RainGoat

For what it’s worth, that’s not Western WA’s fault. Also to your point, all my life it’s always been more welcoming entering Canada than it has been even when I return home. It’s only been on the U.S. side that I’ve had to unpack my truck before & been yelled at because the window was up on my then 2 year old’s side. Our enhanced Driver’s License & Passport Card RFIDs do seem to help as now the U.S. guy now seems to understand it’s two forty somethings & their young kids in that luggage jammed SUV. Great weather right now (Frankly too hot for us NWers-but dry). Also, bad mosquitoes this year-worst I can remember (which almost means any mosquitoes here in the NW-we’re spoiled). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link the new thread when it starts. TownDawgR50 has convinced me I need a front locker. The Lokka is very enticing because of the price & simplicity, however, I’d like to retain my AWD fx if possible but I didn’t want to spend the >$1200 that the ARB ends up costing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ack! I’m about to put an aftermarket Pioneer head unit in mine & I bought the switch interface as I’d like to retain that fx too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Not sure it’s been said but your work is lovely! I expect every one of us wishes our truck looked as clean as your finished product. I’m curious, what paint did you use & why it over others? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Where are you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Trialed packing for 3

Out & About in Mount Baker NF last week.

Frontrunner is very highly thought of in the T4R community. A million accessories but all at high cost. I do love their undermount stainless steel prep table though-that’s a great idea. I kind of like the Rhino racks a little better as they run front to back & I expect have less noise & drag. One downside is that you can’t just omit a transverse bar if you want to accommodate a sunroof. Rhino rack platform is also a little broader making them easier to walk on. Finally, they have a great center channel which you can put tie downs or a nice little rubber strip in. Prinsu also has a good rep but you need to drill an opening in the slots to put anchors in the track if you don’t want to disassemble it each time. All that said, I’m putting a Rola V-Tech with extension on mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Beautiful Pic!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ah, neilaca, your CA is showing. I get work done on vehicles in Seattle & Kansas City & it’s like it’s two different worlds. The West Coast is ridiculous on parts & labor but unfortunately that’s where the R50 is located. I’ve actually bought my last 2 vehicles elsewhere & shipped or driven them back, saving thousands on each-thank heavens for the internet. As for transmissions, I can only vaguely remember a post from enjoi408. The shop that rebuilt my engine after the power valve debacle says they can’t ever remember fixing a Pathfinder transmission but that they did Xterras regularly. At TowndawgR50’s (& now neilca’s advice), I’m going to add a cooler as I want another decade & 100K out of mine. WARNING-If you are looking to buy, immediately secure the power valves. It’s a relatively easy & inexpensive fix but failing to do so can be tragic. Just search it on the forum!

I’m still working on a clean application for the rear. I’m also working on a ceiling net & ultimately a MOLLE rack for the driver’s side cargo window. All that said, I’d rather have hawairish‘ rear cargo area rack-that thing is great!

Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo. If I’m going on a trip where I’ll be off-road a lot, I like to throw a net over the cargo area to hold all the loose stuff down. My critically heavy items are camstrapped to the floor cargo tie downs, but the net just attaches to the fairly weak upper cargo points & the rear seat headrest posts if the rear seats are up. I’ve been wanting to do the cargo tie downs for 14 years. My thought was to simply use eye bolts where the machine screws anchor in the body. Those are M6x1.0 threads, however, and metric eye bolts, particularly in stainless or zinc, are quite difficult to find. Combined with a lack of motivation, this usually stopped me. When I had a time limit to solve an essentially identical problem in my Mom’s new 4Runner I was finally forced to get it done (admittedly, testing it on the Path first). The key was ridiculously obvious. I simply needed to rethread the frame bolts to 1/4” & I would have endless hardware options. Warning, this is an irreversible step. You can remove the metal arms or even fold them out-I just kept them folded for now. A slightly shortened spacer would recess the eye hook some, which I would prefer, but a hardware option wasn’t readily available to me. You could also use washers instead of a spacer. If you remove the metal arm entirely, you can use a single washer for a much more recessed eye bolt-though I think it then reaches the point of being too difficult to use (you also may want a shorter eye bolt). Anyway, here is the modification for anyone who is interested. Cargo Tie Downs: (2 above cargo window/2 in front of tonneau cover slot) Rethread M6x1.0 frame machine screw holes with a 1/4” tap. Spacer-Chrome Steel 0.5x0.25” [Everbuilt] 2 pack x2 Eyebolt-Stainless Steel 0.25” x 2” (6.3x50.8mm) 160#(72.5kg ) Working Load Limit [Everbuilt] SKU372941 2 pack x2

Good to know, I’ll take a look too, though I despise that old school machismo cr@9 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[quote Alabama Dan-you have a very cool avatar

This is what happens when you use one truck as a toolbox while you work on another. She’s been patient while I worked on my Mom’s new 4Runner. Now it’s time for some love for the Pathy. Actually, all the developed products for the 4Runner have given me some good ideas on how to jury rig similar mods in my old girl! I’ve even got some RRO Sliders that have been sitting in a box unopened for almost 2 months. So much to do!

Looks great guys!! Thanks for all your hard work.

