William

How about the recent PF Engines: 2001-present Nissan VK engine — 4.5/5.0/5.6 L — VK45DE, VK45DD, VK50VE, VK56DE, VK56VD The specs are Nice! Or the recent XTERRA's engines. They are powerful: Variable Valve Timing fitted 4.0 L VQ40DE engine, it produces 265 hp (198 kW) Would they fit? Will the wiring to the new ECU be a nightmare? William

Purenissan.com don't seem to have anything related to "Pan Hard" 4x4parts advertises the following bushings for the Rear Pan Hard: Pathfinder Rear Pan Hard Rod Bushings So what are these Pan Hard Drop Brackets? What are used for? Rear or Front? William

Well I have a 3" SL + 3" BL. Where can I get one? How much does it cost? William

Yup!

Thank you for the reply. Really very informative as always . I fully agree about "mechanic"/mechanic definition. Been there myself! First, I am not very TECHY with mechanical terms but I am fast learner. I may have confused some terms above: - The broken bolts are for the TRANSMISSION itself (not the transfer case). I am not sure, but they may be the ones that hold the transmission to the engine. There is like a dozen of those all around. Maybe that's why the mechanic did not feel guilty about 3 broken ones out of so many :S - The solenoids were changed from inside the Transmission (and not the Transfer case). I saw the old ones (I believe 5 of them, if my memory serves me well) and I bought the replacements from the local dealer. I remember very well ordering them for my 1992 PF XE. The dealer at that time mentioned that Nissan came up with a new design for these solenoids replacing the ones that came from factory and proved to be somewhat faulty/unreliable. - I agree about the Torque Converter. What ever he did to it, did not make it better. I remember he took it out and gave it to a specialist who refurbished it using some sort of a rotational balancer/trimmer thingy! I guess I am in need for a new Torque Converter and a way to replace those bolts that were broken. William

Well, the only reason I leave my OD OFF is due to the annoying vibration I go through at around 80K/H. Before that problem, I used to keep it ON all the time. OMG. What you said rings a bell!! You are probably 100% on the money. I had my TORQUE CONVERTER re-furbished a few years ago by a mechanic. That same mechanic took the whole Transfer case apart and installed at that time a new set of SOLENOIDS. I did notice after that at least 2 (or 3) TC bolts/studs were broken off (probably were too rusty and got broken off under pressure). That mechanic never mentioned this to me at the time which is why I never returned to his shop. I only discovered it a month later when I took the car for a bath at the station and examined it from below while lifted. Could it be just a bad "refurbishment" of the TORQUE CONVERTER or the broken TC bolts? William

What is it good for? And where can it be sourced? William

I believe my doors were not pre-wired by NISSAN for the Power Windows. The rubber sleeve seems only to run the Speaker cables back to the radio. So in addition to the Power Window Regular + Motor what else do I need? William

No I haven't. I do plan to take the entire DRIVE SHAFT out for an alignment anyway. Will check them then. However, why do the car SHAKE/VIBRATE around the ~80KM/Hr speed "only" when the OD is "ON". If the OD is "OFF", the car never shakes, but again the RPM keeps going up and I cannot transfer into the 4th gear. Does that mean it is a mechanical problem or electronic? William

I might be slightly OFF on the dimensions I mentioned above (2"). I'll take a couple of photos with the wheel out with dimensions and show you. Maybe you can see a problem that I don't see in there. That will have to wait till I return home of course BTW, what is PAN HARD BAR DROP BRACKET? Is that a stock element or an aftermarket? William

That resembles my case to a great extent. It is only a brief shaking of the whole car at that ~80KM/Hr speed when the OD is ON. My Spark Plugs were recently replaced along with all of the 6 Plug wires. It did not help! What do you mean by Cap/Rotor? Could it be the TORQUE CONVERTER like RJSquirrel suggested? William

No it does not get worse. It is always the same sudden brief Vibration/Shaking when I accelerate/brake around the ~80KM/Hr speed while the OverDrive is "ON". Unfortunately, I don't have a picture with me. As I mentioned I am traveling and the car is still back home William

That makes sense. If it only happens when the OD is in the ON position and around ~the 80KM range, then it is not the Propeller Shaft. Maybe it is the Torque Converter!! How can I tell? Last I changed the Transmission Oil + Filter was few years ago. But since I don't drive the Pathy a lot (I am always traveling) so in KM-wise, I would say, since 10,000-15,000 KM. William

