RainGoat

What did you decide for the final lift? BTW, post that outside shot from IG, it shows the truck really well.

Looks great! Nice work.

Definitely check the volume. I got some on Amazon & received the tiniest bottles known to man.

Totally get it, that’s why I went with an Interstate for my wife’s MDX this time. I felt my perceived benefit just wasn’t worth the money this time. (For perspective my 1st Red Top was $100 & my YellowTops were ~$210, so prices have notably risen. Just for clarification, the X2 Power battery from batteries plus is a rebranded Northstar with a better warranty. Also, you can get 10% off by ordering online or just speaking with the manager & asking “Do I really need to order it online?” 2 managers I spoke with preferred the call. Also, almost 6mo of the year they have some sort of coupon knocking $30 or more off, in addition to the 10% off. Plus LOTS if locations to service the warranty in the U.S.

That table looks okay on a desktop, not so much on TapaTalk

I did a deep dive on this subject this spring. For AGM, Odyssey & Northstar/X2 Power from Batteries Plus (rebranded Northstar) seem to be the top of the heap. The X2 Power has a 5 year warranty which is tough to beat. For a wet battery it's hard to top Interstate at Costco. 42mo warranty & most batteries Best dual battery setup I've seen in a Pathfinder goes to [mention=1343]XPLORx4[/mention] https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/437 Another http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/167538-Dual-battery-on-R50-Pathy-with-VQ35 I would advise against Optima. I was an Optima fan & have owned 3 (1 red top & 2 yellow tops). My red top was purchased 3/27/04 & I think it might still be going today (I gave it to my brother about 3 years ago). My 2nd Optima Yellow Top was purchased to replace the Red Top (it still worked I just wanted a deep cycle battery since I was running alot of accessory power). It lasted 8yrs (11/20/09-11/2017). My third was purchased after Johnson Controls bought the company & moved production to Mexico. I bought it for my wife's MDX because I felt the OEM battery didn't do a good job with all the electonics drain I would get while simply cleaning the car. It did improve that but it only lasted 3yr 10mo (1/2015 - 11/2018). I just replaced it with an Interstate. Battery Yellow Top Odyssey Northstar X2 Power Group 34/78 / 75-25 25 / 34 / 34/78 27 27 34/78 PHCA 1400 / - / 1500 1750 1500 CCA 750 / 620 850 / 792 / 850 930 930 880@0*F/585@-20*F CA 870 / 775 990 / - / 1250 1080 1050@32*F Ah 55(120AH)/- 65 / - / 68 92 90 68/64@20*, 61@10* Reserve 120” / 100” 130”/ - / 135” 195” 133" Weight (#) / 38.81 50 / 46.6 / 49.5 68 69.75 48/50#(26.2kg) Length (") 10 1/16 / 9 1/16 9.46 / 10 1/4 / 10.86 12.44 12.46 10.87/10.9"(276mm) Width (") 6 13/16 / 7 1/16 6.84 / 6 13/16 / 7.09 6.77 6.77 6.99"/7.01"(178mm) Height (") 7 7/8 / 7 5/16 8.69 / 7 7/8 / 7.88 8.86 8.75 7.76"(197mm) Warranty (yr) 3 / 3 4 / 3 / 3 4 5 5 (4 if Northstar) Cost 282 / 272 290 / - / $262+t=289.18 350 330 300

Saturday I stopped by the garage of @TowndawgR50 where he was working on some of the projects he and @hawairish are planning to offer. Most of you probably don't know this, but @TowndawgR50 is an artist as well. It certainly shows in his work. That was some pretty stuff right there!

Same, but not rears. You can also use the key to open/close fronts & sunroof but not rears.

Ooh, I didn’t know that! That’s a great idea!

No, someone had to remind me. Plus, if you live in AZ, Southern Cal, etc. that condition never happens. In their case, all LED doesn’t really present this concern. I’ve been convinced the best set up for me is HID low & LED high - but that doesn’t really work for a 9004 (I’m putting in JDM Terrano lights where it will). If you actually lived IN the Mtns, say of CO, you might not want LED at all. That & Midwest freezing rain are the only places I’ve ever had to stop to decrust my lights (when they were 9004 PIAA halogens). Also, I used to run a front light set up with over 750w of Halogen power (primarily for desert driving) - that front end was toasty (my brother once said that as he watched me climb the foothills outside CO Springs, it looked like a Lighthouse was coming!) [emoji16]

Watched your YT video today. Always impressed when somebody takes the time to film something like that. Nice job. As a NWer though, that gravelly ground definitely marks you as East of the Cascades. My street grows here on the West side & I think@TowndawgR50 place may make mine look dry.

