Leaderboard

Make sure you’ve read about & know the differences in the strut top hat - you need that spacer. The OEM one is welded on, most aftermarket are not. You will be very impressed with these new clamshell spring compressors - they work great. The notches on the bottom spring seat and the top spring seat must be aligned as shown. Note that the side of the strut shown in the photo is the inboard (engine-facing) side. When reinstalling the struts, orient the "L" or "R" on the strut insulator (aka "top hat") so that the "L" lines up with the notches for the left strut, and the "R" lines up with the notches for the right strut. [XPLORx4] Finally, I’m not sure with that spring set but you may need to lengthen your rear brake line. Extending the breather never hurts but Nissan did a good job of tucking it right under the cargo area floor & it will still reach fine, even with the Britpart NRC9448 springs. It’s on my ToDo list but really, I’m very unlikely to get that deep - it’s really up there on mine.

Had some fun with the truck this weekend!

LOL. That's a photo I took the first time I had to replace my struts, sometime around 2000-2001. It was the first and the last time I used those spring compressors! Shortly afterwards, I bought a used Strut Tamer.

What’s the extended length on those guys? Any chance of them letting the coils fall out? Also whats the exact part number? I’m upgrading to bilsteins soon but can’t decide if I should go for the 5100s or just directly to the 5165s

Here’s a tip for the strut replacement. Loosen the nut on top of the strut shaft before removing the strut. It’s much harder to break that but loose after the strut is removed. Camber bolts, if used, should be installed on the top strut/knuckle bolt hole. When replacing the rear springs, you do not have to remove the pan hard rod, but it is very helpful to unbolt the sway bar mounts from the axle so that the sway bar doesn’t interfere with flexing the axle during installation. Also, unbolt the rear brake manifold on top of the diff to prevent overstretching the rubber brake line while you manipulate the rear axle. I would also suggest extending the rear differential breather tube to a higher location or possibly up into the cabin through one of the grommets on either side behind the wheel wells. (I routed my breather tube to the fuel filler neck area.)

The problem has been solved! The K02 tyre is visibly larger, a rough measurement across the diameter easily shows it coming up as 31", while the K0 TYRE is just over 30". I tried everything, I didn't just remove the bracket on a whim! My first attempt was cranking the tyre up without any changes to the car or the tyre. Second I tried letting the air out. Third I crushed the tyre with a ratchet straps AND removed the bracket. All I can say is, it is impossible (on my car) to fit a 265/70/16 K02 TYRE In the stock location. Also everything back there on my car is OEM! Thanks for the topic, it pushed me to try. I can now run a spare off the roof, albeit a older version of what I'm running.

I like my Tekton 1/2 from Amazon better than my Dads 20 year old Craftsman. Now their 3/8 only has inch lbs and newton meters, so I'm constantly having to ask Alexa in my garage what the conversion is for my manuals that don't have Nm. Its ratchet teeth are a little coarser than I'd prefer. But for what I paid I can't complain. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've got two camber bolts from Specialty Products Company (81260), no idea what to do with them, hence my friend that has a clue coming to help teach me what to do. I'll be sure to get some anti-seize before Saturday. Will be sure to not use any impact tools. Thanks for the advice!

With the clam shell spring Compressors , its all good and faster !!! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I swapped in a 3.3 into my 93 when I killed the original 3.0. the engine I go was from an Xterra(WD22) originally, was installed into a 96 R50, then into my WD21. I installed my plenum and exhaust manifolds from my 3.0, the manifolds fit fine, the holes were big enough to go over the 10mm studs without drilling. I swapped my 3.0 distributor and I believe I did the oil pan as well. Motor mount brackets bolted into the same places. I did get accessory brackets from Frontier/Xterras for the alternator, power steering and ac compressor. I was already running a Quest/Villager alternator that actually fit better with the D22 brackets. My steering pump was leaking so replaced it but only needed the pulley from the D/WD22 to make it work. Water pump is the 3.3 unit and the pulley is for the D/WD22. I had gone electric on the fan long before, but expect the clutch and fan will fit fine. I kept the lower intake manifold and injectors from the 3.3 and simply used parts of both engine wiring harnesses to connect everything. I wound up extending the oil pressure switch wire to reach the switch on the oil filter adapter, but could have simply pulled the plug in the block and put the switch in the same place as the 3.0. I put the sending unit for my aftermarket oil pressure gauge there in mine. All in all, not that hard a project and has been working fine for almost 20 years. I still don't have an ac compressor, but that is because it hasn't been a a daily driver for a long time and I find other expenses to take my money. Most of the time it isn't hot enough make living without ac in a truck that is mostly used for off pavement recreation.

That looks great. And thank you for actually masking off the lock cylinders and door handles. Nothing looks worse than that to me lol.

My Pathfinder is a unique collection of parts that mostly works for me. That said, here is my input. My 93 when I bought it in 99 had 128k miles on it and I assume the factory installed switchable shocks were the original units. I never noticed a change in mine when switched between sport and touring. I did the tests and was able to hear all 4 click when the switch was operated, just felt the same to me. I did a 3" suspension lift using the kit with 30% stiffer torsion bars and 3" coils from AC about 20 years ago. It came with a set of the Rancho 5000 shocks. I hated them, just didn't work well for me. I eventually changed the rear lift coils out with a pair of front coils made for a late 70's early 80's Ford F150. I trimmed the pigtails off to fit my mounts. They gave me lift I was looking for, but a very harsh ride unless I had 700+ lbs in the back or a trailer hooked up with good tongue weight. Also had a tendency for the right spring to fall out when flexed out. I had found the rear shocks were a little too short for the lift and so got a pair of ProComp ES3000's for the rear. These shocks did ride better than the Ranchos for me. Then I got tired of the issues the Ford springs had, and went back to the first lift coils with a spacer to give me the rear lift I was after. That setup just was not working for me, so got a pair of 4" lift coils for the front of a 90's Grand Cherokee. I trimmed a coil off with the pigtails to fit my stock mounts. They gave me the 5" lift I was after and I found the ride to be a bit firm, but not bad. I tend to carry a couple hundred pounds of "stuff" in my truck so worked for me. Had one shock finally blow it's seals and die. I picked up a pair of Bilsteins that came off a new 17 Titan Pro4x for the great price of free (the parts department at the dealership I was working at was tired of the pile of them sitting there as take-offs from the Titans that had lifts installed and was throwing them out). I had to do some grinding and drilling on the bushing eyes to fit the mounting studs on my truck, but they fit well and work great for me. Up front, I finally broke the right front shock a little while back. Found a pair of ProComps and have been satisfied with them. I started with a 3" suspension lift, and I have maxed the front out. It has been a miserable experience for me over the years. I have gone through a LOT of tierods, idler arms, ball joints, center links, bushings, CV boots/axles and such. I also installed a 3" bodylift about a year after the suspension lift. If I was to do it again, I would leave the suspension near stock, probably just turn it up about 1 1/2" and do the 3" bodylift. The bodylift gave me room for larger tires, the suspension lift didn't. It also has made a lot of things easier to get at and work on especially around the engine.

Sharing a pic for my 2002 as I am about to let it go. It has serve me well over the years. Sunrise at Gilgo Beach, Long Island.