Well during the BL, I installed a set of brand new RANCHO 9000X shocks: * Rancho RS999322 Shock (Front) * Rancho RS999112 Shock (Rear) The UCA's lower anchor is like ~2 inches away from the factory bump stop (which I plan to remove and replace with a low profile one from Energy Suspensions). I don't believe I am hitting the front bump stops while driving (Maybe if I am fast over speed bumps or pavement holes). The bad driving quality I am experiencing is a normal cruising speeds on the highway. the car does not feel very "safe". William

For a long time now, my Pathy vibrates for a sudden around the ~80km/h range ONLY when the Overdrive is ON. The vibration shakes the whole car and can be felt anywhere you're seated. It ONLY happens when the Overdrive is ON and for a fraction of a second around the ~80KM/H speed range. To illustrate more, - I am cruising on the highway and my RPM starts to get higher - I engage the OD to shift into a higher gear, speed up and lower my RPM - As long as I am speeding above ~80KM/H I am good - I would then press the brakes lowering my speed below ~80 (OD still ON) - The moment I press the accelerator pedal trying to elevate my speed, the car shakes/vibrates for a like a second, engages the higher gear and then picks-up the speed and back to normal. => If I play with "slight Brake"/"slight Accelerate" around the ~80KM range with the OD in the ON position, the car vibrates/shakes every time I lay my foot on the accelerator. I reasearched the FSM and came across this High Speed Vibration notice: Could my problem be in the Propeller Shaft? William

Another fantasy of mine: "True Dual Exhaust" with a 3" or 2.5" Pipe What are your recommendations? Is there a risk running the 2nd pipe too close to the RIGHT of the Fuel Tank? The below is only a 1st trial layout for the route of the 2nd pipe. I probably need to bring that muffler closer to the front to have more maneuverability in routing the 2 final exhaust pipes: William

I noticed recently (after the BL) that both of my REAR BUMP STOPS are completely missing!!! (could be the previous owner's fault!!) Should I replace them with OEM ones? Should I just sleep on it? How about the ones from ENERGY SUSPENSIONS below. Any fit our application for the Rear End? William

So many upgrade projects. I know I am planning to upgrade my MANUAL windows into POWER ones. Has anyone done it? Is there a walk-through or guide on how to do it (with pics hopefully)? Can the existing "DOOR ARMREST" be used to hold the power controls: William

Yes. I believe this is what he was referring to. Thx for the clarification Right now, I am running the stock R200A (Front) and H233B (Rear). My current gear ratio is: 4.625 What would be the benefits of increasing the Gear Ratio for the front and rear by installing new RING & PINIONS? The following options are available on ruggedrocksoffroad.com * 5.143 Front R200A Ring and Pinion Gears $496.95 * 4.875 Rear H233B Ring and Pinion Gears $496.95 * 5.143 Rear H233B Ring and Pinion Gears $496.95 * 5.571 Rear H233B Ring and Pinion Gears $496.95 * 5.857 Rear H233B Ring and Pinion Gears $496.95 Do I need to match the front and rear Ring & Pinion gear ratio? William

Well actually, The COILS are brand new (from 4x4Parts) providing the rear lift. The front end has been recently completely re-vamped with brand new RED bushings from ENERGY SUSPENSIONS (Sway Bar Links, Sway Bar Bushings, UCA Bushings, LCA Bushings, ...) The Rear Bushings are on my to-do list. I felt that the DUAL shocks will give me a softer ride. Right now the ride is kinda rough, not very stable on the Highway, and needs a lot of concentration to keep it steady. Probably due to the BIG BFG 33x12.5R15 running on the ultra WIDE MT 15x10!

BTW, in case you don't need them and they are still new and in good condition, I could take them off your hand and send a PAYPAL payment. How about it?

Can you post their OEM part numbers?

Soon after the BL, I took out the 3 screws holding the Transfer Gear Control Lever to a welder shop. He heated and straightened the short piece of metal just below the black part. This gave me some of the lost length/angle after the BL and I was able to shift all the way down into 4LOW again. However, I noticed that my BOOTS were all worn out and in desperate need for replacement (in RED below): Do you anyone sourcing these online? William

I believe my current AXLE RATIO is stock at nearly 4.66 (I believe). What would the 4.9 give me in return? More Power? How to do that? William

Actually it has around ~110,000 KM (not Miles even). The engine is in a great condition. Never had a problem with it. I only replaced the 3.0 Injectors a year back with the ones from a 3.3 engine (VG33E) while in the process of doing some injector cleaning. I thought maybe the 3.3 injectors will give me a little more power but I was wrong. It did not help at all. The only reason I am considering swapping it is due to the lack of power after the S&B lift+33" tires. There is obviously many routes to the swap with many alternatives and options. Someone told me that the new engine has to be a HORIZONTAL block and cannot be a VERTICAL one to match the layout of the current VG30E. Is that true? How do I tell which one is which? William