RainGoat

The license plate relocater is interesting too.@TowndawgR50 &@ferrariowner123 spent an afternoon trying to get one to fit on a face lifted R50 without success - I guess we can see why!

That’s VERY interesting. I have never seen one of those & didn’t know they existed. Here’s a quick shot of the older one for comparison for those on the thread. Weigh it if you get a chance. It would be interesting to compare. I’ll bet it’s lighter as it’s minus one vertical bar & that flat plating.

Just make sure to update this info with the recently discovered Land Rover Defender options. Search NPORA for “LR Springs”

It’s not “rival”, it’s “complement”. Together we’re the R50 Test Lab: Wet & Dry Divisions, [emoji943] PNW [emoji3587] & [emoji3508] Desert [emoji266]

We only paid $18 for an entire assembly recently both here in Seattle & in Portland. Our PNW group can keep an eye out for you though I would think AZ & Southern CA are ideal places to find it.

A truck from Prescott is going to have been VERY heavily used, in rough country!

Check out the YouTube filter comparisons where they cut them open. I was pretty surprised how bad the basic Fram are, especially when the much better ones are only like a dollar more. It was pretty eye opening.

The ‘02 LE has 2 cup holders of different diameters alongside the e-brake. The rearward one is large & comes with an adapter to fit standard size mugs & cups.

Yep, that’s the route hawairish & TowndawgR50 are going. hawairish has the older RRO sliders & I have a new set with the kick outs, however, they don’t mount well with regard to the pinch welds. The two them think it would be better to use the stock mount points as they’re more hardy. I’m awaiting that fix. My current running boards ones are the low profile black step as opposed to the tubes so they don’t get in the way much or catch debris. Personally, I think sliders should come right after tires as you can almost irrevocably damage your truck by landing on the rocker.

I’ve got the RockyRoad Outfitter sliders & I’m waiting for TowndawgR50 & hawairish to make their adapters to the stock mounting position. I find having something to step on & put stuff on besides the rear wheel way too convenient to pull off - especially with kids.

Not related but if you haven’t done your power valves, you should. It’s a couple $ repair that could save you your engine. POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

Generally, they all go bad. It’s the one recurrent problem I’ve had. Changed out 4 by 100K, though one is still OEM & another was a replacement that went bad. Luckily, they only take about 15” to replace. Drop them from the top & zip tie to your old line, cutting off the old heads. You’ll get plenty of practice.

@StPickens Love that the OEM deflector fits-why no fairing on the Rola? If it’s staying that way, make sure to plug those 4 fairing screw holes. The Rola is infamous for rusting on the inside (I actually shot spray paint down the inside of all my tubes).

For 106K & 16 years I ran Mobil 1 & changed it every 6-8,000 miles. When my power valve screws killed my engine the inside was pristine, still with crosshatching on the inside of the cylinders. No sludge & essentially no “varnish”. The mechanics thought it was the nicest looking engine of that age/mileage they had ever seen. I now shoot for every 8K, meaning I’ll usually get it between 8-9K.

Oops. That was a quick cut & paste of my notes. 12 screws. Hopefully they’re all there & you just reuse them. Mine, unfortunately, ultimately had to come from my JDM engine replacement : ( Use the linked thread for good info.

I’m not sure that’s true. I believe the SE racks only anchor with 4 points with 2 bolts per point (I haven’t dissected one so I’m basing that on 4 base points). The roof rails on the LE have 6 anchor points of 2 bolts each. Most attaching a Rola V-Tech are then bolting to the rails with 4-12 points.

[mention=39745]StPickens[/mention],[mention=41155]Astrorami[/mention] & myself have all taken slightly different approaches to this problem with the Rola V-Tech rack. I wanted elevation to allow cam strap hooks on the lower 1” diameter Rola bar &[mention=39745]StPickens[/mention] preserved his sunroof deflector. Without elevation, @02_Pathy had some sunroof function complications.

$3-6K for a ‘00-04 Pathy in Seattle with most $3-4K. Maintenance & condition are everything. It sounds like both of those are excellent in this case. For San Fran, it’s probably a little high but I’m sure he could get $4K for it & it’s not unthinkable he could get $5K though the miles seem a little high for that. Good ones here could be $5Kish too. BTW, make sure you do the Power Valve Fix if he hasn’t already. If it was a CA sold car originally, it would have qualified for the CA class action suit so there is a fair chance it was done - but check.

Not disagreeing re ways to mitigate the older crossbars weaknesses, but the newer ones are magnitudes stronger. I’ve carried two 16’ sea kayaks on a 5 day, almost entirely off-road, adventure in rough Arizona. More impressively, I emergency stopped from about 35-40 mph with four 3/4” sub floor 4x8’ plywood panels plus about 8-10 treated 8-10’ 2x4”s. They flexed enough to contact & crack my sunroof deflector but no damage to the bars, rack or mounts. (Coincidentally, that happened on Woodinville-Duvall Rd-probably a 1/4 mile from Micah’s folks). If your going full roof, most of us are using conduit clamps & bolting the Rola V-Tech right into the rails.

+1 on both of above. Frankly, you’d be amazed at what stock will do. The rear OEM springs needed support when new (I used air lifts). LR springs in the rear are extremely cost effective-probably best combined with ARB OME front springs & spacers to level.

Those non-elevated “bars” are just roof protectors. Not a bad idea & easily transferrable. I didn’t need them as I put a Yakima Basket case spanning my rails between my load bars. Also, as an FYI, Yakima bars adapters work easily for mounting a Hi-Lift on your bars (just be careful putting it up there-that nose will crack your windows in a split second)

By Notorious Valve Cover, I assume you mean the Power Valves-here are some notes: POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Power Valve (Butterfly Valve) Screws on Intake Plenum They are power/swirl valves...the swirl valve actuator is what opens and closes them 6 butterfly valves in the upper manifold held in with 2 screws each tiny phillips screws, size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length Remove each screw & Loctite red threadlocker=permanent 2-3hrs, just a lot of bits and pieces to take off/put back on page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts. Intake Manifold torque-all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs. Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws Altima Part#14511-8J00B they come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

Just as an FYI, while they’re lower profile & better looking in my opinion as well, they are notably less stout & some have failed.

I love what sleepers those cars are. Most people think it’s a Mustang or something, not a Supercar. Also, having ridden in the backseat while my brother test drove one, while a little plasticy, you totally can put people back there for around town-4 seater supercar, awesome. Finally, while likely more finicky than your average Nissan, still probably more reliable than probably every other supercar out there. Also a car I like in burnt orange & carbon fiber and I never thought I’d like burnt orange!

The salt on the North Coast there really eats trucks up. In the NW I see a handful every day. As for the rear window deflector-there are 2 variations. That one looks like mine (‘02 LE) where the rear glass hatch is also the deflector mounting point. Another earlier version (possibly as late as ‘01) uses a deflector mount that is separate from the glass hinge. I think the glass hinge location is a constant & the deflector mounting point varies (slightly wider mounting point on the separate unit). One thing to consider is if you plan a full length rack. I’m putting the Rola V-Tech on mine & the deflector is then both functionally pretty useless plus it gets in the way reaching the rear of the rack, needing the rack farther forward to accommodate the deflector when the hatch is up & getting in the way of rack mounted, rear facing lights.