RainGoat

The OMEs are probably the best ride quality but unfortunately only come in medium duty for the rear (heavy duty available for the front) & are expensive. The LR Defender springs for the rear are getting great reviews - ride quality sounds on par with the OME but less expensive & with higher spring rates if desired. AC is reliably 2” but pretty harsh by all reports. As an FYI, the LR Springs from LR direct are about $80-85 total (& $50 of that is shipping) from LR direct. I ordered mine Friday & they were on my doorstep in Seattle on Monday. Here is the LR info summarized to date: Land Rover Defender 90 Spring Summary http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html 5” Inner Diameter NRC9446 +2.5-3” (15Spring Ht) 0.5-1" rake c 2 front spacers 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Driver (0.5" longer than passenger) NRC9447 +2-2.5" (Micah got 4") 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Passenger NRC9448 +4(Perfect c 4"SFD), cut one coil=3" 225# Spring Rate Blue”/Red LR 90 Defender-RearRH 110 & 130 Heavy Duty-Front RH $80 Delivered from UK $84.49($32.92+$51.57) from NRC9449 +2-2.5" (same Height as NRC9447) 225# Spring Rate (heavier Load than NRC9447) 1badqx4 9446: neilca(35"F/36"R c 31"tireMid Fender Ht) 9447: 19pathfinder99, MichaelAndrews, micahfelker(37-37.5" c 31"tire, MD OME Springs, F=HD OME), thehillboys (Bilstein 1525 shocks) LR - 34 1/4" to 38 1/2" settled to 37.5" net 3 1/4" RR-33 3/4" to 38" settled to 37.5" net 3 3/4" Front 35” c Moog OEM Springs, KYB Struts & 1 1/2" spacer LF - 32 1/2" to 35 net 2 1/2" (slightly uneven shop floor) LR- 32" to 35 net 3" Rake 2.5” 9448: hawairish(3”SFD), TowndawgR50(4”SFD), Bax03SE(37"F/38"R c 33"tire Mid Fender Ht-1 coil cut), drewp29, Jax99(3”SFD) 9449: 03Troutfinder (36.5" from 34", same ht as OEM Spring+2”spacer) Order from LRdirect Brands-few reviews on LR forums say Brit Part (c8) springs held up better than OEM Land Rover against sagging

Well, you have me by one ; ). The spare parts are a nice touch!

I haven’t heard of anyone running it who doesn’t like it. Lots of positive press in the Australian forums & TowndawgR50 loves his. Also, you can occasionally get them for $350. My only reservation is that I use the AWD (open center-as opposed to 4Hi or Lo) on my tx14 quite alot here in the wet NW. The Lokka would always be ticking on turns & occasionally doesn’t unlock in the slick-both of which would be annoying. Nevertheless, with a rear LSD already in place it’s a much cheaper option than an air locker. Frankly, It’s a no brainer with the tx10 transmission as you’d only notice it when you switch into 4WD & have your front hubs locked.

Instructions for the Lokka are on the web. I think I watched through some good Australian ones on PCoA.@TowndawgR50 loves his Lokka & says it’s pretty easy to install.

See what I mean - slow! I have a 17” ProComp spare that was my roof spare in the old days (as well as the OEM spare) but I haven’t yet decided on my final tire/wheel size. Given how everything is trial & error here, I figured I better wait until the SFD is actually on to do that. I also have a perfectly good set of Toyo Open Country ATIIs that have served me well. I’m planning on replacing them when I go larger but I don’t feel any sense of urgency. I fully expect a ridiculous transitional period when I’m abnormally raked & on tiny tires but it’s been smashed in the front for nearly 2 years anyway & my wife has zero interest in driving or riding in it so it won’t be much of an aesthetic change. For my final product, I’m leaning towards black ProComp(ish) steelies with the proper backspacing rather than spacers. Of course aluminum is all the smarter up here as it’s not nearly as rocky as the SW here & AL doesn’t corrode. However, steelies are cheap & easy enough to repaint as they wear. My whole truck is slowly creeping towards POR 15 Chassis Black accenting-the satin finish matches up pretty well with all my factory faded black. (Even my mailbox is now Chassis Black-it will be a long term UV/wet weather exposure test case) Tires of course are another area of debate. Likely the largest BFGs that will fit.@TowndawgR50 was advocating for a KO2 & a KM set. I think I’m both too cheap & too lazy to do that. Originally, I was leaning towards the new KM IIIs as this truck will largely be local only & the IIIs are supposed to be both quieter & track better than the IIs (though every review I’ve read was from someone who got them for free so I don’t really trust them). Probably just go with KO2s (unless KO3s show up during my delay). I’ve heard good things about the Falken Wildpeaks but never teally heard why one should get them over KO2s (other than cost I presume).