Over 16 years & 106K miles I have had no leaks & have never had anything near that volume. More like a quart every 6-10,000 miles/1year.

T4R.org is probably the best. It’s massive in size. With time you learn to whom to listen but there’s a lot more “Bro” culture you have to sift through. I follow 4 vehicles & NPORA is definitely the best! BTW, I’m RainGoat on T4R as well.

Hip, hip, hooray! Very exciting!

Okay, can’t resist plugging a front receiver again. I don’t even need a front receiver but it would be SUPER handy (TownDawgR50 could certainly use it & you said you were considering a trailer). Personally, I only want one new bumper, period & I would like the most functionality out of it. I think anyone who would purchase these brackets (& really anyone with an R50 who would consider a winch) will not see relocating the winch solenoid as a barrier. Technically, that’s an easy process that anyone who can mount a bumper should be able to do. Giving up the option of a front receiver to avoid that is a pretty hefty price to pay. Anyway, you know I’m on board however it ends up. I’ve certainly got enough to do already that the timeline is fine for me too (though my wife is getting a little tired of my winch in our entryway - or maybe it’s the rack segments stacked up under the coffee table-it’s hard to tell)

Here is the composite forum experience to date. Look up the Land Rover Spring thread for details: Land Rover Defender 90 Spring Summary http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html 5” Inner Diameter NRC9446 +2.5-3 (15Spring Ht) 0.5-1" rake c 2 front spacers 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Driver (0.5" longer than passenger) NRC9447 +2-2.5" (Micah got 4") 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Passenger NRC9448 +4(Perfect c 4"SFD), cut one coil=3" 225# Spring Rate (LR 90 Defender-Rears) $80 Delivered from UK NRC9449 +2-2.5" (same Height as NRC9447) 225# Spring Rate (heavier Load than NRC9447) 1badqx4 9446: neilca(35"F/36"R c 31"tireMid Fender Ht) 9447: 19pathfinder99, MichaelAndrews, micahfelker(37-37.5" c 31"tire, MD OME Springs, F=HD OME), thehillboys (Bilstein 1525 shocks) LR - 34 1/4" to 38 1/2" settled to 37.5" net 3 1/4" RR-33 3/4" to 38" settled to 37.5" net 3 3/4" Front 35” c Moog OEM Springs, KYB Struts & 1 1/2" spacer LF - 32 1/2" to 35 net 2 1/2" (slightly uneven shop floor) LR- 32" to 35 net 3" Rake 2.5” 9448: hawairish, TowndawgR50, drewp29, Bax03SE(37"F/38"R c 33"tire Mid Fender Ht-1 coil cut) 9449: 03Troutfinder (36.5" from 34", same ht as OEM Spring+2”spacer) Order from LRdirect Brands-few reviews on LR forums say Brit Part (c8) springs held up better than OEM Land Rover against sagging Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

CB looks good! Lusting after all those empty switch blanks below it. Where did you get the tailgate antenna mount bracket?

Bax03SE, do you know what wheel backspacing will clear the strut? Here are my notes to date (including Bax03SE’s): at a little over 32” they will hit your strut. anything over 31” tall will require either a spacer or a wheel with at least 3.75” backspacing to clear the strut. 245/70/17 would give you another inch over stock tires, and would fit on stock rims/stock height with little to no trimming. **Fits up to 265/75r16 (~32x10.5) without any problems 265/70 r16 tires should be the biggest you can do and still will probably have a rub. Be careful! keep in mind wheel backspacing for strut clearance. 265/70/16 will clear the strut. 265/75/16 will sometimes clear and sometimes hit depending on the tire brand and how aggressive the tread is. Anything bigger will require either wheel spacers or new wheels with less backspacing.[bax03SE’s] Bridgestone AT's (LT255/70/16) So 0 offset rubs rear guards but no contact on the front. +7 rubs a little at the rear and little on the full right lock, but has the benefit of sitting inside the guards better. By the looks of that +10 would fit, but it will scrub harder on a hard right turn 265/70/16 Grabber A/T, a little bit of scrubbing on the splash guard at the front but that was easily fixed, by pulling it up more to my bullbar with some cable ties. Other then that all good. I haven't taking them offroad yet to see if they will rub on the rear guard, if they do I think it would be a light rub that I could put up with. <http://pcoa.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7263&start=15>

First off, you needed to include a pic of that fantastic skid plate-you can barely see it in those pics. I’ve seen hawairish’s bumper brackets in person & they are going to be well engineered. He’s currently tweaking for more universal application & fit & finish. I liked his as is already. Personally, I’m waiting for his product because it is so well thought out. His is simply a superior mechanical design to anything I’ve seen before. I’m going to take this opportunity to plug for a front receiver option again too. I don’t really need it but I know they’re super handy! As an FYI, he is building his own rear bumper too but I’m not sure if he has any distribution plans for it.......?

Ditto. Great idea with the receiver lock. Once I get my rack on I’d like to fashion something similar. I have the same boards & asked around about them at ExpoWest with encouraging reviews. Can’t beat them for the price. BTW, relieved you addressed the power valve screws-most disappointing car day of my life.