OldSlowReliable

yeah, I saw that too....kinda exciting should they decide to make it ORV capable w/2 solid axles

YEAH?! Well...WELL.....I know where the smo part of your name comes from now!!!! TAKE THAT... :coffee!:

I like heated seats for michigan winters.....especially when i've spent alot of time working outside... As far as power....I have them in my malibu and I HATE IT! You can never get the seat to feel like its in the right spot, cause its a 6 way movement seat, but in my pathfinder it always feels just right....

check to see if the front drive shaft is turning...may help to get someone else to look while you drive or vise versa

I've gone through some crazy water crossings this summer, and I really didn't get any water in the cab, even though I literally crossed a pond the size of a football field that was a good 14" up my doors...(i think i was floating lol) and that didn't put any water in my cab... But, I did have a runin with a waterhole being dug deeper by someone, and the nose dove down completely under water, and up to the windsheild. Luckily it dove back up within a few feet, but it nearly hydrolocked my engine, and water was pouring in through the passenger side footwell by that little black module (actually dripping DOWN into the cab) and of course in the hole under my rear seats.. I should also add, that I don't have ANY holes in my drivers floor pans, but when I did my BL, my carpet and insulation was SOAKED. Couldn't figure out why, never did!

Don't feel SO bad, for years when I was younger, I thought the oil dipstick was the ATF dipstick, cause on all the cars I was shown, it was the passenger side...mind you, I was under the age of 12..

I fit my shackle in just fine, and its BEEFY.....only ever had trouble getting an actual TOW rope in, with the hook and all

my thoughts exactly.....2800 isn't enough....maybe 28000.... My recovery strap is rated for WAY more than 2800

what kind of shackles? D ring shackles? Rated for...? I don't use one up front (although I could, I have no issues with the stock tow hook, and its a heck of a lot quicker), but I bought some army surplus ones that are kinda hard to get on/off, but are rated for an insane amount of force, and I got em on those "don't recover with those" bracket things...lol, but I'm lucky and the only time I have ever had to get pulled, its been from getting high centered and just needed a little tug to get rolling...

did we have power seats?

heated seats

Don't trust your fuel gauge (or odometer if you have larger tires) I know my speedometer and odometer are about 15% off or so, so I compensate my miles I use.... On the previous note, my fuel gauge sometimes will go from full to 1/2 in no time atall, but stay at 1/2 for a week, then jump down to 1/4 or less, they are unreliable to say the least! Fill up. Drive while keeping trip miles. Fill up. Divide!

Just to comment, my 3" BL over stock felt HUGE....3" SL after BL was meh (could feel it but not as much), and vs the apx 2-3" that I supposedly got from 33's, I could almost NOT feel that lift.....and now that i've driven on 33's for a bit, its hard to even imagine how low it was stock :S

My accident happened after I had been lifting up each different side of the axle (to get other side to droop more) and I guess after a couple times, when I grabbed onto the frame rails to lower myself onto the tire to sit down and get to work, it slid off..... CHECK YOUR STANDS!

Personally, I put my floor jack under the rear diff, and lifted it up....lol....and since I was doing my rear springs, I put the floor jacks under the frame rails, but it actually fell off the stands somehow, so unless you have a decent (and tall) set of stands, idk why you couldn't just put the stands under the rear axle?

K thanks

idk if you tried, but on mine I gotta have the headlights on to have the foglights on. Check to see if the light fixture is plugged in....

alot of those are like that, including mine. how much of a PITA was it to drop the tank?

How thick are the 1/4 panels and rocker panels?

just sayin, if it were me I wouldn't want to drive around on retapped balljoints... for future reference- http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPH0/K9022.oap?year=1991&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1211892&keyword=upper+ball+joint&partType=C0317&parentPartType=C0106

Wait, are you re-using the old Ball joints? Why not just replace them instead of drilling them out......Chances are they probably need replacing anyways..

Possible idea? http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html/wkend1109/images/29.jpg Another Idea would be to use one of those pesticide sprayers, but use a length of small ID hosing to help get it through the frame?

Go to your local self-wash and really go AT it with the power washer, even maybe take the tires off there so that you can REALLY get in there, thats the only way I got mine relatively cleaned out, spray towards the back if you can get it spraying into the frame, then you may need to take your rear bumper off to get it ALL cleaned out, then tap around with a hammer... Take some pics so we can see.....I may be doing mine this weekend, so I can take some pics for ya

I say you do it....even if it is only 62" then thats only 2" outside of the body, and if you don't like that you can just cut it down....

Your biggest issue will be the metal sleeves being rusted onto the spindle, and MAYBE the frame side bolts.....it was actually easier than doing the rear lift springs... Some tips I would have found helpful- To help get the stock shock unbolted, use a pipe wrench on the non shocktube portion (upper cover thing) so it doesn't turn when your trying to unbolt the shock... Get a breaker bar, use it. You will need a 7/8 wrench (me thinks thats right) for the rear side bolts of each UCA, (I couldn't fit a breaker bar in there easily, but the big ol wrench did the trick) Get a torch and a cheapo flathead screwdriver to burn out the bushings....takes forever but is rather easy.... If in the event your sleeves are rusted on, and you CAN'T get them off, DON'T try to cut them off, I ended up slicing into my spindle a little bit, and will have to replace it some day....on my drivers side, I finally gave up on the sleeves and just lightly sanded the stock sleeves and reused them. They actually worked better, and with just a little grease, the RC bushings just slipped on, vs the RC sleeves that I couldn't get the bushings on easy by any means. The RC sleeves are longer than stock, it causes issues. (for me atleast) Re tighten your bolts SOON, I just did about 400 miles later, and the side bolt on my passenger side UCA was finger loose and I could see the spindle threads in the space O_O. On the spindle that I used the RC sleeves, I didn't cut them down, and now one bushing has a 1/4" space in between the flange of the bushing and the RC arm.....dunno what Ima do about that one...