OldSlowReliable

If you think a 27mm is big, I used a 6" open end wrench, with a three foot handle on a heidelberg 4 color lithographic press.....that sucker was BIG! Looks like you having fun, personally, if i were to do the whole timing belt junk, i'd spring for an e-fan to make things that much easier in the future, and clean up the area a bit, but thats just me...

Actually, the body has rubber spacers/pads in between the body mounts and the body, the only way they would connect is if one of the bolts touched an edge, because even the captives don't direclty touch both, unless inside the pilot hole they touch side... Probably just to make the frame and body both groundable...

:o I thought he was saying he had to get rid of his DD, and didn't want to ruin the tread on his muds.... OMG DON'T DO IT!

actually I think your right, cause I think i remember reading the door sticker as having 215/70 stock

If your not looking at wranglers (which i believed used coils from tj and up), then you must be looking @ CHEROKEE's (xj) versus GRAND CHEROKEE (zj). the zj has coils all around, whereas the xj has coils front, leafs rear. Unless, as you said, it is genuinely different!

actually, i recently tucked in my coax cable in the rear storage of my pathy, and i think i saw something very similar to that UNDER the carpet, between the padding and the carpet. hmm....

*poo poo* The chromie has 235/75/15 factory, so heres some info- 235/75/15= 28.9x9.3/15 215/70/15= 26.9x8.5/15 You will be reducing width by apx 1", and diameter by apx 2", these would be small, but with your stock rims being 15x6, I don't see any reason why you couldn't run them...I wouldn't, but you could! Just make sure they have the correct load rating!

i digg it, but those bull bars look kinda outta proportion.....still more than i got!

hah! That shop looks IDENTICAL to the old shop I borrow sometimes in my highschool (program got shut down) even to the lines on the floor and the lathes!

then i guess you just got yourself the answer! I'd now take it to a local 4x4 shop, and sit down with the owner to see what it would cost to make it, if its outta your price range, ask them what you could change to make it cheaper

which rim do you have? the chromie or the lego? In other words, do you have 235/75/r15 or 31x1050x15 on there right now?

yeah, your more of a light purple/pink shade

Um.....33's without trimming precious sheetmetal Just that much more entrance/departure angles, gives you another inch of space to wrench on stuff, prematurely replacement or checking of radiator hoses, the glamour, more space for articulation in the rear axle..... Idk, i did the 3".....so don't judge me.

If you want to run 33's, like I do, you will need to get a 3" body lift, or cut fenders. I just finished my body lift, and although I had a horrifying experience, I'm glad I did it, cause I really do feel alot more comfortable wrenching on the pathy now that i've conquered that mountain. Personally, a 2" seems like a waste of work, when you can do more with a 3", and theres only a little bit difference. The big thing, is that with a 2" lift you don't have to mess with some junk, i.e. radiator hoses, filler hoses, Tcase shifter, alot of unbolting of hoses and such etc...but a 3" just gives you so many more options, and I would personaly hate to put a 2" in, and then change my mind in the future, and have to remove the 2", waste $$, and most of all, have to do the xtra work ANYWAYS.

do you think walmart would mount a 33x1250 on an 8" wide? ive always wondered, rec'd width is 8.5-10

HAHA, I remember reading that.....very...interesting

first thing you need to do is either fix the rust yourself, or pay someone money to do it, cause it really does need the help. Make sure you are pushing the transfercase shifter the correct way, I know when I was a younger owner, I was misreading the shifter for it always being in N, and having to push up to make it engage, so make sure your just pulling back

you sir, are lucky! I got the other hose, its molded only a little diff than stock, cut about 1" off the rad side, and it fit perfect, no kinks no flares, looks stock! Had some trouble with the lower....i cut it down enough on the engine side, but it is a BISH to get back onto the engine side nozzle, worked at it for a bit, and its on there a little bit prly 1/4", so ima call it good.... Had brotherinlaw work on the filler tube, finally got those on, only a slight bend in the lower half......but its on there! If anyone else ever wants to replace their upper hose, that hose I posted works GREAT, and was 10.56 after tax!

I did search.....but after all my years of IPB, i have finally realized the search is pretty much useless.....or maybe its just me? I think i got what i need, its 10 bucks @ autozone, http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/p...lly+Springfield It says it is 13" long, and its just a molded hose, not a flex hose, advanced auto parts told me their 'stock' hose was 11" long, so this should give me what i'll need...... The stock hose FITS sure...but only if i really ream on the clamps, and im worried when the stuff gets under pressure, it will force its way out.... If i can't get it the way I want, I may try to just find a straight hose, or just use the stock.....idk The lower, i haven't even gotten to yet, would love to cut it just from the engine side (i already have that side undone), and still dealing with that dang fuel filler hose...

So did my lift, got it all back together minus the radiator and fuel filler.......so heres my issue. I drained the radiator from the lower hose, still haven't completely removed that to cut it down......oops? and i took off the upper hose. I could already see the upper hose was stretched a bit, so I took it to the auto parts store and they didn't have any kind of thing to replace it other than a 15" radiator flex hose....It looked like it would work, but i got it home, and it is one of those ones with the metal wire coiled on the inside, so it flexes, but it is really STIFF, and its very long....(hehe haha.....erm) so i put it as far as it will go on the engine nozzle, and then wedged it onto the radiator, but it would just pull itself off the other side....... Ideas? Should i look for a specific other hose?

just for a future advice kinda deal, i just drained mine by removing the lower hose (i gotta cut it down anyways) so maybe this would be a better option for next time?

really, if you want a winch bumper for cheap, its not gonna be premade. the lowest ive seen a pathfinder winchable is that one that is base price 460, but i'd imagine the shipping would be horrible........... I'd go to a local 4x4 fab shop, and give them your price range, and what your looking for, they will most likely give you atleast one option

Thankya! with everything covered in mud it makes it rather.....interesting..... Yeah, after comparing the work between the two different paths, i'll be replacing the hoses, not dropping it.....anyone want to buy a drop kit? lawl

not so much difficulty, but I don't REALLY wanna cut any kind of support, much rather just have to flush the radiator :\

Not so sure I want to cut anything really... I'm seriously considering just removing the shroud, and editing hoses vs all that nonsense..... They REALLY need to put that on their site...