OldSlowReliable

pipewrench here........it was pretty stuck on there from threadlocker and such....

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.ph...highlight=WINCH

the only thing I would be concerned with after running 7" of suspension, would be the REAR suspension.....I would be concerned at how far the rear axle would be brought forward, and the length of brake lines, and other vital components

I paid 45 for a pair of XJ 3" lift springs from RC......dunno how much lift they will give, but im hopeful

maybe this? http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...20&start=20

NO. Bad Idea. I should probably explain... Unless your willing to do it GREAT, like put a ton of effort into the prep, make a unique and pretty design with decent color choices, and then put a clear coat on to make it look like something more than you with a can of paint.....it will look cheesy and won't turn out how your probably imagining it. Sorry, but its true... Don't think a can of paint will look all that great, if you want it to look decent, you will probably need to rent a compressor and spray gun.... But hey, if it doesn't make a big difference to you, grab some rattle cans and go for it!

that is true, but the JGC lift is a crap shoot, you MAY get 3" but you MAY get 2" or less, it really depends..... But in theory, that setup will get you 2.5"-3" of SL

agreed on the smittybuilt, the xrc8 is a highly used winch, I really haven't heard anything bad about em, and 300 for a 8k winch is a terrific deal......plus there are enough of them out there that there are ppl selling them that are moving to bigger better things, so you can probably get a used one for 160

My pathy was mint when i got it....no rust, detailed every week, oil change every 2500 miles EXACTLY......for its ENTIRE life... But then we owned it for a while and its not SO perty anymore. We paid 4k a few years ago, and I'm pretty sure KBB was only 3....

I got those, but they hold 6x9's...and sometimes I wish I didn't have them......they get in the way frequently

or even just plywood and carpet would look fine in that spot....someone did something similar to that but I think it was in an R50

someone on here has a vid of them using a ground stake thing and demonstrating how it works pulling a pathy up a muddy incline......its somewhere in the members ride area

Seems like they would be too deep, but I only ever worked with 12's, so you MAY fit them, but I highly doubt you would want them there...

We were not contesting the strength of those bolts, we were saying the bolts on the winch structure, the small black ones. Your tests are only valid under perfect conditions, things fail unexpectedly all the time. The steel could have a weak spot or be weakened or oxidized. I have seen, and heard horror stories of chains, ropes, wires, and HITCH BALLS breaking from use that they were rated to take. A guy from my home town lost the entire right side of his facial structure because he was hit with a snapping chain that was rated for 20k pulling force while pulling out a stump. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, just because the metal of each object can hold the force by itself, doesn't mean they will hold TOGETHER, a weld could break, a link could snap, a joint could slip....and so on Hitches are extremely unsafe, and people don't realize it....most hitches are class 3 which is only rated for 5k AT BEST, add in the pin, the frame, the welds, the ball, and somethings gotta give... I have seen hitch balls fly 100 feet from people using them as a recovery point, and im not talking about a snatch strap and goin 20mph.....just one of those cases where it only needed a little nudge, and it flies right off! Im really glad you decided to get that mount Bill, its just not worth the risk, and the last thing we wanna see is you havin fun with a new gadget and get in a bad situation

Seen it online, seen people who own them, not impressed, and they strike me as something that one wrong footing and they slip out from under it and down comes the truck... I have a few buddies with sick rigs and winches, and a couple buds with light rigs and winches, and although it may seem like a lot of money, and something you can substitute easily, there really is NO substitution for a simple electric winch.....they are MADE to do the work, and have the correct safety features to insure they do it safely, and correctly.... Instead of wasting 50 dollars here, 50 dollars there, 100 dollars there.....you can get a decent used winch for under 200 bucks, and a brand new GREAT winch for 300....... Just do it!!!!! It will make a world of difference!

