tdauria

As for the water going into the cowl vents, I think that it goes out through somewhere in the wheel well... (And I'm convinced over time this is one cause of fenders rusting through) I'll definitely check by the heater or blower resistors or whatever they are, been meaning to get around to that anyway but lacked the motivation

Damn no, you're definitely right. For some reason I couldnt picture a drip path that would make sense. PO silicone'd the top windshield seal in place of an oem seal and it's rusting through a bit -__- Talk about saving me a ton of work.. Thanks!

Has anyone experienced water leaking from outside dripping down the bottom edges of the dash on the far right and left sides? We just got hit with a little downpour and when i went to get something from the pathy i saw there was water pooled near the door sills where the wiring harnesses sit on both sides of the truck (i dont have the front carpet in at the moment) I tried to find the origin of the leak but it's still pouring and after a few mins sitting upside down in the passenger seat everything was wet from the door being open or me poking around.. Gonna pop the hood when it stops and look for wet spots on the firewall then i guess tear apart the dash. Any ideas/hunches as to where my problem might be could save me a bunch of headache lol

Figured it was worth updating, basically RA shipped me one inner and one outer TRE, but i ordered two of each. Called them up and they sent out the missing parts. When I finally received the second shipment and was about to put them in, I went to double check which was which through the part #. I forget which but one of them had some random part number that i couldnt get any info on! In the end it fit and looked really similar to the other parts and came in a moog box and it fit the same. Weird stuff but nothing's blown up yet..

I dont think the fusion clear will disappoint. I used some over the spray tint on my tail lights about 2 years ago and there's still no visible uv damage or anything. Mine came out glossy but definitely not high-gloss, kind of oem-esque. I'm curious to know if yours turns slightly white immediately after drying. Can't figure out what the heck is happening but anything I paint gets a frosty finish on it that brushes off when the rest of the paint dries. Not really important but puzzling nonetheless

Noted. Thanks!

+1 for Crutchfield. And then you'll have someone to call if you have any problems with shipping damage or wiring etc :thumbsup:

Assuming that pioneer has rca preamp outputs (most do) I believe you can use this harness and avoid messing with the line out converter. http://www.amazon.com/Metra-Amplifier-Integration-995-2005-Infiniti/dp/B0007WTF5C

A bit late now but i wonder how that rustolieum 'trim and bumper paint' would have fared. Looks good so far though, real nice deep black!

Oh yes definitely worth mentioning that! haha my boots were decimated when i was done to say the least. I guess if its as stuck as mine were chances are the tre's are toast anyway. I tried hitting the knuckle with a few different BFH's but it didnt do ANYTHING

Did mine this week. They were really stuck on there and didnt come off until i borrowed a pickle fork from autozone. Had to leave something like a $10 deposit no biggie and saved so much frustration. Good luck!

In the last 4 days I finally got around to replacing front brake pads with hawk's, new rotors, outer wheel bearings, passenger side caliper, driver's side tie rod ends (rockauto forgot to ship me the other pair, should be in this week), and trimmed the front fenders (Rust Removal haha) apparently tin snips and a dremel can get you pretty far if you *act like* you know what you're doing!

Ok, thanks! Pulled the trigger on the regular moog's. Not really worth that risk when it comes down to it, and they look like they're basically indestructible and greasable.. Slowly makin' my way to a solid suspension and learning a bunch along the way

I need new tie rod ends. I was looking on rockauto and I found the parts listed on Moog's site as compatible with my 95 4WD, part numbers MOOG-ES3375 Front Outer TRE MOOG-ES3376 Front Inner TRE Now this is all well and good but I came across these on rockauto for around 11 bucks each: MOOG NIAX1795 Front Axle, Left and right, inner MOOG NIES1757 Front Axle, Left and right, Outer Does anyone know if the second pair will work for me? Or really even what the heck they are, I can't really find any substantial documentation anywhere else for them. Any help greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

Check your local pep boys for hawk pads! I got a set for my WD21 and they came out to $17!! They're doing some kind of liquidation or something.

WOAH, you chassis saver'ed the whole body?! Well at least we can be sure that there will be a npora truck reppin for the next hundred years or so, lol. I bet it'll be a good amount quieter when you're done, especially with the monstaliner :jealous: Really excited to see it when you're done, keep up the good work!

Cant really help ya but I think specifying transmission type might help (couldnt hurt) I have no idea how the autos work, maybe could it have to do with something with the trans controller? Just throwing ideas out there Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2

I have procured one whole little peg/clip/thingy. fearkobe if you want it pm me your address and i'll try and send it out in an envelope (my friends have gotten jolly ranchers through in envelopes before, so this shouldnt be a problem) if not then it will be up for grabs, i dont have a use for it

I guess the flashlight still works as a back up... Maybe I mess around with wiring stuff too often, haha. WOW I am pretty blown away with that switch setup its really ingenious!! Seems like something you'd see in MAKE Magazine or an instructable or something. Hats off to you, sir.

I've been wanting to do this for ages... Only problem is I seem to forget or not care until the next time i'm working in the dark -___- Kudos for actually taking the initiative and doing this! Looks really well done! I really want to do something like this, but with a power source that isn't dependent on the battery being connected and charged. This way you'll have light when you REALLY need it, stuck in the dark with an electrical fault or something. But seriously bravo on the execution it looks really clean and heat/dirt resistant!

