tdauria

2002 & 2003 no pass side lock cylinders here both SE Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like you went to a firestone? Thats the printout i always got from them. I had the 'lifetime alignment' on my wd21 and just a heads up they only did toe. I was way out of spec on caster i think and they told me they couldnt do anything about it and it would always be like that. I tried many times to explain that the fsm clearly shows procedure for adjusting it and I always got another excuse like oh you need SHIMS? Thats not an alignment that wouldnt be included if we could even do it. Also witnessed a tech take a torch to my tre to free up the lock nut and melted my cv boot a bit.. Sorry for the rant but just wanted to give a heads up on this. I had a couple other shops mention the 'toe and go' firestone shennanigans as well. Maybe i just had bad experiences by chance but figured it was worth mentioning.

When you love your overly square tank-on-wheels so much that you sneak a little drawing of it into the app you're designing

Ive only had one so far, but that was probably due to insufficient silicone on the threads of the screw. I unscrewed the bolt/screw in question, applied some 'windo-weld' (i think it was called that or something similar, a type of black windshield sealant i had on hand) screwed it back in and back to leak free. One thing to note is that the xj rails are meant to be mounted on a level surface, but the spot I chose was angled out a bit, so the crossbars don't sit quite perfectly. I'll grab some pics and follow up with an explanation, without them I'm pretty sure ill be about as clear as mud lol

Good info, from the website it sounds like they're pretty open to working with whatever the customer would want. oh man the things I would do for that motoiq pathy lol for a while I knew more about that thing than my own pathfinder from reading those posts xD good to see it's with a forum member

I'd like to stay on the side of *most likely* possible, but absolutely agreed; the realization of having to deal with more O2 sensors had me running immediately.. Definitely on my to do list, my mechanic tends to check/tighten them as a courtesy when I bring it in for jobs I don't feel confident tackling myself, but the leak still tends to show up with a change in seasons I think. Hoping to get headers within the next year, fingers crossed everything falls into place for that --literally and figuratively. Haha maybe you're just not breathing in as much exhaust gasses anymore? Weird though, maybe it helped breathe slightly better past a restrictive(ish?) cat but still got enough gasses past the sensor to get a decent reading

Sometimes that's all that matters lol. Might mask a little bit of the manifold leak noise too! Definitely a good point with the water, I'll have to get a driver side inner fender for splash protection but other than that I generally avoid water crossings and deep mud ever since i had a bunch of mud hit the fan and well, now I truly understand the expression 'when the s--- hits the fan'.

Oh trust me, I've spent quite a bit of time drooling over the thought of doing those upgrades haha. At this point especially, I'm pretty sure spending that much on basically a tune for my stock engine wouldn't be worth it (doubly so for a broke college kid). So unfortunately we're pretty much in the same boat for the time being On the plus side, I could've sworn the POP charger cost $100+ the last time I checked. $65 doesn't sound too bad at all, and I've never really seen a negative review/comment about them only neutral or some degree of positive. I'll have to remember to do some research or inquire about an m30 POP charger, this would save me a little work as well adapting the m30 MAF bolt pattern to the pathy airbox (i think). Thanks for the input Gotcha I was never really all too clear on that, thanks!

UPDATE: Ordered last night off ebay for 40 bucks, and it's already been shipped! Time to start gathering the rest of the parts and sit behind the door waiting for ups..

Didn't even think about that. Even if adding all the sensors would make it work, it would definitely not be worth the effort for me haha Could you elaborate a little on what exactly being mapped differently means? Like air/fuel type stuff? Will be ordering an m30 ecu shortly Thanks, Tom

Hey all! It's been a while but hopefully I will be able to be a much more active user in the coming months (to each their own, but I loathe working on the truck in the cold lol) So, I have been reading up on the m30 ecu swap for quite some time recreationally like many others probably have. However, I recently realized how achievable this would be with my current experience levels with the pathy and with electronics in general. Furthermore, the swap is even more enticing for me due to the fact that I threw together some basic hardware and software to interface with Nissan Consult, and the m30's ecu supports this! One of my first questions is with regards to other ecu options. In my searching I came across some information in a forum where the VG33E ecu was mentioned in passing, which got me thinking. Correct me if I am wrong, but from what I understand, a VG33E engine into VG30E-based WD21 does not require an ecu swap. Could this mean that a VG30E could be run with a VG33E ecu? The implications of this would be not only being able to use consult, but also OBDII (been dreaming about this for years lol)... I am aware that an ecu swap will not do too much for me with stock everything else, but as a Computer Engineering student, I am much more interested in the data interfacing aspect of it (although knowing that headers,etc ontop of the ecu swap would net me more than normal is a nice bonus) and doing it as a personal challenge. Do we know if anyone has done this before? I cannot recall ever reading anything about it. Worst case scenario I do plan on doing the m30, especially as MY1PATH has provided tons more info than i would need (i'm already mpfi). Thanks for reading!

