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Everything posted by RainGoat
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Looks great! White really is a nice color on these trucks!
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Welcome!! Literally just an FYI (it’s my OCD, the meds just aren’t working) fair·ing /ˈferiNG/ noun - an external metal or plastic structure added to increase streamlining and reduce drag, especially on a high-performance car, motorcycle, boat, or aircraft.
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Mine has never done it either
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Please welcome mjotrainbrain as an NPORA Forum Moderator
RainGoat replied to RedPath88's topic in NPORA Announcements
An excellent choice & well deserved!! AND an excellent device to trap him here on our forum (devious chuckle!) -
Brake LED Light Array (Top Center of Hatch Door)
RainGoat replied to jasenpeters's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
That’s a phenomenal explanation from Diode Dynamics! That really is incredible customer service. I’m amazed someone took the time & care to write all that out. I feel good about having purchased their LEDs. -
With LX570s, GX470s & 460s there are Lexus out there
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Honestly, better than a 2018 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Premium as far as conveniences, I’m constantly amazed our “Premium” T4R is missing things my 16 year older Pathfinder has (auto lights, seat memory, auto climate, gas tank lock, roof rails that extend forward past the rear passenger compartment, 6 way power seats, All Wheel Drive). You can get some of that on the Limited so it’s not entirely a fair comparison & the locker & ATRAC are fantastic, but still - it’s the little stuff. @mjotrainbrain, are you telling me the ‘02 QX4 had heated rear seats? Also, adaptive cruise? I mean, I knew it had the remote rear hatch glass pop (& an analog clock) but, wow, those others are big.
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My seats take many minutes to warm & have since new. On a sub 32* day, I don’t feel them until I’m over halfway to work (& about 3-5”). It also annoys me how it appears to cycle: warm, luke warm, a little cool, warm again. I’ve always assumed it has some system where it heats up to a certain temp, turns off & then turns on again either at a certain temp or after some time interval. Literally every other car I’ve rented, driven or owned has been better. My wife’s ‘01 Jetta could cook a meal in about a minute. I also liked it’s 5 set points so you could get it just right (though I’d never advocate buying a VW). Our T4R has multi adjust & can warm you through my Mom’s sheepskin covers over leather & even with her little 1” booster she uses. The MDX is ‘09 & similar but faster & warmer than the Path. The G has multi adjust & is much warmer & consistent. All that said, I’ll take it over no seat warmers - I love seat warmers as the truck is almost always quite cold when I get into it.
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It’s worth noting, there are a million ways to build your truck & your build should suit you. This forum is great for avoiding mistakes but there’s half a dozen trucks that are my favorites for different reasons. Usage is HUGE in determining what you do. Budget is also HUGE. I lived in an apartment & had virtually no disposable income for the first handful of years I had my truck. My only mods were ones I found I needed (WAAG bars protected truck, auxiliary lights to see in the desert at night, rear back up lights, AirLifts to correct for sagging under load, a tiny Yakima basketcase that gave me functionality but still let me use my load bars, better headlights & decent AT tires). When I did have cash, I spent it exploring & getting the outdoor gear I needed. One of the main reasons I bought the Pathfinder in ‘02 was that it was a great “touring” vehicle. I did alot of long distance travel & what would be called Overlanding now. I camped primitively & just wanted a reliable, capable, comfortable, off-road truck.
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Right, the tall ones are nearly worthless-mostly aesthetic, though the push bars could theoretically be helpful, you could mount lights & I guess it might protect your upper hood corners from light scratching (while the lower bumper was trashed). WAAG was the manufacturer. The front was really not a very sturdy mount since it was not a single piece but instead went underneath with a second support running in from the front. I always thought the bolts at the connection were what would give in an impact-turned out it was the tube. It definitely negatively effected approach angle but I was an Overlander (though that category didn’t exist then) not a Crawler. I also couldn’t afford damage that I would need to pay to repair so I was always very careful & thoughtful about my lines (I was often remote & solo so getting stuck wasn’t an option). I can’t remember the front ever being a problem & I’ve done pretty much all the CO passes except Black Bear with a suspension that was stock except for rear airlifts (which I’d inflate to bring my tail up if needed). Departure angle was no worse in the rear since I have an OEM hitch which goes lower & longer. The rear bolts right into the frame & is nice & sturdy - it’s saved my rear from countless taps, campsite brush & the time a trailer came unhitched while underway & that bar was the point of contact to slow it down. I actually intend to keep it as it makes it easier to stand on the rear bumper & I’ve commonly found myself hanging stuff on the front & rear while in camp.
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Holy Sh1t!! I was just thinking the same thing & I’ve had that truck 16 years!!
