RainGoat

Generally, they all go bad. It’s the one recurrent problem I’ve had. Changed out 4 by 100K, though one is still OEM & another was a replacement that went bad. Luckily, they only take about 15” to replace. Drop them from the top & zip tie to your old line, cutting off the old heads. You’ll get plenty of practice.

@StPickens Love that the OEM deflector fits-why no fairing on the Rola? If it’s staying that way, make sure to plug those 4 fairing screw holes. The Rola is infamous for rusting on the inside (I actually shot spray paint down the inside of all my tubes).

For 106K & 16 years I ran Mobil 1 & changed it every 6-8,000 miles. When my power valve screws killed my engine the inside was pristine, still with crosshatching on the inside of the cylinders. No sludge & essentially no “varnish”. The mechanics thought it was the nicest looking engine of that age/mileage they had ever seen. I now shoot for every 8K, meaning I’ll usually get it between 8-9K.

Oops. That was a quick cut & paste of my notes. 12 screws. Hopefully they’re all there & you just reuse them. Mine, unfortunately, ultimately had to come from my JDM engine replacement : ( Use the linked thread for good info.

I’m not sure that’s true. I believe the SE racks only anchor with 4 points with 2 bolts per point (I haven’t dissected one so I’m basing that on 4 base points). The roof rails on the LE have 6 anchor points of 2 bolts each. Most attaching a Rola V-Tech are then bolting to the rails with 4-12 points.

[mention=39745]StPickens[/mention],[mention=41155]Astrorami[/mention] & myself have all taken slightly different approaches to this problem with the Rola V-Tech rack. I wanted elevation to allow cam strap hooks on the lower 1” diameter Rola bar &[mention=39745]StPickens[/mention] preserved his sunroof deflector. Without elevation, @02_Pathy had some sunroof function complications.

$3-6K for a ‘00-04 Pathy in Seattle with most $3-4K. Maintenance & condition are everything. It sounds like both of those are excellent in this case. For San Fran, it’s probably a little high but I’m sure he could get $4K for it & it’s not unthinkable he could get $5K though the miles seem a little high for that. Good ones here could be $5Kish too. BTW, make sure you do the Power Valve Fix if he hasn’t already. If it was a CA sold car originally, it would have qualified for the CA class action suit so there is a fair chance it was done - but check.

Not disagreeing re ways to mitigate the older crossbars weaknesses, but the newer ones are magnitudes stronger. I’ve carried two 16’ sea kayaks on a 5 day, almost entirely off-road, adventure in rough Arizona. More impressively, I emergency stopped from about 35-40 mph with four 3/4” sub floor 4x8’ plywood panels plus about 8-10 treated 8-10’ 2x4”s. They flexed enough to contact & crack my sunroof deflector but no damage to the bars, rack or mounts. (Coincidentally, that happened on Woodinville-Duvall Rd-probably a 1/4 mile from Micah’s folks). If your going full roof, most of us are using conduit clamps & bolting the Rola V-Tech right into the rails.

+1 on both of above. Frankly, you’d be amazed at what stock will do. The rear OEM springs needed support when new (I used air lifts). LR springs in the rear are extremely cost effective-probably best combined with ARB OME front springs & spacers to level.

Those non-elevated “bars” are just roof protectors. Not a bad idea & easily transferrable. I didn’t need them as I put a Yakima Basket case spanning my rails between my load bars. Also, as an FYI, Yakima bars adapters work easily for mounting a Hi-Lift on your bars (just be careful putting it up there-that nose will crack your windows in a split second)

By Notorious Valve Cover, I assume you mean the Power Valves-here are some notes: POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1 Power Valve (Butterfly Valve) Screws on Intake Plenum They are power/swirl valves...the swirl valve actuator is what opens and closes them 6 butterfly valves in the upper manifold held in with 2 screws each tiny phillips screws, size and thread pattern is m3x.50 10mm length Remove each screw & Loctite red threadlocker=permanent 2-3hrs, just a lot of bits and pieces to take off/put back on page EM-10 for torque specs for all of the removed hardware, and EM-12 for the upper intake manifold bolts. Intake Manifold torque-all 12mm bolts and nuts at 20lbs. Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) Power Valve Butterfly Valve Screws Altima Part#14511-8J00B they come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Three Bond 1375B, Nissan Part#14511-8J01B.

