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Adding the Rear Window 'Popper'


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Hey everyone, I recently added the rear window opening switch to my 1995 XE. I essentially guessed my way through the whole thing, but all went without any real hangups.


it's quite a simple procedure if you have a donor truck. If anyone is interested, I could attempt a wtite-up. Just let me know. I may be incorporating the power lock for the hatch as well in the near future.

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Not needed by me personally but a nice write-up preferably with some clear pics could help many members current and future who would like to embark on this quest. Please feel free to make one!

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Oh wow ok looks like I've got something to do tomorrow haha. I had no idea there would be this much interest, kind of figured almost all pathys came with it.

I'll do my best to keep it un-screw-up-able ;D

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Good Lord, I had no idea how lucky I was. Mine works and I ownly play with (use) it occasionally..all this time I guess I kinda took my little popper for granted...:(

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Ok, so I would first like to thank Mr. Alvarez (The_Magicians_Eye) for the incredibly helpful video that can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8NK8zcZJif8#t=393s

I highly suggest checking out this video, as the rear hatch works with many of the same mechanisms. He also shows you how to work with the clips (the pink one is the same as the type in the hatch) without breaking them.


What you'll need:

Philips Screwdriver

10mm Socket and Ratchet or Wrench

Wire Cutters

Electrical Tape or Heatshrink

Wire (I used 14ga, you'll need enough to run from the hatch to the center console or dash)

Donor Parts


First, we obviously need to gain access to the mechanism. There's 2 plastic screws at the bottom and 2 metal ones holding the plastic shroud at the top. Remove them and pull off the plastic trim pieces. (There are clips inside, a firm yet careful yank and we're in business)



Your donor truck should look something like this:


While your sad, popper-less truck should look something like this for comparison:




Make sure you get:

The mounting bracket (with the actuator attached)

The 5 screws that hold the bracket on

The connecting rod and white clips on both sides

The electrical connector.


Clip the two wires about 4-6" from the connector so you can strip and extend the leads later.

Take note of how the connecting rod is oriented before removal, there is a bend in it. I forgot to and had to mess with it until it fit.

Depending on how big your hands are, it may be easier to remove the latch mechanism (10mm socket) to get better access to the plastic clip you need.

If you do this, make sure to unclip the end connected to the actuator first.

Here's what the latch looks like out of the car so you can see where the white clip is, since its nearly impossible to see it or get at it otherwise: (same orientation as previous pics)




Don't forget to grab your window popper switch and the electrical connector! (the switch looks really cool)

I believe they are located on the left side of the dash for the square style interior and next to the handbrake for the 94-95

Note: The switch is supposed to be a momentary type switch that springs back to its original position when you let go.

A bit of electrical contact cleaner and a couple mins of flipping the switch back and forth might unstick an old switch







Now hopefully you've got all the parts you need and we can get that window poppin!


IIRC, the easiest way to get the connecting rod in there was to start with removing the latch and attaching the clip while it was out of the truck.

Then, carefully attach the connecting rod to the clip and feed it through the hole and leave the latch unscrewed in case you need some wiggle room.


Your truck will have holes all ready for the bracket, so go ahead and try to finesse the connecting rod into its place on the actuator and screw in the bracket.

Try and use the best sized driver you can for the screws, they might be a bit tough to get started from paint in the holes and IIRC the screws were relatively soft metal.

Edit: Screw the window latch back in... It wont happen by itself lol


When you think you've got that all done, close your window and gently pull the connecting rod toward the right and down.

If your window doesn't shut and/or open when you pull on the connecting rod, you probably put it back in the wrong way. It is possible to mess around bending it until it's just right, just be careful/gentle... most of these components are somewhat delicate.


For reference, here's my attempt to make a sort of x-ray/cross-section view of the mechanism for an easier understanding

Note: The connecting rod does have a bend in it, and it's not quiiite to scale but you should get the general concept




Now it's just down to the wiring!

Strip the ends of the wire pigtails for the switch and the actuator, leaving about 1"-1.5" exposed.

Connect the green with red/white wire to a body ground

One of the screws for the mounting bracket turned out to be sufficient for me

Extend the green with red stripe with some wire to wherever you want your switch

I used 14ga. This seemed adequate since it shouldnt see too much amperage and it will only be for an instant at a time. A relay seemed excessive to me.


When running wire in the hatch, it will help a lot if you have a cable snake, and if not a wire clothes hanger.

My grommet was not cooperating, so i kind of went around it...



When you've finished running that wire, strip the end of it and connect it with one of the stripped ends of the electrical connector for the switch.

The other end of the connector should be connected to a FUSED positive source.


As always, soldering connections makes for a better and more reliable connection and

remember to INSULATE YOUR CONNECTIONS with electrical tape and/or heatshrink!!


Connect your switch to the connector and pop that sucker in where a switch blank used to be.

Do a quick double check and make sure there's nothing obvious wrong with your wire (or pray to the gods of electricity) and give'er a test!


Let me know if you've got any questions/problems and I'll do my best to help y'all out!

Edited by tdauria
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so you are saying that the electrical connectors are not tucked up inside the rear door or under the console for the switch? In past experiences with Nissan they usually only use one harness and leave the unconnected plugs tucked up out of the way ??

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Thanks Nefarious!


And @ahardb0dy,

I know exactly what you're talking about and that's what i was hoping for, but I didn't see any extra connectors inside the rear door.

I didn't check behind the dash, but i recently had all the carpet/center console/seats out and the only wires running near the console where the seat belt and handbrake sensor wires. Since it's only one wire and a super simple circuit, I just went ahead and ran the wire.


Others may have the wiring in the truck already... I would suspect those with power locks might, since the lock actuator needs that bracket to be in there as well.

(My XE doesn't have cruise control, power locks/windows, intermittent wipers...the list goes on and on lol)

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Makes sense know that you say you have the completely stripped down model. I've only seen 3-4 non power window/lock 4 door Pathys before. I think 3 of those were 2WD. A few more stripped model 2WD, always the Z24 model.

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I have a 91 XE 2wd model and it has no pwr mirrors/locks of any sort, dont know if the cables/plugs are there, but it does have cruise control. tho it doesnt want to work at the moment. :/

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