OldSlowReliable

Personally for the price/effort of doing that, I would do the military buggy thing, and have a rack on the back to carry 4 or more jerry cans.......it would be easier, more successful, and you could customize it better. BUT I believe that one of the OZies was trying to adapt a patrol tank into an aux tank, and you could work something out easier if you have a 3" BL...

I'll be interested in where the $$ comes from.....I know I go about broke keeping mine in moderate condition (I battle rust though), and I make a fair amount of money that goes straight to the pathy....idk how much rust is on yours, but if one thing could kill a restore its rust repairs, THEY SUCK THE LIFE OUTTA YA! Personally I'd kill to have a completely rust free truck (like one or two on here right now) and make it just a nice wheeler than do what you plan....seems like overkill for a mallcrawler..

Yeah, I was thinking 2x2x either 1/4 3/16 or 1/8" for the lower part, and not having to incorporate both stock bolt spots makes it SO MUCH EASIER! Plus, you can buy 20+ feet of 2x2 and use it for that AND sliders

I would of never guessed they only used 1 bolt on the stock place, although that would make my bumper build ALOT simpler...

Haha! I'm not one of those! But don't make the rest of us look bad!!

sounds like your harness is bad, but thats just me, cause if you were muckin round back there and the rest stopped working its probably not working right.....is it both sides or one side?

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/215705 they look like what this guy calls a cobra body kit....kinda

idk but i like em ALOT more than oem

The install/review I read had the same issue and the guy just used a hacksaw to take 1/8" off...

tons of guys around me have put 4bt's in samurais and trackers, it would fit!

I gotta replace the passenger side spindle anyways (don't trust it with a notch in the side) so after I get my motorcycle fitted out, i'll just replace the spindles/bushings/balljoints/bumpstops/sleeves

Yup, sleeves are 1/8 too long (i'm assuming it has to do with hardbody vs pathy?) I couldn't remove my old sleeves (and notched the passenger side spindle with the grinder after trying to cut them off....) so on my drivers side they were so rusted on, I just sanded them down smooth and shiny, and slapped the bushings on, worked GREAT... WARNING, This issue with the sleeves being too long makes it almost impossible to get the right brand of torque on it, so they will come loose, I check mine every time I check my oil now. 50 miles after my lift, both nuts on the pass side were finger loose, and let it slide 1/4" to one side.....torque your bolts SOON

http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/Fram-Sure-Drain-Oil-Change-System/750898/10002/-1

Although the winch mount could be easily modified, heck, you could do it with some grade 8 bolts, a drill, and an angle grinder... Really, you won't really gain any clearance from having the rock sliders higher w/a body lift, cause the frame is still @ the same height. I would get em close to the rockers right now, as protection, but make them so when the body is 3" higher, it can be a nice step...

1- I hate you for your lack of rust. 2- Thats exactly like my truck.....15 years ago 3- Welcome! It looks awesome, no matter how jealous I am

8x18 16g @ lowes for 9 dollars, 4x4 sheets for like 20-40 bucks

I was just planning on using the drain plug to avoid mess, but that could work too...

got the sensor all squared away, got the cooler mounted (no hosing done yet) and now I forget which side is IN or OUT, i know i gotta put the out from the cooler on top (so the line going back to the tranny goes on the top) but i can't remember if its the drivers side or passenger side.... GAR

I actually have a harbor freight gauge, but I will probably still have to do that..

My sensor is electric, and I'm ordering the cooler/fitting right now. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60381/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15270/10002/-1 I hope it all works out, and that it gets here on time....spring break is ending fast...

Belle Tire mounted my 33's on rims I brought in, put all my stock tires in bags in the back of the pathy, and showed me exactly where the tires rubbed and where I had to trim in 15 minutes, then took 2 minutes to re-torque all my wheels when they had all their bays full... I LOVE belle tire and will get my new malibu rims from them... Walmart on the other hand does pretty good as far as oil changes for me go, and work well when I'm buying a battery or something, but SUCK for any cheap. They are great about it (gave me free balancing b/c they didn't have the right weights, had to use adhesives on the spare tire) but w/one bay in use, it took them well over 30 minutes to mount 1 tire that I brought in empty rim to have it put on.... Discount tire I have mixed experiences, although I got a tire for my sister's car for 10 bucks and it has more tread than my stock pathy or the malibu's tires.

Here is my lift costs and such, I run 3+3=33's XJ 3" Rough country Lift Springs- $45 used local Front Rough Country UCA's- $210 from a private shop w/o the shocks 3" Body Lift- $145 www.4x4parts.com

I didn't have to, only when I have the flares on did it require about an inch of trimming on the very bottom (not showing) edge to stop it from rubbing...I also only got like 1.5-2" of lift outta my front (still gotta crank)