Speedbumps and potholes scare me a little in the winter, but only for fear of having to wrench on the IFS in the cold lol

..When "State of Emergency" means playtime as far as you're concerned

Hey guys, just a quick question on the stock trailing arms... I know that at some point the design was changed from a beefy looking bar to the thin little things that I have on my 95. My bushings are shot and I'm waiting on a set from AC to come in, so I'd like to know if the two styles are interchangeable, and if so, should I try and get a set of the older ones from the JY? Or will it not really be worth the hassle? I don't do too much wheeling at the moment, but I'd like to have the option when I'm finally done going through replacing old/broken stuff. So is the changed design a result of Nissan cheaping out a bit, or maybe are they weaker on purpose to bend/break before something more important does? I'm kind of clueless haha As always, all info/opinions/thoughts appreciated!

Can't really tell where that is, but when I went looking for it I found the hood release cable grommet was no longer in place. Black silicone in there and SO FAR it looks to be good enough for me! *crosses fingers*

Oooh, that doesnt look too bad at all.. (And i strongly prefer square body lines to round). Clean job on the 'shop too! Now i dont want to pull you too far off topic but.. Remove the ground clearance and back half of the cab and you get this thing.. If only they didn't slam it, might look like an alternate nissan reality lol

I think I like it... But I'm not sure.. Should look much better with an ARB bumper or something if the sort!

Do you have any recommendations for where I should bring it or how to go about doing it myself? I did apply a couple coats of chassis saver into or onto everything I could, hopefully that will be enough to slow the rust until I do get around to doing a full repair or until it comes time to move onto a new truck And ahardb0dy if sealing up the roof rack doesn't stop the leak I'll be sure to check on that. Temporarily at a standstill on all repairs, gashed up my hand pretty bad recently and waiting for the stitches to come out haha

I tried my hand at a subaru (impreza outback sport) hood scoop install this past week.. Easier said than done but I definitely learned how to use a grinder lol And thank you passengerpete for the inspiration!

Finally got around to addressing the top windshield seal. Did some sanding painting and special flowing silicone, then laid a bead of some 3m windshield sealer in place of the oem gasket thing. First car wash tests looking good, much less leakage and I think the remaining leak is a broken silicone seal from my roof rack install! I'm actually pretty excited to have a mostly leak free truck now, lol

My guess is because there is more signal being output in rear (full range of frequencies) than sub (only low freq). See if there are any settings like a cutoff frequency or bass level or something you can mess with. On the pioneers i have messed with, you can set the highest frequency that will be output in 'sub' mode which lets you mess with how hard it hits. Worst case scenario is you probably have some potentiometers on your amp that can be set and changing the fader setting might be able to increase or decrease sub volume when you have it set on rear..

Eagerly awaiting the day my rear racing slick AT's for some with more than 1/64" tread lol But got one upper ball joint (waiting for the other to come in), strut rod bushings FINALLY, and almost finished fitting an impreza outback sport hood scoop to a spare hood! Anyone notice a tiny lift obtained from replacing strut rod bushings? Maybe I'm just crazy or over tightened them?

Swapped my milemarker hubs to the family caR50, had to be some kind of record time I felt like a one man pit crew LOL And got my lego hub caps back on since the oem manual hubs fit underneath.. (SO happy I never cut into them to fit the mm's)

The most important and useful tool in your possession is pb blaster/royal purple maxfilm/etc. Come to think of it there's always a can of it stashed somewhere in your truck..

Ive never heard the noise but that sounds exactly like what happens to WD21's if you don't overfill the trans with gear oil. I guess checking the fluid and topping it off or changing it might buy you some time. Personally dont have any answers on cost for rebuild or anything sorry