Is darwinpasta you? Wow, you’ve got a lot of videos!

Slowly chipping away at that swingate retrofit project.

As an FYI, a number of us are getting together this coming weekend as hawairish is coming to town. I thought you guys might be too far out to care but maybe not. Do you want to be kept in the loop when we’re doing stuff? I think right now it’s me, ferrariowner123, Pathy_02 & TownDawgR50. Invites extended to Stpickens, micahfelker, bobsterrific, Mr. Jim @ Cam (can’t remember his NPORA handle).

Check out PCMags recommendations: https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2372364,00.asp

Ha, Ha, it takes a NWer to understand how true that is though with SE OR, I think@poachr may have you beat.

You can get those Gold Plugs for $19, I have them in 2 vehicles, a Fumato on another & an old Fram Sure Drain (SD-3) for my Path. The quick drains are nice but I worry about them on an off road vehicle if it doesn’t have skids, also, it’s not like undoing a drain plug is hard. I can’t say I’ve ever really seen anything on the magnets but they were only $19. I didn’t even know oil filters might have magnets in them (I’m going to have to look into that-that’s definitely the way to do it-definitely would make a plug redundant). Finally, there are cheap pot metal magnetic plugs out there-don’t get those. The Gold Plug is decent quality.

@TowndawgR50 Dates need correcting 11/16-18/2018

Just be careful of lateral snatches. Also, making a bridle that runs straight from one to the other has been known to crunch the radiator support

[mention=37689]Bobsteriffic[/mention]@Slartibartfast @poachr

Guest of honor@hawairish, all the way from the SW

@stpickens

Well, once the surprise is done, make sure to point him in this direction. He’ll be able to learn about his truck & get good advice from those who have done it. It’s a nice little community here.

You might want a keeper on them, especially if they end up upside down.

Oops, I guess I missed that it was a MT

Yep@TowndawgR50 has exactly the same things to say about his LR Spring & Bilstein 5165 experience. He loves their firmness & really notices their resilience in comparison to his 5100s. That’s how he convinced me. However, I’m looking at a 3-4” SFD with a total lift about 4” so neither of your 5165s will work for me. Now I’ve got to get those smarter than me to figure out which ones I need (ahem,@hawairish &@TownDawgR50).

That’s probably this issu: Basically, you had 4 years of the VQ35DE in an R50. 04: Drive By Wire 03: Drive By Wire 02: Throttle Cable + Black Plastic Valve Covers 01: Throttle Cable + Aluminum Valve Covers.

Thanks for posting the parts list. BTW, where did you get the manifold blocks? I want some for my diff breather project but I’m not sure where to find them (or connecting hose for that matter). Have fun on the trails & keep safe from the fires!

BTW, you have an awesome name! Kind of sounds like Jack Reacher. And just to be clear-@hawairish advice totally trumps mine. He has an incredible amount of hands on experience.

The vast majority of people are running 2” suspension lift. 31” Tires no problem. 32” if you use spacers or a 3.75” backspace wheel. This can be done relatively inexpensively & on your own.

Once the Birthday Surprise is out of the bag, make sure he either does this repair or has it done. It’s about 2-3 hour shop time + new gaskets. Not doing it runs the risk of losing an engine - it’s just easier to be sure it’s done. POWER VALVES http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/?do=embed