Just as an FYI, while they’re lower profile & better looking in my opinion as well, they are notably less stout & some have failed.

I love what sleepers those cars are. Most people think it’s a Mustang or something, not a Supercar. Also, having ridden in the backseat while my brother test drove one, while a little plasticy, you totally can put people back there for around town-4 seater supercar, awesome. Finally, while likely more finicky than your average Nissan, still probably more reliable than probably every other supercar out there. Also a car I like in burnt orange & carbon fiber and I never thought I’d like burnt orange!

The salt on the North Coast there really eats trucks up. In the NW I see a handful every day. As for the rear window deflector-there are 2 variations. That one looks like mine (‘02 LE) where the rear glass hatch is also the deflector mounting point. Another earlier version (possibly as late as ‘01) uses a deflector mount that is separate from the glass hinge. I think the glass hinge location is a constant & the deflector mounting point varies (slightly wider mounting point on the separate unit). One thing to consider is if you plan a full length rack. I’m putting the Rola V-Tech on mine & the deflector is then both functionally pretty useless plus it gets in the way reaching the rear of the rack, needing the rack farther forward to accommodate the deflector when the hatch is up & getting in the way of rack mounted, rear facing lights.

I drove a 2004 Outback for 6 months while living in Phoenix. While I had my truck there, I soon realized that the Outback could do about 80% of the Overlanding type trips I was doing. Mine was a brand new rental so I really got the chance to test it. Decent AWD combined with 8-8.5” clearance meant it could do ALOT. I did grind the four corners down through the paint as its approach & departure angles are wanting. On the other hand, I could throw a bike in the back easy, I could comfortably sit with my back against the side of the open hatch, I could lay down flat with my head resting on the folded rear headrests & read & look out through the open hatch. When that car was assigned to me at the airport, I dreaded it. Ultimately though, National had to call me six months later & require me to return it so that they could move it up to Salt Lake for the winter. That 6mo was when I learned to respect Subaru. That Outback was the little engine that could. An incredibly practical & usefull vehicle. Have fun with it Micah!

That’s a nice switch panel!

JDM Astar I assume? The LEDs from them & LUYED seem pretty good. I’d put Diode Dynamics at the top with DDM Tuning below that & then Mictuning, iJDMToy & JDM Astar. I’ve been thinking Alla & LUYED might belong there as well. I am trying both & will be interested in your long term results too. I’ve definitely learned my lesson about cheapies bit I’ve wanted to explore these lower cost ones for good quality at a good price. Longevity is the key to value there. BTW, LUYED certainly spares no attention to packaging, huh, mine came in literally beautiful little boxes.

Wow, good on ya!

Just as an FYI, Por-15 Chasis Black matches up pretty well with the other aged exterior blacks on the truck. I redid my WAAG bars, OEM hitch & swingate with it.

Search the threads, there’s at least 2 which are extensive. I know one is by@ferrariowner123 but there’s also another common poster who has done it as well. (I’d hunt it down but I’m on Tapatalk mobile right now).

[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] &@QuasarDecimari How about a “How To” for those of not as mechanically gifted as the two of you. As this issue undoubtedly effects safety, it sounds to me like it should be part & parcel of any lift.

@ferrariowner123 imports them from Japan. I believe he helped broker a purchase for[mention=38818]micahfelker[/mention]

Nope, that’s very similar to my rear WAAG bar. The dip on the lower bar looks like the WAAG rear bar for the XTerra- this company may have just modified it for the R50. I note, however, that this version doesn’t appear to be a solid piece all the way to the frame like mine is. Beware, the front & rear bumpers have very different profiles - the rear is much more straight.

I imagine you can find some as bolt on extras to Jeep XJ bumper kits. Should be