GrimGreg

Yep, was the issue on my 88. Couldn't even see a bad spot in the wire, but there was no wire left inside the insulation.

If you can't get them off with vice grips, stop! Go get a new set of screws first, then take a dremel and cut the heads off the screws and pull the MAF. Then you can take the rremains of the screw out and put it back together with the new ones. Duct Taping it in because you broke the screws off is not an option!!!

What is not fun is wearing safety glasses and having them blown off because you forget to change the air exhaust direction on the nail gun....

Maybe the lock nuts weren't tightened enough.

Just remember to ro get an alignment afterward.

Very true, I wonder where they were red lining the VG race engines at?

Well, if it is off like that it idles at 1rpm (idles at about 600rpm per tach) . Stock tach, unmolested, running tranny in power mode. I usually hit it on my local freeway on ramp when I put my foot into it...also doing about 55 in 2nd by that time. It's screaming (and sounds mean as hell), but still sounds like it's got more in it when it shifts, as in it would do 9k without flinching if allowed to.

I was working on a dealership about 6 years ago and asked the service manager about this, he came out and scraped a hunk of dirt off the saddle piece on the B pillar and said, nope, just dirty. Just something to check before you get told the same thing. That said, mine are not retracting right again, and I already did a dirt check so I might need to go make an appointment myself.

I cross posted your ad on NOAS since we have a few Floridians in the club.

I usually pull out a tray table and solder/heat shrink everything while watching TV.

Depending, you might be able to get by with just 2 junkyard heads and a new tentioner&belt.(Easier to buy used heads than replace bent valves in your current ones).

I thought the TDs were computerless?

Mine has hit about 7500 before shifting before. So I guess I've either been lucky or had some valve float and not noticed huh My1?

Lowe's had a good deal on a set of air tools on Black Friday, $49 for an impact, ratchet, hammer, blow tip/ inflator, and impact socket set. I think they sell it for $99 regularly. I almost bought a set myself, but the only tool I didn't have in the set was the ratchet, and they are about $35 alone, so with money tight I passed on it.

Yeah, even if you never want to put a factory unit back in it, it is much easier to get a harness adapter for a couple bucks, they have the wires preset/marked for what matches what. Then if you decide to change it later, unclip it and cut it off that radio and attach it to the new one. I just did that with my wife's, I had put a Sony unit in her car with the harness adapter when we bought it, she just upgraded to a new stereo with USB so I pulled out the Sony, clipped the adapter off it and attached it to the new one. Plug and play is so much easier than trying to play with loose wires in a dash.

Found this on wiki answers, though I think the 95 Pathfinder uses the old plug style, the colors are right IIRC: 1995 And Newer Typical Nissan Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color A Right Rear Speaker (+) Gray B Amplifier Turn On Wire C Right Rear Speaker (-) Gray w/ Red Stripe D Left Rear Speaker (+) Orange E Left Rear Speaker (-) Black w/ Pink Stripe F Amp Ground Wire (connect this wire to the radios ground wire) G +12 Volt Ignition Wire Blue H Do Not Use I Right Front Speaker (+) Brown J Left Front Speaker (+) Purple K Ground Wire (if available) metal brackets on radio L Do Not Use M +12 Volt Battery Wire Pink N Power Antenna Wire O Right Front Speaker (-) Brown w/ White Stripe P Left Front Speaker (-) Green w/ Yellow Stripe AS VIEWED FROM MATING END OF CONNECTOR a b g h i j c d e f k l m n o p edit to say I think the left rear colors might be different.

Normal cruising temp in the summer is about 180 (winter about 160). When I've gone on offroad runs and am cruising at about 75-80 up and down the hills of the Appalachians it hits about 240 but never past there. Offroading I have had it get up near 260, but that is in summer heat going about 5mph in low gears up steep hills, when I see it getting that high, I'll usually give it a rest and let it sit idling for a few (idling so it is still circulating). I plan to add a second small e-fan in front of my cooler in hopes to eliminate that. One other thought I had was to get a J-yard tranny pan and weld on some fins for heat sinks, but that was just a wild idea, doubt I'll do that.

Yep, you can see it on the firewall, and they do like to clog. When they clog the condensation builds up in the air box then will back flow into the fan. Poke something into the drain line like a piece of wire hanger. Also open up the inside (remover the fan resistor out of the box) and make sure it isn't full of leaves.

Why not gut a PS unit and mount it backwards on the frame? Just curious.

Had another idea, upgraded front axel shafts using a U-joint type design.

Another possibility is that the new O2 sensor bung (you said new mid-pipe) is to long and the sensor isn't sticking into the exhaust flow properly.

Have the wheels rebalanced, just because they aligned it doesn't mean that they pulled the wheels and checked balalance. They could be off balance causing your shaking.

Besides the Unions, I think the whole "Flex Fuel" thing was GM's undoing.

Don't think it is a complete rebuild kit, but a part upgrade kit, it's called "Transgo", though I could be wrong. I had a friend use the kit on his Hardbaody and it shifted really nice afterward.

Well, since they are both on 31s, the single answer should be fine...