William

That makes sense B. I might have faulty injector "O Rings" (or even Injector). I am slowly ruling out the theories of - Faulty STARTER RELAY - Faulty ECU and "No" I do not have the habit of adding Fuel ADDITIVES to the tank and almost always fill it with regular 91 OCTANE at the station. Unfortunately, IIRC, my pathy's previous owner sold me that car many years ago with a VG30E engine that had upgraded injectors from a VG33E. I don't know why this was done but this is what I was told. Again IIRC! In that case, Should I be buying replacement VG33E Injector O-rings or VG30E O-rings? Are they different? Do you know the OEM part number for these O-rings to look for them online? William

I mean what controls the in-flow of Fuel into the Engine? It must be the Injectors. Right? If so, and my Injectors (or at least one of them) are/is somehow stuck on OPEN, could this lead to the symptoms I am having. A friend suggested a faulty ECU believing the ECU is not OPENING and CLOSING the injectors properly which is causing the engine to flood with Fuel and eventually SHUTTING DOWN while driving or refuse to START/CRANK in the first place. I checked the ECU by running the DIAGNOSTIC switch on its back. It seems to be functional. Gave me no new errors (except the old "34" which is related to the KNOCK SENSOR. I've always had this error). William

Anyone knows the OEM Part Number for the STARTER RELAY to order it online please? If it's not the STARTER RELAY, what could be causing the engine to leak Fuel from the Air Filter side when parked downhill? William

Ok agreed. But why was the engine leaking Fuel when parked downhill? And why was the engine flooding with fuel? These don't seem to be "starter-relay" issues? I could be wrong. Please explain

Hi guys, BACKGROUND My car has been parked for few months as I don't use it much and I travel a lot. When I tried to start the car, it didn't. After ruling-out the battery, I first figured the SPARK PLUGS are dead so I replaced them with brand new ones from NJK (Iridium) which did not help either. I next discovered that the tank was bone-dry so I manually filled it from a can and it did start and I used it for few days in a row. THE PROBLEM AT HAND NOW: The week after, I parked the car downhill near my home. It was a bit of a steep downhill but I didn't think much about it at the time. a) The next morning, I tried turning the car ON but it didn't even CRANK. I tried many times, no CRANK what so ever . I checked the battery and used cables to jump-start it from my daily-driver but it was not the battery as well. I started smelling FUEL so I checked underneath the car, and to my complete surprise, the car was slowly by steadily dripping FUEL from near the airflow filter onto the asphalt (see the arrow): c) After many failed attempts to start the car or even CRANK it somehow, I figured the engine must be flooded with Fuel which is preventing the spark plugs from igniting somehow. So I removed the fuel intake pipe feeding the engine, bent-it well and zip-tied it. I next, removed spark plugs #2 and #4 (I believe. They were the nearest to my right-side and the easiest to remove) and left those spark plug engine opening OPEN!! d) Immediately, upon doing that, the pathy CRANKED and fuel started flying from the two open spark plugs holes. I CRANKED it few times until I felt that the quantity of fuel flying out of the holes was getting less and less each time. e) I then put back the SPARK PLUGS back into the engine and connected the wires. I started the engine (WITHOUT re-connecting the Fuel intake pipe to the engine), and the engine ran just fine for like 5 minutes until it ran out of fuel. During that time, I managed to pull the car out of that steep parking spot into a more level parking position. The problem now is if I connect the intake fuel pipe into the engine, the car cranks, starts, and runs just fine for like few minutes before the engine SHUTS DOWN and floods with fuel and will not CRANK again without repeating the same process above over-and-over again: Cutting the fuel intake Removing a spark plug Crank it a few times to relief the engine from the excess fuel inside of it re-install the spark plug and wire start the car I have no clue as to why this is happening and how to solve it neatly without damaging the engine any further as I am pretty sure the steps I followed above are not the healthiest or safest but I was stuck and had to improvise Please let me know what you guys think. I am clueless William

Also will it matter if the one on eBay was not made specifically for the WD21 with VG30E engines?