Assuming you mean the stock UCA's, no, they are the exact same as ours, the only difference really inbetween our trucks is the body sits SLIGHTLY higher than the body of ours, and it of course has a truck bed and rear leaf sprung suspension.

it would have to be CHEAP to make it worth while..... cause as said earlier, if someone is gonna buy that for that large of a repair, then they probably don't have a welder.....

things that could go wrong and kill someone The bolts could shear through that diamond plate stuff and send the winch flying That trailer ball isn't meant to have 5000lbs of stress pulled on it.....its meant to pull a 5000lb trailer on wheels, which is significantly less force than that of a stuck truck. That thin thin wire could snap (go to a jeep jamboree, you will see atleast 3 winch cables break on those really expensive rigs and winches) Any one of those 4 bolts that mount the winch to the plate don't look like grade 8, and they could easily sheer themselves or tear through that thin mounting plate That silver ball receiver part is NOT rated to have that kind of force on it. The hitch tube itself for the hitch ball looks homemade, and it sure doesn't look like enough bracing and weld contact is there to stop that from just ripping off Of course these are worst case and all, but if any one of them happens you could kill someone. Don't think about how your willing to take the risk, worry about the people you may be offering a hand to.... Plus, that winch is not rated for anything it would be useful for really, anything that you would need that 3k lb winch for, you could just as easily strap a recovery strap on your tow hook and do it safely and securely. You can't use it for your own recovery or the recovery of others, and same deal with moving stuff around the farm or whatever.... Sure you could use it to say pull a dead vehicle up the driveway or something with that weight rating, but at that point you could just as easily spend 20 bucks for beer and get a few buddies.... The only thing those are good for are for things like flatbed trailers, bolting to the garage floor (pulling vehicles into the garage), ATV's, Dunebuggies, and other little things sorry, but you can always keep it for something like i said above

it looks a bit WIDE for the space we got, but you could always swap seats and it looks like you would also gain a rear 12v cig outlet

on the note of electronic usage- You could try a electric solenoid actuator, I think this would do what you need as long as you can get one for your needs via ebay...and just wire that to a toggle switch and have it running in the line in between the tank and the horn. On another note, you would probably want what is called a momentary switch instead of say a toggle switch so you can bump it and not have to worry about leaving it on or something....heres one from radioshack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...tab=custRatings If your looking for a cheap tank, wallymart sells 30 dollar 7 gallon air tanks that have served my needs wonderfully!

That sounds pretty wide to me.....that would mean that 5.5" of wheel is sticking on the outside of the hub surface....whereas with neutral bs of about 4" splits the wheel about evenly in half from the mounting surface... Considering your running these on an r50, which limits your lift amount, I think 2.5" bs would give you alot of rubbing..... I do know that r50s are kinda weird with tire sizes and backspacing, and that backspacing of X amount with Y set of tires, works great, but with X backspacing and Z tires, it fails miserably. But I may be an idiot. Where is GPG? He did alot of work with bs

https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=277 and if you decide you want to do the radiator drop bracket, I have one I decided not to use =)

I meant more for michigan-style dunes, LOL! But it would be a fun beach truck, and we got some dune/sand trails in michigan that it would be fun for....but nothing else really interesting... Yeah, it looks like he converted the rear to leaf-sprung, and you can just SEE the difference in where the leaf dissapears behind the tire, and where the axle tube is! thats got to be atleast 6" in blocks....and then another body lift on top of that (i think i see the 3" gap in the rear wheel well frame gap)

well, aside from the whole steering thing, you could probably utilize the control arm mounts......and the ends of the control arms, and rig the mounts from our rear axle onto the new front axle, and likewise with the frame side mounts, and just box in stuff and you could probably mount them back enough that they wouldn't be effected by crossmembers and such, and as long as you could use some DOM Tube, and craft some longer control arms to compensate for the mounts being further away......You would probably have to fabricate spring and shock perches, but you could also probably use the axle side perches from one of our rear axles as a basis for the new axle. I'm still assuming this is a trail-only rig, and will probably be trailered to and fro.....cause if not, you would have to figure out sway bars and such

it would be a cool dune truck if he had locks on the wheels, but like said above......useless otherwise Its kinda a dark photo, but it looks like both front and back are leaf-sprung, cause just looking @ the stock control arm mounts, it really doesn't look like theres a big strong CA branching off it.