PATHRIDER Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) On the motor mount part its probably hitting on that plate around it,...just bend it with a crescent wrench and bend it back when done Edited March 29, 2010 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 one of the pipes is hitting though I'm not sure which one. It was dark and rainy and I was shoving the damned thing up from underneath. I thought I would at least get it in place and hold it with a couple bolts just to check the crossover fitment but it wouldn't go flat against the head due to the motor mount. ****** weather today and tomorrow so I will get more info and possibly a pic later in the week. I will also have the time to try to figure out exactly how it is interfering. My main question here was if my motor mount was somehow different than others who have installed these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I don't think your motor mount is any different, and I don't remember having to massage mine to get the headers in. I did, however, have the luxury of working through the wheel well due to my body lift. Maybe try working from the engine bay once you have the header in the general vicinity, to get a different angle on things. Maybe you'll be able to work the header around the body mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTXaudioSYSTM Posted March 30, 2010 Share Posted March 30, 2010 What worked for me: I'm not sure if you have access to a welder, but if so, hold a nut over the stud, as centered as possible. Weld the nut to the broken off piece of stud. Then throw a socket on the nut and crank the stud out. If no welder, B seems to have you sorted out ive tried that on my firebird. hopefully he has better luck then i did. i gave up on the studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 nice weather is on the way.... Back under the truck tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I broke a Snap On extractor on the rear passenger stud on mine. Tried drilling it for an hour and got nowhere. I just installed the headers without that stud. No leaks so far... As for the engine mount, mine had no clearance issues either. Remember to get the headers loose on the heads and fit the crossover, if they are tight you'll fight the crossover for fitment. Mine slid right together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 I 2-bolted the passenger side on to check to see how bad it would be to NOT install my oil filter relo. Kinda tight in there. Anyway... with the one header in place, I loose-fitted the crossover to see what all the fuss was about with respect to haveing an auto tranny. Seems like there will be plenty of room but I won't really know until I get the drivers side on. Tomorrow..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 (edited) The result of grinding, drilling, praying and cussing... new pressure switch and filter relo adapter. Not sure if the threads were just tight or if I had a mismatch british to english thread count but I wrenched it on and got it tight to the block. With each turn, I expected to hear a "crack" but it survived. Will check for leaks later today. Bracket I made from an old galvanized 4x4 post holder. Had to cut the top off the connector holder to make it fit inside but it adds a little support to the bracket. A little constructive aluminum bending... viola'... a drip tray to keep the oil off my connectors when I change the filters Edited April 5, 2010 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 (edited) Getting ready for header installation. Not much room to work through the wheel well on the passenger side. Discovered that the leftmost stud had been replaced with a larger one at some point. This was a replacement engine so I had nothing to do with it. Since the thread was now different and my bolts wouldn't fit, I decided to put the stud back. It bigger than the stock ones so I thought it would be strong enough. Unfortunately, as I tightened the bolt on it and tried to go to the proper torque, I felt it start to strip in the aluminum head so I stopped and will just cross my fingers and hope it's ok as is. final location of relo kit. Edited April 5, 2010 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 finishing touches... I used one of the spare holes in each of the heads to run in a stud from the exhaust manifold. Threaded on a nut, bored out the ground wire connector so they would fit on the studs then locked it onto the studs with another nut. I now have both ground connectors reattached to the heads. I filled the crankcase and added some Lucas additive (about 5 qts total due to the added hoses and filter). When I fired up the engine, it roared to life but started dripping oil from the adapter plate for the relo kit that was on the block. Damnit. The only way to get at it to tighten it was to pull the starter (good thing I modified it to come out easy). I got another 1/8 to 1/4 turn on it, replaced the starter and cranked it up again. No leaks. I ran it to temperature and watched the smoke billow out from under the hood. Stickers, PB Blaster and paint all getting hot and burning off the headers. I'm concerned that the oil filter hoses are too close to the header so I may fashion a heat shield or use an insulative wrap. It runs a little rough but I think that is due to the O2 sensor being bombarded with burning paint fumes and such from the new install. A couple days and she should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I'm glad you finally got it all together, sounds like a PITA. If you do wind up with a stripped hole, you can simply heli-coil (my favorite) or thread-sert or whatever with long lasting results. Did you add Permatex to the head gaskets to help with the seal? Odds are that it is running rough due to the difference in exhaust flow and perhaps temperature. You may want to unplug the ECU to reset it. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 I sprayed the gaskets with a hi-tack, hi-temp permatex spray to hiold it all in place and help seal it. Will a battery disconnect perform the same function ans an ECU unplug? I know my radio has a 'memory' when it gets unplugged but did not know if the ECU does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Yes, generally it will. Some people leave it unhooked for hours, but apparently stepping on the brake, turning on a light, etc will do the same thing. I have never heard anyone talk about a battery in the ECU... Permatex spray?? I haven't seen that but it sounds handy and Permatex makes good product. Should work fine. I like the drip pan with the catch slots though. My single filter is mounted in the same place, but I just unbolt the base to get the filter vertical to remove it. I use the Fram PH8a size filter, it's about twice the size of the stock unit. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 permatex spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrik Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Hmm. are those headers coated with some type of thermal-barrier coating? Did you consider wrapping them with thermal wrap? -on the other hand, oil hose is cheaper than new headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 nice filter setup! You are going to love not having to d!ck around with the filter when you change your oil anymore. One other thing you might be interested in is a Fram Sure-drain. That with the remote filter makes oil changes literally take 10 minutes. I'm not sure if you can still buy the Sure drains anymore. I found mine on eBay. They are very handy for folks that have skidplates. Glad to see you got the old stud out, that would be a nightmare indeed. Reminds me of when I broke a sparkplug off in the head and I was crossing my fingers when using the extractor to get the rest of it out. My filter feed and return lines are about 2" from the header. The heat hasn't affected the hoses, but they are starting to dry out and crack after being on there for the last few years. Keep an eye on your high pressure fuel line. It also gets pretty close to the header. I think that one would do more damage if it happened to burst. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram-Autolite/Fram-Sure-Drain-Oil-Change-System/750898/10002/-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Keep an eye on your high pressure fuel line. It also gets pretty close to the header. I think that one would do more damage if it happened to burst. I took one of my heat shields from my manifolds and slapped it over the fuel line where it gets close. I have never heard of anyone having an issue, but I didn't want to be the first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 As for the header wrap, I have heard a lot of horror stories about it. From causing fires, causing weld failures, rust promotion and leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Nice work Scott Couple points to consider on the oil relo. I have the same one and have two recommendations. replace the pivoting hose adapters with solid ones, a bit more of a PITA to install the hoses that way, but they will not leak later on. (Although it looks like you may have already done that) Take some fine grit paper and a block and smooth out the filter gasket mating surfaces on the relo. I had some leaking problems until I did that. Yours does not look as rough as mine did, but I cannot be completely sure by the pics. Mine had some serious grooves from rough/poor machining at the factory. All those grooves end up being channels for the oil to flow through. If you find it leaks then, smooth them out with a little elbow grease and that should solve the problem. One other thing you might be interested in is a Fram Sure-drain. That with the remote filter makes oil changes literally take 10 minutes. I'm not sure if you can still buy the Sure drains anymore. I found mine on eBay. They are very handy for folks that have skidplates. http://www.jegs.com/...750898/10002/-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 Good point about smoothing the sealing surface, mine didn't have any bad turning marks on it but it did have a few gouges and raised spots. I just hit mine with a smooth file and it was good enough. About the leaking swivel fittings, yeah, they suck... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20577&view=&hl=%22oil%20filter%20relocation%22&fromsearch=1 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 still no leaks and running a little better (though all my radio stations are now gone). It still smells of burning paint and I need to run it at full temp for a few runs back and forth to work before that'll stop. I want to shield the oil and fuel lines before I do that though. Next up... a new pair of BFG AT TA/KO's to replace the racing slicks I currently have on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 For anyone who is dealing with broken Bolts. These are the SHIZIT! I had no problems removing my 3 broken studs with these. they drill reverse and once you drill into the bolt far enough you turn the extractor on the bit to remove. They are truly AWESOME. I have also removed other broken studs with ease. My antenna just snapped off flush on my pathfinder so I will be trying them out on it as well. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00953153000P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhornet Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 nissan sells a smaller oil filter that will screw right on by the headers my local dealer only sells like 4 oils filters for all there vehicles i just buy the smaller 3.3l oil filters for my 95 pathy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I have the same trans dapt dual filter relocation kit, had it in my 87 hardbody but I had their crappy braided SS hoses (sucked) and I bought some AN adapter fittings from Earls I think it was, still have the whole kit minus the hoses. I had my filter mount installed below the pass. door with the filters sitting as yours are, with the body lift the filters were above the frame close to the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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