OldSlowReliable

you will wear through a set of those swampers in one summer....no joke BUT after they are bald, you can literally cut another 20k out of em (hot knife the tread to create new tread)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91056 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM161985399P?keyword=keyless+chuck http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP100A2997S159715916P?keyword=keyless+chuck http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM211697474P?keyword=keyless+chuck

where the heck does one buy this crap

jeeze, I woulda cut it up for comp rear fenders and a truck back end!

Oh, btw....I think I got my bumper brackets down... Im going to use 3x1/4" bar and mount it to the stock 2 bolt locations, and have it go straight up, then i'm going to drill 3 holes and weld nuts onto the back of each hole. Then use another piece of the same material with corresponding holes, going perpendicular out the bumper holes to the steel bar that I will have as my bumper That should help alot with removal

http://nates4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=77&osCsid=6a417f94199786b7b790f2863670fbab build something like that, its really easy to do....i'm doing something similar as my bumper, and may do this style in the future...

Ditto, I paid no shipping from JEGS and they were here in 4 days They look good, they are cheap.

I always get the warranty, even with my 20 dollar sawzall that has worked great so far, and also with my welder that has worked wonderful. If it fails I will probably buy the 50 dollar one later on, but right now its about what I can spend in one sitting, and if it works and saves me the $$ im happy

I trust their tools and their saws... I don't see how it could really be of lower quality, either it works or it doesn't which will be obvious, and either way it will be better than nothing...and i'd rather put the saved money to a better cooler than have a gauge that cost more than the cooler

harbor freight has temp gauges for 20 bucks per with wiring/mount and sensor. I grabbed one.

You can get a pre-bent tailpipe (muffler back) for 32 bucks from oreilly's auto parts, just to put it into perspective..

I used to get around 23 for the 150 mile trip to the dunes, but I just took a 40 mile trip to an offroad park, and got about 10 mpg cause it was uphill, against the wind, on 33s, soaring at 3500 rpm going 65. I'm to broke to afford full tanks on the pathfinder but when i do, I know im not getting good mileage, also considering I got leaky manifolds and it runs rich...

now, would I have to make new bumper brackets, or do you think the stock ones (moved and braced for 3" BL of course) would hold up?

Yeah, I mostly meant just for looks until I could get something CNC cut for it

wow, really? I would have never guessed that they used the stock two bolts on the frame, I did however know about the brushguard ones... Do you think for a bumper with just d-rings (no winch) the regular bumper location would work, atleast until I could fab something up to reach to the tow hook? Thickness of metal used on ARB factory bumper mount spot?

So I'm going to make a front bumper w/stinger and D-rings over spring break, got the bumper plans all set and a plan down, but I'm at a lost for mounting it... I may tie it into the tow hook stuff with a plate that would run down as a kind of extra skid, but aside from that I don't really have a clue how I should mount it to the actual frame through the front... How do they mount ARB's there? Or even how have you all done it

check out the wiring to them in the 1/4 panel, perhaps a wire de-soldered from the socket and is causing it to not light when power is being sent to it. If your problem is what I think it is, chances are its either the fuse or that, MAYBE even perhaps the filament for that brightness isn't working...

firestone has a lifetime warranty, and sears will honor it for 6 months

i don't think my spedometer even goes up to 100....lol damn VG's

yup, for folding the seats down, you hook em on there then fold down, when you fold back up you don't have to dig for belts

If you want to save some time/money/effort, i'm working on building a winch mount like kiwipete's and can give you ideas Here are cheaper sliders http://www.trail-gear.com/rocksliders.html

it looks like an over-inflated tire, the sides don't look nearly as bad

cost of materials (more/less common= diff price) more demand for 3" kit means they can order more of them from builder, better price when ordering means better price for you.

honestly, if thats the only rust, it would cost me over 1500 here in michigan....but out there with so many to choose from, you could probably talk him down to 500 depending on how saavy he is..

I more meant how sagged my old stocks were, I used the same springs as you (rough country right?)