RainGoat

You shouldn’t need a dealership. As hawairish said, you’ll likely have to walk them through it - I did at first & then the actual mechanic totally got it. Sometimes a picture helps - here’s my sad one. Here is the Altima TSB (NTB05-058) but it’s worth noting that the Altima part (#14511-8J00B) come with washers on them which are kind of a pain to remove but need to come off. Also uses Three Bond 1375B (Nissan Part#14511-8J01B) but red Loctite is just as good). Here’s the CA class action lawsuit that Nissan “knows nothing about”.: https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/closed-settlements/359084-california-nissan-power-valve-screw-class-action-settlement/ Sorry, I have to leave for anger management therapy now....

I’m about to do a fluid change on everything & noticed I couldn’t find recommendations on NPORA. I’ve heard of using Amsoil, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Red Line, Motul, Castrol & Mobil One. I’ve also heard of friction additives necessary with some. I thought a discussion of people’s preferences, schedules & pearls of wisdom might be a lively exchange! Oh yeah, volumes too.

More info please?

Great Find! I’ve been needing to do this to my Mom’s 4Runner & now I think I’ll tackle the Pathy as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Stripped off my load bars, rail mounted Yakima Basket Case, all the rail slides & the rails themselves in preparation for mounting a full length Rola V-Tech rack. I haven’t been able to adequately access the roof under that Yakima basket for about 14 years. I’m going to clean it all up, wax it & remount the rails. I’m still working on the rack mount. I’ll use the rail slides & conduit clamps but after seeing another R50 with just those (Pathy_02), I feel it needs another 1cm - 1” elevation to be able to put cam strap hooks around the lower bars & that will also allow the sunroof to function without interference. Something tells me that I’ll be dealing with wind noise once I do that.

Do I see that those came with side marker lights as well?

hawairish, you are knocking it out with NPORA comments this last month. As you can imagine, I’m sooo gratified to see all the Power Valve warnings as that is my saddest auto event to date & has stained my soul. Can you post the links to those IACV/ECU issues, I don’t know that I’ve done those.

Welcome! That’s a beautiful truck. I really like the white (Look up “stioc” on Expedition Portal sometime). I believe I’m the guy hawairish is referring to about the power valve screws. It’s only a couple hours work or 2-3* at a mechanic. Cost me a lovingly maintained mint engine so definitely attend to it ASAP. Once that’s done, it will last FOREVER. I’ve had mine 16 years & plan on another decade.

Pathfinder Pest Control. Tried a new way to kill off the moles who are destroying my yard....we’ll see if it works?

I broke one of those little trim tabs in the upper trim just inside the rear hatch. Nissan said there was one left in the country & it was in Massachusetts & ~$7. I passed-JY it is!

OMG that’s a funny post!

Check out, Pathy_02 (That_Black_Pathfinder on IG) He really should have done a write-up. Great Project & I think the first to do it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It’s true, sometimes my dreams look like this..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Measure your height now & after the LR springs are in & let us know. Here’s what I think we have to date on the 9446 NRC9446 +2.5-3 (15Spring Ht) 0.5-1" rake c 2 front spacers 175# Spring Rate LR 90 Defender-Front Driver (0.5" longer than passenger) I think only neilca has put this particular one on so far with the following measurements 35"F/36"R c 31"tireMid Fender Ht

Once again, nice little write up. Keep up the good work!

Oh yeah, I get that!

Great little write up. Maybe Admin can sticky it or make it its own thread! Nice job.

Are those in series, as opposed to isolated?

Best set up I’ve seen is by XPLOx4 https://xplorx4.shutterfly.com/437 “I installed dual batteries for emergency starting purposes, since I occasionally drained the main battery during long camping trips while using my 12v refrigerator. The main battery is an X2Power SLI34AGMDPM battery, and the emergency starting battery is a compact Odyssey PC680. The batteries are kept in isolation using a Hellroaring battery isolator, except when using a dash-mounted switch to connect the two together.”

You should be able to buy a fob for $17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTJ9I46/?coliid=IM163KMC8BJ24&colid=2TXANA5SUZVXM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Programming the fob is free-you follow a simple set of instructions with the truck & fob. If you got a newly programmed chip in a key, that was a reasonable deal@~$100. Stealerships usually charge ~$200-250. If you get a flip key version, you can dig the chip out of your key & put it in the fob/flipkey.

Hawairish, as always, great write up. You clearly are avoiding some other job or project. Seriously though, this should get stickied or put into an electrical thread. I’m going to want to read it again later & others might want to see it too. Can we see if an Admin can fix it.

Finally LPD 3’d my old engine & stored it before the rainy season (Oct-June) started.

Not that it solved the lock cylinder issue but remotes are super cheap & easy as pie to program. The expensive thing is the chip in your key for the ignition.

It should function just as you described for your ‘01

Broken