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Okay, I'll be the contrary opinion on this point. Full bumper replacements are awesome but cost alot of money, take time to do, were VERY hard to find until the last 6 months and may not visually appeal to you. For all of these reasons I ran a PreRunner bar on my truck for 16 years. On the financial aspect alone bumper replacement was a no go for me for years after I bought my truck. It allowed me to protect my bumper (not a damage multiplier), mount auxilliary lights, absorbed damage in a front end collision & I like the aesthetics. The PreRunner was low and pushed brush & small saplings down saving my OEM bumper when I was simply off road in brush, etc. Upper brush guards are worthless as brush hits your lower bumper first & if you are going a slow, reasonable speed, the lower bumper should push the brush down & out of the way. Also, the PreRunner had vertical rubber bump bars that saved me from countless bumper taps over the years. My bumper looked as good as the day I bought it until my front end collision. Additionally, when I was in a front end collision, the WAAG bar absorbed some of the energy of the impact and saved damage to my truck itself. (I do believe the upper front end brush bars cause more damage but I've already listed why I think they are worthless anyway). All of that was irrelevant as I turned it into insurance and they paid out for the damage to my vehicle plus all of my lights (even though not all were damaged) and my WAAG bar to boot. Overall, the PreRunner saved me tons in bumper repair, probably decreased collision damage and was compensated for by insurance when it was damaged. The second benefit of a PreRunner or Stinger is as an anchor for auxiliary lights. This was the primary reason I mounted mine as I was living in Phoenix at the time and often ended up in the backcountry at night. The desert just requires ALOT of light. I used the lower lateral hoops to mount 2 130w KC Slimlight Flood Lights just inboard of the stock fog lights (which are worthless for anything except seeing potholes right in front of your truck or running a lower light in a campground at night) and I used the upper bar to mount 2 130w KD Slimlight Driving Lights. My Driving Lights punched forward way better than my highs (even with 4100K PIAA Halogens in them) and I had the lateral floods just overlap with the driving lights so that I had about 200* of forward facing light. I think if you just want a stinger bar for aesthetics and to mount some auxiliary lights, go for it. It's cheap if you can do it yourself and it might give you some functionality. Admittedly, the new light bars these days make this less necessary than in the past. Look at @02_Pathy (NPORA) / theblackpathfidner (IG) for a nice LED bar integration. I've seen his truck and I think it is one of the most elegant, simple but functional builds out there. (I console myself that they just didn't have light bars, or LEDs when I was doing my build out). See my Avatar on IG for my front end in its prime. My avatar here is a little worse & below is a recent pic but I’ve pulled the grill to play with an SE grill & Raptor light mod-so it looks terrible-but you can see to some degree how the bar collapsed decreasing overall damage & saved all my lights (though I pulled one off in the pic). I also posted the black Pathfinder to show a great alternative (he’s just showing off by beating me to the Raptor mod-JK). BTW, I think the stinger bar in that pic next to[mention=39321]mjotrainbrain[/mention] looks nice (thanks for the pic).
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The Limited 4th Gens had them & maybe some premium models. You might be able to harvest some from a 4thGen in a JY. While I’m glad I have them, the Pathy’s are the worst of any car I’ve owned or driven. Very slow, very cyclic & minimally adjustable. Also, I can’t remember if it does my back or not-I think not.
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Looks good but I think you need to add another set of undercarriage lights to light the front if the front wheels. Overall fantastic project!!
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Strong feelings about aftermarket front axles?
RainGoat replied to malacandro's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Search Rockford CV Boots for the recommended boot replacement on the CVs. I haven’t done it yet but it gets rave reviews. Rockfordcv.com Pt#166-21 & 166-23 (2 of each) per prior posters -
Early sign of blown head gasket?
RainGoat replied to JackFletcher's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Amazes me that people are allowed to drive their car without knowing at least the basic differences between the caps under the hood... At least it’s a somewhat self correcting problem -
zakzackzachary's 2000 R50 new to PNW from AK
RainGoat replied to zakzackzachary's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Thanks for the update. Everybody overlooks things now & then. Thanks for letting your experience be a reminder to us all. I just bit the bullet & purchased OME struts. I could totally make the same error & would be less capable to fix it - so thanks for the forewarning! -
(FACTORY)Wiring Diagram XENON HID R50
RainGoat replied to Mrelcocko's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
17&32 Working. I’m on Tapatalk. Thx!! -
My current Nav setup. Will likely drop the Nuvi, especially once the new head unit goes in with Waze. Add my phone to that magnet mount with Google Maps & I could have 4 maps running at once - probably too much!
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Are these the cargo floor ones you’re talking about or something else? I thought you meant something like this
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It’s worth noting that it may compromise safety in a front impact as it likely inhibits ejecting the drivetrain components down & away from the passenger compartment. I’m not saying you shouldn’t do it, just pointing out pros & cons.
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(FACTORY)Wiring Diagram XENON HID R50
RainGoat replied to Mrelcocko's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Like not working -
@TowndawgR50 just helped me install some front trailing arm skids on my Mom’s T4R. It gave him ideas..... I think this pic should only serve to reinforce them. Boy those new links he made look nice!
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Yep, that’s why my truck has been sitting untouched in the garage for a month. Why the flex seal? I just did mine in stainless. REALLY interested in your idea of a fold down table on the tire carrier. Please post a write up. We are about to do 4 post facelift swingate retrofits up here in the PNW &!I would LOVE to put a fold down table on more mine!