Hmm... wire nuts + electrical tape=better or worse? [emoji51] I do love my Klein wiring tool though - love that thing!

Just don't use electrical wire nuts; that's ghetto.[@hawairish] Coming from a home improvement/remodeling background, I’ve definitely been guilty of that....(he red facedly reflects on the Jeep Grand Cherokee reverse camera install he did for his Mom)

For what it’s worth, I’ve run 3 different LED set ups in my dome & cargo light without any dim lighting of the LEDs (I have this effect in the driver door light of my wife’s MDX - though not the other 3 doors [emoji1744][emoji3603]) It sounds like your goal is really puddle lights. Rock lights are usually undercarriage so you can see in front of your wheel in the dark, & sometimes behind & inside under the truck with the right placement. Upper fender mounting just causes shadow where the rubber hits the ground, which is counter productive. Once my major stuff is done, I’d like to install some. I’ve needed to spot rocks & obstacles in the dark countless times. Once I do that I might even put an undercarriage camera as my new radio has 2 camera inputs & I’ll often have to spot myself.

Just to show how annoying Nissan can be. I too have an ‘02 LE (2/23/02 Manufacture date), however, unlike[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention] grill, mine is more than one piece. Ugh!

We only have one option here & it’s mounting system isn’t that great. I own them but I’m waiting on hawairish as he is working on a better mount system due to his dissatisfaction with his own. Oh yeah & they’re expensive!

Given that you just did it, you don’t happen to know off hand where that is in the FSM do you?

Excellent, though it raises another question. It says vehicles with ABS will need an ABS bracket (ARB#SMP638). Anybody know anything about that? This was s the first I’ve heard of it but I thought I’d read several OME front setups done (though admittedly usually springs & not necessarily the OME struts too).

2928 is definitely the Front Heavy Duty Coils. I tried to pull the ARB catalog link but ARB appears to have redone their web access & blocked the old “paper like” version.

Oh, you should definitely harvest that! They paint up real pretty.

When I was a kid, my Mom used to run a CB on our drives between KC & Dallas or Denver. It was a ton of fun, especially all the lingo. My Mom was a former racer & has a heavy foot so it was a lot of fun to see the truckers take care of “Mother Goose”(she drove a white Thunderbird). When I put a CB in my truck in 2003, I learned the cell phone had largely killed the CB. It was occasionally usefull in highway slowdowns/roadwork, but rarely & now Waze alone knocks it out of the park due to real time crowd sourcing regarding slowdowns, accidents, roadside vehicles & police.

Those are the heavy duty front coils & should be fine. I have a pair waiting to go on my truck but many have used them without problem & ARB actually lists them for the R50.

Essentially yes & yes. If they are not DOT street legal approved you can always get a ticket if a police officer investigates. That said, they rarely do. However, for on road use, it is in your and others best interest not to blind oncoming traffic. A head on because a driver couldn’t see would be bad for everybody & a post accident analysis would likely label you as at least partially, if not entirely, liable-particularly if the other driver is alive to testify that your lights blinded him. (BTW, tinted tailights pose similar, if less lethal, risks). Best way to compare is to put your halogens in one lens & the LED in the other then park on level ground against a large blank wall at night. This is the method I used to arrange my auxiliary light setup. Some have found significant difference in light projection by rotating the LED 90* so that the 2 LEDs (if it’s that style) are in horizontal vs vertical orientation. Also, be aware that some LEDs do not warm the light housing enough to melt off snow & ice in cold climes.

Based on the license plate trim it is a facelifted R50

Your basically looking at ARB OME (various spring rates) or 4x4AC springs with the option of Land Rover springs in the rear. SFC creations for spacers to level & AirLift 1000s for rear end support. Search the threads, these have been addressed ad nauseum recently.