RainGoat

Yeah, I saw it on your recent trip posts@hawairish. I’m super jealous of@Jax99 with both you & the Sonoran. Thank heavens I’ve got a@TownDawgR50 Lucky Me!

Radio issues a little complicated if you have the Bose. Getting to the radio is easy. If you have a double DIN there are awesome options available for reasonable prices. BTW, fix your Power Valves POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/?do=embed

Seriously, check out Desert Rat https://www.desertrat.com/ same price, no tax, no shipping, no brand masking!

Sourcing gear in MO will be tough. ARB OME price is pretty fixed no matter where you get it. 4WheelParts is one source out West. I think a good option for you is Desert Rat out of Phoenix, AZ. They have been around a long time and are reputable. Desert Rat will ship them to you free with no tax. I’m about to do OME up front & LR in the rear.

As an FYI, you might enjoy reading through stioc & Duke90 build threads on Expedition Portal. If you google mild R50 build you should find stioc’s thread & can find Duke90s from there.

Those AC are VERY stiff by report. The LR are definitely a more compliant ride.

Yep, you can’t put in AWD either. ONLY 2WD with the hubs unlocked. Much more of an issue with the tx14 if anybody else were to get in your car while the hubs are unlocked.

What’s your drivetrain? If it’s the LE multimode tx14 transmission there’s more you need to know before using manual hubs. If not, no worries.

I expect they’re just used to pickups. Love the Ozarks. That unique Karst topography can’t be found anywhere else except Florida & China (I almost married a geologist once). From Johnson’s Shut-Ins in the SE to the Buffalo River just over the SW border in AK, that’s a pretty place. You’ll likely miss the land once you’re in KC.

I’ll let more competent mechanics handle that part but it sounds like they don’t WANT to do the work. You may need to do the lift yourself & then fight with shops to align it. I expect you can find somebody to put your strut assemblies together & then you can mount them. Spend some time trolling NPORA, you shouldn’t have trouble doing a 2” lift. I’m a former KCitian, are you in StLouis or in between? I know it can tough to find someone to do offroad modification work on your truck in that area of the country. My Mom has to essentially get it done in either CO Springs at my sisters, or out here in the NW.

Super sorry to hear that, I have a very good idea about how crushing that can feel. What year & what unique things do you have? Maybe some pics....

NICE!

I saw them sitting on his bench last night. Frankly, even at ~8,000mi, I can’t think of a much tougher test environment than the Sonoran-super hot temps & ceramic hard rocks & dust. My judgement is that it speaks well of their integrity so far.@TowndawgR50 will give them the wet test. Next we need a Canadian or NorEaster to give them the salt test....

Alot of fun.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] did all the real work, I catered & learned while [mention=32880]ferrariowner123[/mention] advised & supplied tools. Boy, that picture sure makes it look nicer outside than the dreary, wet, PNW day that it was. Thanks for hosting & all your help[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]. Ha, ha, doesn’t my truck look tiny next to TowndawgR50’s. His lady said it looked like his truck’s baby!

Looks great!

I was often using a small screwdriver to pop the lenses on vehicles & then I would just go ahead & use that screwdriver to pop out the bulb. More than once I accidentally shorted it & blew a fuse because my approach was lazy & not well thought out-you’ll note I said more than once-some people have trouble learning from their mistakes. I expect somehow you shorted it. The other problem I encountered was cheap build quality but you said that you’ve already moved beyond that.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/ba9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-car/3/4359/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=BA9s-x-x-xVAC-CAR&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7rhxbCk3gIVjNlkCh1suweMEAQYBCABEgIIDfD_BwE

Here is the summary I have to date. (BTW, I have the 9448s as I'm headed towards a 3-4" SFD - not put on yet. I'm pairing them with an ARB OME Heavy Duty Front setup-also not put on yet. I'll post when it's done. I re researched purchase options & LR Direct was still the best. I paid $85 on Fri 10/12 & got them in Eastside Seattle Mon 10/15.) Land Rover Defender 90 Spring Summary http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html 5” Inner Diameter NRC9446 +2.5-3” (15Spring Ht) 0.5-1" rake c 2 front spacers 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Driver (0.5" longer than passenger) NRC9447 +2-2.5" (Micah got 4") 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Passenger NRC9448 +4(Perfect c 4"SFD), cut one coil=3" 225# Spring Rate Blue”/Red LR 90 Defender-RearRH 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $80 Delivered from UK $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from NRC9449 +2-2.5" (same Height as NRC9447) 225# Spring Rate (heavier Load than NRC9447) 1badqx4 9446: neilca(35"F/36"R c 31"tireMid Fender Ht) 9447: 19pathfinder99, MichaelAndrews, micahfelker(37-37.5" c 31"tire, MD OME Springs, F=HD OME), thehillboys (Bilstein 1525 shocks) LR - 34 1/4" to 38 1/2" settled to 37.5" net 3 1/4" RR-33 3/4" to 38" settled to 37.5" net 3 3/4" Front 35” c Moog OEM Springs, KYB Struts & 1 1/2" spacer LF - 32 1/2" to 35 net 2 1/2" (slightly uneven shop floor) LR- 32" to 35 net 3" Rake 2.5” 9448: hawairish, TowndawgR50, Bax03SE(37"F/38"R c 33"tire Mid Fender Ht-1 coil cut), drewp29 9449: 03Troutfinder (36.5" from 34", same ht as OEM Spring+2”spacer) Order from LRdirect Brands-few reviews on LR forums say Brit Part (c8) springs held up better than OEM Land Rover against sagging Please let me know if there are any corrections that need to be made & take mid fender measurements at wheel center & fender as well as supply your wheel & tire size. Thanks!

Victor, I’m sorry to hear what a heavy couple months you’ve experienced. My parents are 74 & 78 so I’ve probably got that coming in the next decade. I can only imagine how all the administrative stuff just makes it all the worse. It’s unfortunate to have to deal with truck problems on top of that (& winter is coming). I’m assuming it’s not your daily driver, in which case, might be a good time to just take a little break (unless of course it is or snow hits your area soon). Sending thoughts of encouragement your way!

Unfortunately that was my experience. After significant problems with my Mom’s JGC, I pulled them from all 4 cars. Diode Dynamics, DDM Tuning, JDM AStar, iJDM Toy have all worked well for me over several years use now. Sylvannia & Phillips are of course good & XtremeLEDs has a good rep too.

It won’t protect your sides very well so it’s mainly for parking lot bumps & brush on the centerline between ruts. It would also give a mounting point for auxiliary lights but I don’t think that’s as important in these days of ditch lights & LED bars. I’m not as sure on the Quey but I love what[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention] has done with his grill LED. That & ditch lights would completely meet the forward & lateral light I was needing back in my desert days. There are roof mounted light bars too (& for cheap) but they reportedly whistle alot & the reflected light is pretty bad so they’re best for low speed work or looking for a campsite.

Initiated Spotter training for my 7yo

Keep us posted. It will be a useful trick

My Thursday Night!

Those load bars work great. I loved that I could keep them behind the sunroof for quiet & then slide them to the front to carry lumber, kayaks, etc. I mounted a Yakima basketcase directly to the rails, just in front of the rear load bar (its profile sits below the load bars). It worked great for me & pretty inexpensive.