I can tell. That would make sense, my box is sort of warped and it was hard as hell to get it in there, its probably not covering an edge. Ideas on how to fix this due to a 3" body lift? I can barely lift the top half all the way off

Put the factory box on instead of my cone filter. Got a new fram air filter all set and ready, its in and everything is closed/tightened BUT I start it up, and it sounds like its running normal, but when I hit the gas to rev it up a tad, when it falls in rpms after I take my hand off the throttle, it makes this crazy fluttering sound, kind of like slowing a car down via a lower gear if you know what I mean

You won't lose your truck because a tire sticks out. I used to be worried about that crap too, but then I figured the worst they will probably do is a fix-it ticket at first. Test the waters...its really the only way you'll know

Yeah, I figured the slide pins weren't sliding, lol. They still had grease in em, but I put more in there anyways. I may rip it apart and put antiseize on the bolts, but they had locktight on them before and it wasn't hard to remove them (cept for 2) and antiseize worries me, sounds like "anti-tight so it falls off when you're not looking" to me, lol I worked em in pretty hard (like an online manual said) and they feel like my mom's 2003 JGC which has discs all around. On the original topic..lol.. I don't change my own oil, but I have no problem tackling brakes...if you can do basic stuff, I can almost promise you that discs won't be hard.

Thats mine....factory air box is going back in today though

Unless you live near me....sister just took her kia in for $500 just for the front. I won't be doing my DD's drums any time soon (plus they don't need it) but I did do the front discs out of neccesity (GM didn't design brakes right, so the inner pad wore down to metal and welded to the destroyed rotor while the outer pad/rotor looked brand new) $100 at autozone, lifetime pads and 1yr rotors, will get the $50 lifetime wagner rotors from oreilly next time though.