Leaderboard

No problem. There tends to be a lot of variance and opinion when it comes to wire selection, but it really depends on usage/application. A chart like this is a lot closer to my wiring preference for most 12V electrical... ...except when wiring up a stereos/amplifiers, other high-draw lighting/accessories (compressors, winches); I'll almost always increase to the next gauge. You'll never hurt a system with wire that's too thick (keeping it reasonable), but at some point cost exceeds benefits. On the other hand, wire that's too thin will affect performance and is also a hazard. If unsure, jump a gauge. I'll usually choose a wire gauge based on 50%-100% of my expected nominal draw with the circuit loaded...this gives me some circuit overhead for any overdraw conditions, plus some wiggle room if I want/need to put another accessory on the circuit.

Update: I was checking their website today and I was pleased to notice that they have added an option for 00-04 Post Facelift R50. Nice to know they are now available for the newer models in case anyone was interested. This is probably my favorite bumper I have seen for the Pathy due to its pricing and overall look. When the money is there I will probably grab this one.

That's my video! Looks good Jax. And yeah, OSB, do it! It's so much nicer to work under the hood when you can see what you're doing.

For your setup, 18awg is perfectly fine. Much of your factory wiring is around that, including radio, interior lighting, etc. You could jump to 16awg if you want a thicker wire potentially more suitable for exterior runs, but not necessary if the wire is properly protected (exterior wire should be sheathed/protected to some degree anyway to resist elements, heat, chafing, etc.). The leads coming from those LED pods are probably even smaller than 18awg.

Wow, this post is just the motivation I needed. Coincidentally, I am a 16-year-old high school student with a stock R50 Pathy that has been in my family since I was conceived (my parents wanted a larger car to accommodate a child, and my mother’s 1990 Isuzu Stylus wasn’t exactly a perfect fit LOL). The Pathy means the world to me, and I plan on holding on to her as long as I live. This past summer, the ol’ girl was passed down the line to me. I have been very interested in cars, but never had the chance to work with a car hands-on. Since then, I’ve made a few modifications to my truck, all of which I was able to learn to do myself by joining this community. I have a rust-removal/restoration project on my agenda, and although there were no existing topics on exactly what needed to be done, I just replied to an old restoration post with my question on the details of lightly-rusted underbody restoration. Within two days, I had about 12 or so member responses, which were all very helpful. Thank you for sharing your story. I hope one day, when I am a bit older, I too can share the story of my Pathfinder!

I haven't run enough wire to have the gauge quite figured out by eye either, but I can compare the diameter of the conductor to the grooves in my wire stripper and get a ballpark estimate that way. I should probably print that chart and put it up somewhere. Different climate on this side for sure! And thanks.

My 2002 QX4 had auto up/down on the passenger front window as well. May be able to jack some components from a junkyard QX4.

Just wanted to reflect over what I’ve learned from this forum. When I joined I was 16 in high school with a stock pathfinder and was clueless. Now I’m 25 with the same pathfinder and it’s about as built up as it can be until I go custom fab with it. Through reaserch and communication I have been able to build my pathfinder into what it is today. I feel that this forum is so much better than any Facebook group or things of that nature. I have joined some of these groups recently and I have found that all it is is people who have no idea what they are talking about making posts and wanting there car magically diagnosed and everyone asking questions about what lift I have or what size tires I have or how many miles are on my car etc etc etc when I have answered the question time after time and made posts about my build info. It made me realize how lazy people are and the lack of reaserch that is performed in order to make your dream pathfinder a reality. I just wanted to take a moment to thank people for telling newbies to go do homework before asking questions, that all the answers are literally right on this very forum and that it’s easy to find and get answers without bothering everyone with simple questions. I now have a coil lift with a sub frame drop, full belly skid plates, supersliders, locking hubs, 33s, and an endless list of other modifications, it took many years of hard work and experimentation but without this forum I would be where I am today. Here’s to those who have walked the same line as me and built their dream with the help of this forum. Cheers.

Watched your YT video today. Always impressed when somebody takes the time to film something like that. Nice job. As a NWer though, that gravelly ground definitely marks you as East of the Cascades. My street grows here on the West side & I think@TowndawgR50 place may make mine look dry.

My Stereo may or may not have been installed using wire nuts.......

Would this work for us? Can I just put the t-fitting closer to the trans cooler and use the rubber hoses?

I'm still loving this. Stumbled across this video that is almost exactly what I did. I bought my set a little more complete, whereas he built his a little more.

Welcome aboard! I'd presume the Geo Tracker hubs to not fit...spline count is one thing, but you need shaft diameter, clip-depth, hub bolt pattern, and other alignment of the stars to catch a break there. It's a long shot. However, any hubs for your Xterra will fit the Pathfinder just fine.

I cannot answer specifically about those hubs, but it looks like you're new here (welcome!), so to generally address the manual hub topic in case you weren't aware: Manual hubs are completely OK to swap onto any R50 Pathfinder or QX4, even those with the electronic AUTO-mode transfer case. Just make sure if you're in any mode other than 2wd those hubs are locked up! Personally I had Warn hubs on my rig; those and Mile Marker seem to be the most popular. I haven't heard of anybody using Geo Tracker hubs. If you've got an opportunity to get them really cheap I suppose you could get them cheap, but if you were going to spend any notable amount of money on em I'd just go aftermarket personally, just because you know they'll fit. Oh, and boy will they every save wear on those CV axles!!!

Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.[@hawairish] Coming from a home improvement/remodeling background, I’ve definitely been guilty of that....(he red facedly reflects on the Jeep Grand Cherokee reverse camera install he did for his Mom)

Based on the license plate trim it is a facelifted R50

Not to thread jack but wanted to chime in on my rig too since your post actually inspired me to do the same set up. Obviously as you stated it’s not difficult to do and relatively self explanatory. I still need to clean up the line route and add some heat sink to tighten up the wire ends. However, with the install done for the night I thought I’d just show some night pics and give a brief review on those led light strips I went with the 24 inch, as you did, perfect fit imo Again I’ll need to clean up the route and add some tie downs and heat sink tomorrow morning when there’s light out. As for the strip. Great quality and good bang for the buck. They’re definitely silicone coated as stated and connections between the wire and the strip are of good quality as well. I’ll have the truck up in utah soon and I’ll be comfortable with these lasting. Thanks for the post and link for the led strip, definitely the visual pictures and write up you posted inspired me to do the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the 3 crew

Year: 1996 SE Lift : Stock Height Wheels : Pro Comp Xtreme Rock Crawler Series 52 Tires : 31" X 10.5" X 15LT Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's Notes: Trimming Needed to run these at stock height, see pictures. Photo:

Excellent write up!! I doubt you mind, but I saved a copy for myself. Thanks!! B

When I did the swap, I had a machine shop bore out the main crank pulley from a VG30 engine. I just grabbed one from the local junk yard. I took them both the crank pulley from the VG33 and the one from the VG30 and told them I wanted the VG30 pulley to match the hole in the one from the VG33. After that all of my accessories bolted right on, no changes needed. I've had no problems since. Here's a link to my write-up, hope it helps! vg33swap.pdf