tdauria

Hey everyone, I recently added the rear window opening switch to my 1995 XE. I essentially guessed my way through the whole thing, but all went without any real hangups. it's quite a simple procedure if you have a donor truck. If anyone is interested, I could attempt a wtite-up. Just let me know. I may be incorporating the power lock for the hatch as well in the near future.

Nice writeup! Wish i had this when i did mine lol for anyone wary of tampering with the stock wiring might want to check out this technique: http://tech.240sxone.com/94/s14-how-to-build-an-amp-bypassdelete-harness/ (Adding the caps mentioned by slartibartfast will keep your tweeters if you have them)

Ah, that makes sense haha Not entirely sure what I'm going to be specializing in still I'd love to get in at a company like Koenigsegg, it just looks like so much fun (although there's only a handful of those jobs in the world -___- ) But just look at how awesome this guy's job is!!

Sorry, i cant find the darn edit button but here's a pic of the clip I was talking about

@bubbley thats a really good idea. Rare earth magnets out of a hard drive or something would probably work really well. I'm making a trip back upstate to my apartment for school in the next week or so, and they have a kickass pick n pull up there. If you want i could see if any of the pathys there have the part still. Is it just the little clip type thing you need?

Congrats! Just made it this tuesday as well http://instagram.com/p/Z4DX-jkwEo/

Sadly, I have no answers to your questions but depending on how bad the crack is and how desperate you get, you MIGHT be able to get a result using this technique with beer cans and jb weld (if this crack is on the outside surface)... http://jalopnik.com/5949291/how-to-fix-your-exhaust-with-an-empty-beer-can

I'm so happy someone's finally doing this. As a computer engineering student and eager-to-learn car fanatic this is seriously the perfect combination of my interests. Best of luck and keep us updated!

Look for your 3-digit paint code on the plaque on your firewall or possibly in the door jamb. I know on my 95 it was on the firewall, not sure if it was on the door jamb as well. (It will probably be DJ2 or FL1) Duplicolor sells tons of factory paint color matched rattle cans, but if they don't have your color you can check local paint or automotive stores. I had a shop nearby mix up the paint and put it in a spray can for about $30. I would assume an automotive paint or body shop could mix up the paint for use in an air or electric powered gun, but I have no idea how much that would run you. Don't forget the clearcoat! Duplicolor generic clearcoat spray cans worked well enough for my touch-up areas.

That should jump to a point in the video where you can see what seem to be factory rear fog lights in the bumper of a WD21!

I would say more like golden And thanks Leo94, that video of the HB dying is now going to be my first response when my jeeper friends try to bash the pathy again! Those Heeps start to overheat if you so much as look at them the wrong way

Fairly certain we don't have a sensor for the seat belt, the light just goes on for a second or two when the ignition is switched to on, like it's trying to say "You should totally use the seat belt, but I couldn't care less if you actually do"

@unccpathfinder i have the same thing in my 95, no idea what the heck its for

Anyone think there's a possibility we could do a group order or something on those crazy awesome overfenders (4track) to get a slightly better price? I know nothing about setting something like that up sadly. Also, if anyone gets a shipping quote to the US, it would be kind of awesome if you could share the price with everyone

I remember seeing this one a few years ago They took it out of the frozen lake on Dirty Jobs... poor pathy (the episode is free to stream if you have amazon prime)

I know this thread is pretty old and dead but as far as I can tell it contains the most/most valuable info on the apparently hellish task of adding a tire carrier. So, I called AC and they no longer carry the mounting brackets as of 4/25/13. I got the easily removed bracket from the inside of a JY truck along with the strike plate and latch and all those goodies. I'm slowly getting a picture in my head of the install process based on these posts and a few others. Can anyone point out exactly which other parts i'm going to have to get? If I'm not mistaken the one bracket I got out was 57284.

I hope to get a couple of these done over spring break as well, the best of luck to you! Also maybe it was just because ive never worked with snaprings before, but i ended up screwing around with the damn thing for maybe a half hour before i got it out. I used snap ring pliers i picked up at lowes, possibly the problem was with the tool (?). Nevertheless persistence is key! Had to slice the gearshift boot too since i got frustrated with the tcase shifter knob, its STUCK on there... Maybe try messing around with it in advance so it isn't an issue when youre ready to start workin'

I also have the BFG All Terrain T/A KO 31x10.5" R15. Figured it was worth mentioning they feel a bit stiff for me when on crappy asphalt. Never really had much of a problem with traction in rain/snow/dirt/sand/light mud though so i guess they do what they're meant to.

First thing i thought of was Nissan's "Super Silver" i believe it cost an extra $3k on the R35 GTR, not sure if it still does. slightly ridiculous IMO

If you still haven't found a solution for this, maybe even some light sanding on the plastic lens of the leds could help diffuse the light a little better

0 gauge? what kind of setup are you running in there?

Thanks! Did a bunch of searching around and pondering since i have limited tools, space (college apartment), but mostly it's freakin' cold and the less time fussing around under the hood the better at the moment lol Quick tip: You can see I put male-female connectors on the pigtails of the socket... This way it's much easier to swap out the sockets (could only find crappy plastic ones), switch to IPF's or E-code housings Also added a dab of dielectric grease to keep the connections healthy and put a little piece of gorilla tape over each to insulate

it's not much but this is what mine looks like. I used 3-conductor, 12ga underground feeder wire from lowe's. Insulation is nice and thick and the install comes out really clean. http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/iTHINKiHAVE_add/NPORA/99C2DBDC-D4C3-47B3-96D6-86F163E2B331-1510-0000003E2A793BED_zps856dfe5b.jpg

Has anyone tried applying a clear vinyl film after sanding? That way it would get beat up instead of the plastic (which would hopefully be sealed from the elements, preventing most oxidation) Never tried it but it sounds like it might work...

Heres the best pic i could grab of mine with my phone http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q6/iTHINKiHAVE_add/NPORA/c1573d9460ce31bf0b8ca383382282f2_zpsaf0a9a34.jpg Hopefully this isnt poor placement...please inform me if it is but i havent had any problems with the wire here i just took note of where the wire would go through the firewall, pulled it out a bit and wrapped it in a few layers of electrical tape to kind of seal any gaps