OldSlowReliable

hell, for 400 bucks you could just as easily get new doors

i gots that on 1 of mine

Yea, i think you get what i mean....although SOME people go ahead and throw like a d60 or something under......when most people start out they use the waggy

Checked your coolant lvls?

do what EVERYONE else does, and get a d44 from an old waggy

ARGH! You beat me to it <_<

I'll try that, cause i'm always gettin that crap on my hands.....dawn also works decently...

YES YES YES YES YES! We have around a 4" hub opening....whereas alot of 6 lugs out there only have a 3.5" or whatever...all i know is they will NOT fit, so keep that in mind I'm personally attracted to the cragars....whether they are the soft 8's, d window, or streetlock......black and shiny, nice caps, and CHEAP

Why bother? Sue her anyways! For a second...i thought you wrote 'pirate investigator' hehe

Oh wow, I was just thinking about that!!!! Then that hardbody jumped into my head (the one with a stacked frame, body lift, and IFS) Actually, you could probably get close to 20" out of that! BODY 3" SPACERS STRIPPED FRAME 6" Metal Welded Spacers Replacement IFS Frame (about 4" of lift from the extra frame) 4" TM Lift 3" UCA Lift Just throw some better drive shafts on there, and add in the lift you get from bigger tires....BAM Of course.....it would have very little clearance, and effectively be a 13" frame drop....but yeah, you COULD do it!

Haha, i like the very specific instructions!

I think thats what I used......it was the only stuff they had, and it said 'especially useful for boat trailer axles' so I figured it would work great......two weeks of pumping and working it around turned it from having to body slam it open and closed, to a few fingers to pull it....not exactly FREE motion, but it works fine. I still haven't gotten grease to come out the top or bottom, it just comes back out the hole

haha^^ I see some UCA's!!!

Ha, I had already deduced that you didn't die, and in my experience alot of times, people who are in crashes don't wanna 'relive' the experience or something like that.....idk personally as I haven't gotten in a situation like that.. And in my defense, you hadn't posted pictures yet, so I wasn't sure how bad the damage was or how serious the crash was

Be lighter on your gas pedal? Otherwise, would it be possible to just disconnect the switch? Maybe that switch itself is required to make it happen, cause when it does it auto, the light comes on...idk

I just always flip it on for offroad.....It really helps for not getting bogged down at the top of climbs on dunes or deep rutted hill climbs in forests.....Sure, my engine is yelling pretty loud, but otherwise it shifts to run at like 1500rpm which is not too great for the top of a 75ft dune....

whatever 'unleaded' is.... its what I was raised putting into anything (cept for diesel of course) and I have never used foam or injector cleaners or anything......but whatevs, im on a very fixed income, so its all I can do to keep filling up my 20mpg city CAR, usually I just throw a few bucks into the pathy when I feel like driving it....

I don't have headers (atleast....i don't THINK i do...) but I really think my truck has pretty good getup and go....could use the topend power, but takes off pretty fine.. Although, If I have a cracked manifold or something, I will just replace it with headers :s

pics of the carnage? How bad was it, are you sure you can't slap some new fenders on her and call it good?

how much is the yard asking for them?

I think what people are trying to say, is that it is typically more difficult to get leaves to flex that way, (i think they are called scissor shackles?) and with that goes more $$ into the leaves themselves, and with these modifications, it will not be very well mannered at anything above a crawl... whereas if you have a linked setup, There are things you can do to make it road worthy. I know a guy that occasionally drives his SAS'd 2000's blazer on 35's with coilovers in front, the 6 hour drive up to the UP of michigan, he gets crazy flex from that, combined with being able to tuck the 35's so high and such, but I highly doubt he would have such a road-mannered machine and still get the flex out of it if he was running leafs with the special shackle mounting but, if your not really looking for such massive amounts of flex, and just want a solid axle, go for it and do the same basic setup as packie...I personally just wouldn't want to have coils in back and leaf springs up front, but thats just me

Personally, the only way I would SAS a unibody with r/p steering would be if it was free or cheap, I could get all the parts for free or cheap, I already had everything needed to do it (welder, knowledge and such) and it was a dedicated trail rig. Otherwise, in the long run it is much easier to get a frame/body with linked steering Xterra or similar, and SAS it, because first off, they make KITS, which if I understand correctly, make it so the only welding is on the donor axle for mounting purposes.... and there is ALOT more room for error or being a little bit off.....on a unibody, putting a bracket in just the wrong spot could be disastrous, and then theres the entire steering deal as others have noted.... But hey, nothins stoppin ya! If you love your pathy that much, go for it...but it is definitely not something for the mechanically unable.

Yeah, I couldn't remember the 2nd word, I was about to just call it the break angle, but I knew that wasn't right O_O I think this conversation has been had previously (only tire size increases minimum clearance) But when it comes down to it, I run into issues with dragging frame and such ALOT more than I run into issues with the differential dragging, which seems like it would only mattr in cases like rock climbing and such where it would STOP you from going anywhere, I think the only time my diff has dragged was in some really sticky mud that the ruts were too deep for me, and the diff dragged cause I had inertia going in, and was able to spin the tires enough to grab the sides of the ruts and crawl out....but I wouldn't have even gotten slowed down with the same tires and a 3" SL

did you do the ol' gas siphon style on that A/T fluid? Or use a special pump thing....cause it doesn't sound very healthy! lawl

So wait, what exactly is the wiring setup as it stands right now? Does the green wire represent ground or power? or is there some sort of built in "remote" switch (if you know sound system stuff) kind of relay thing which is controlled by the green wire?