Finally tackled this issue on mine a month or so ago... never caught fire somehow but here's a couple pics for the lols The ghetto rigged repair: cut street sign to fit, take care of rust with chassis saver (it has since been riveted and seam-sealed in place.) No welding necessary!

@k9sar i know that feel bro. :'(

Thanks Nefarious! And @ahardb0dy, I know exactly what you're talking about and that's what i was hoping for, but I didn't see any extra connectors inside the rear door. I didn't check behind the dash, but i recently had all the carpet/center console/seats out and the only wires running near the console where the seat belt and handbrake sensor wires. Since it's only one wire and a super simple circuit, I just went ahead and ran the wire. Others may have the wiring in the truck already... I would suspect those with power locks might, since the lock actuator needs that bracket to be in there as well. (My XE doesn't have cruise control, power locks/windows, intermittent wipers...the list goes on and on lol)

Ok, so I would first like to thank Mr. Alvarez (The_Magicians_Eye) for the incredibly helpful video that can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8NK8zcZJif8#t=393s I highly suggest checking out this video, as the rear hatch works with many of the same mechanisms. He also shows you how to work with the clips (the pink one is the same as the type in the hatch) without breaking them. What you'll need: Philips Screwdriver 10mm Socket and Ratchet or Wrench Wire Cutters Electrical Tape or Heatshrink Wire (I used 14ga, you'll need enough to run from the hatch to the center console or dash) Donor Parts First, we obviously need to gain access to the mechanism. There's 2 plastic screws at the bottom and 2 metal ones holding the plastic shroud at the top. Remove them and pull off the plastic trim pieces. (There are clips inside, a firm yet careful yank and we're in business) Your donor truck should look something like this: While your sad, popper-less truck should look something like this for comparison: Make sure you get: The mounting bracket (with the actuator attached) The 5 screws that hold the bracket on The connecting rod and white clips on both sides The electrical connector. Clip the two wires about 4-6" from the connector so you can strip and extend the leads later. Take note of how the connecting rod is oriented before removal, there is a bend in it. I forgot to and had to mess with it until it fit. Depending on how big your hands are, it may be easier to remove the latch mechanism (10mm socket) to get better access to the plastic clip you need. If you do this, make sure to unclip the end connected to the actuator first. Here's what the latch looks like out of the car so you can see where the white clip is, since its nearly impossible to see it or get at it otherwise: (same orientation as previous pics) Don't forget to grab your window popper switch and the electrical connector! (the switch looks really cool) I believe they are located on the left side of the dash for the square style interior and next to the handbrake for the 94-95 Note: The switch is supposed to be a momentary type switch that springs back to its original position when you let go. A bit of electrical contact cleaner and a couple mins of flipping the switch back and forth might unstick an old switch Now hopefully you've got all the parts you need and we can get that window poppin! IIRC, the easiest way to get the connecting rod in there was to start with removing the latch and attaching the clip while it was out of the truck. Then, carefully attach the connecting rod to the clip and feed it through the hole and leave the latch unscrewed in case you need some wiggle room. Your truck will have holes all ready for the bracket, so go ahead and try to finesse the connecting rod into its place on the actuator and screw in the bracket. Try and use the best sized driver you can for the screws, they might be a bit tough to get started from paint in the holes and IIRC the screws were relatively soft metal. Edit: Screw the window latch back in... It wont happen by itself lol When you think you've got that all done, close your window and gently pull the connecting rod toward the right and down. If your window doesn't shut and/or open when you pull on the connecting rod, you probably put it back in the wrong way. It is possible to mess around bending it until it's just right, just be careful/gentle... most of these components are somewhat delicate. For reference, here's my attempt to make a sort of x-ray/cross-section view of the mechanism for an easier understanding Note: The connecting rod does have a bend in it, and it's not quiiite to scale but you should get the general concept Now it's just down to the wiring! Strip the ends of the wire pigtails for the switch and the actuator, leaving about 1"-1.5" exposed. Connect the green with red/white wire to a body ground One of the screws for the mounting bracket turned out to be sufficient for me Extend the green with red stripe with some wire to wherever you want your switch I used 14ga. This seemed adequate since it shouldnt see too much amperage and it will only be for an instant at a time. A relay seemed excessive to me. When running wire in the hatch, it will help a lot if you have a cable snake, and if not a wire clothes hanger. My grommet was not cooperating, so i kind of went around it... When you've finished running that wire, strip the end of it and connect it with one of the stripped ends of the electrical connector for the switch. The other end of the connector should be connected to a FUSED positive source. As always, soldering connections makes for a better and more reliable connection and remember to INSULATE YOUR CONNECTIONS with electrical tape and/or heatshrink!! Connect your switch to the connector and pop that sucker in where a switch blank used to be. Do a quick double check and make sure there's nothing obvious wrong with your wire (or pray to the gods of electricity) and give'er a test! Let me know if you've got any questions/problems and I'll do my best to help y'all out!

Oh wow ok looks like I've got something to do tomorrow haha. I had no idea there would be this much interest, kind of figured almost all pathys came with it. I'll do my best to keep it un-screw-up-able ;D