Vs the one sold on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221430363111?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Guys. Been looking for a Snorkle to add to my Pathy. I like the one made by SAFARI SNORKLE (SS700HF) for our WD21. However, it's too darn expensive. Been looking on eBay for alternatives and found few sold in the UK willing to ship across the pond for nearly half the price of the SAFARI (after S&H). Will there be a major differences in the material, finish and build qualities between the two? They claim to be made of LLDPE (PolyEthylene) and not Fiber Glass. William

Hi Guys, I need to change my "Turn Signal Headlight Cruise Control Switch" and I am puzzled between 2 ebay offerings: - Genuine OEM Nissam Part that is USED from a salvaged/wreck WD21 that is rated as GOOD USED WORKING but most likely with no guarantee/warranty. versus: - An AFTER MARKET part that is BRAND NEW (most likely from China or Korea) that comes with a limited 2-years warranty. Both at the same price. What do guys think? Help me decide William

It looks really nice [emoji106]. That front tire seems to be "rubbing" on you fender when fully turn the steering wheel.

I got 404 ERROR when I followed your link above. Can you state the name of the website to google-it please? William

Thank you so much as always guys (esp. MY1PATH) for the support. So in conclusion. It seems like a safe purchase to serve as a backup ECU in case my OEM ECU got fried or needed replacement for any reason. Right? William

Interesting! So in case you did not find the rest of this chart, do you think it is safe to swap: MECM-V981 (1) 1X17 for MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29 It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference? William

Perfect [emoji106] I found the exact same ECU model on eBay. It matches the model of my ECU except for the last 4 suffixed alphanumerics as follows: Mine is: MECM-V981 (1) 1X17 Ebay: MECM-V981 (1) 1Y29 It comes from a 93 WD21 A/T 4x2. Whereas, mine is a 4x4, does it make a difference? Note: they both have a big orange "45" sticker on top. Is there a website that explains what all these numbers mean? William Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you as always for the clarification [emoji106]. Well noted dude As to my other question. If I'm in the market on eBay for a BACKUP ECU to keep aside for future use or to re-program it once I swap the engines, and upgrade the CAMS ... Will any WD21 ECU work for my car as long as the donor is from a WD21 with A/T transmission? William

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No. The other way around . I'm putting a VG33E into my 1992 WD21. My existing ECU is the MECM-V981. I'm just asking if I need to replace it with a VG33E-compatible ECU or whether my old one will work just fine? I'm also in the market (ebay) for a backup ECU. there are so many on eBay and was wondering if all WD21 ECU are compatible or I need to look for that exact model (MECM-V981) to buy as a backup to my existing ECU? William

BTW, my 1992 ECU is: MECM-V981. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Guys. While on the same topic. I'm in the process of swapping my VG30E into a VG33E. Should I be worried about the ECU? Should I swap it as well into a compatible year model with the new engine? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 Me too. With pictures if possible

Hi Tugsten, So how many BULBS have you used for this entire cluster setup? Are they all 194 or NEO3 bulbs? Is that the "Cool White" color? William

Check with Rob (Alkorahil) he is one of the most active OEM Nissan Parts vendors on this forum. I've dealt with him numerous times and he is amazing (5*). Send him a PM and ask him for the flexi hose. If that part is available anywhere on the planet, I am sure he will get it for you. Otherwise, your best bet would be a Junk Yard donor or a "similar hose" and a bit of a retro-fit job from a truck with a similar part like B suggested. Good Luck William

Hi Teixeira, Can you please show me a picture of the Blue one you received. I have a Blue interior trim color and I would like to see how they look like installed please. William

Hi. I did some research and came across the following parts from an R50: - 96400-1W610 (driver side) - 96401-1W610 (passenger side) The objective is to retrofit these in my 1992 since mine did not come with mirrors or lamps on either side. Q: Will I be able to retrofit them in my 1992? This is how my 1992 Visors look like: William